Engine Removal - In Over My Head

[theomhd]

I started the process of pulling the engine today.

I have pretty much gutted the passenger side of the engine:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I also pulled the radiator and disconnected the throttle cables.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The radiator has a pretty thick layer of oil along the bottom 1/3 of the fins from the engine leaking oil.

I think next I'll be pulling the power steering pieces, AC, alternator, the vacuum lines and electrical on the drivers side of the bay, and then engine mounts and drive axles last before the engine can be lifted out.

I have never gone this deep into a car before so I'll be the first to admit I'm in way over my head and winging it as usual, but I'm having fun so hopefully all goes well

I'm going to replace the water pump, all the belts, all the vacuum hoses, the lifters, oil pan and oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket while I have the engine out.

Any suggestions before I dig into it more this afternoon as far as plan of attack and items I should replace/check while I've got it out?

Wish me luck!

 

[68442]

The biggest things are having a good manual or diagram of things and #1 is to tag and bag....I've winged it a few times and of course I end up losing some important bolts.

 

[Talipse96]

What are you pulling the engine for?
If you haven't already make sure you lable the wire harness and the sensors. That way its as easy as finding the number and pluging it back in. After a while you'll learn what part of the harness goes where.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

Its not as bad as you think when starting out initially.

IMO, its much less fun putting it back in. Just label/diagram everything well. I like to seperate nuts and bolts for specific things into labeled ziploc baggies. It keeps them clear of rust and allows me to have a clear idea of where they go.

While the engine was out, I HIGHLY suggest checking/replacing the rod bearings as well as the head gasket.)

 

[vannaksgsx]

+ 1 on the labelled bags for your nuts & bolts.

1. Take lots of pictures- if you're new at this and think you'll remember what is connected to what, you wont. By the time you're done pulling that thing out, you'll have forgotten already.

2. Get yourself a factory service manual if you havent already. Research proper removal procedures. You'll find that sometimes when overhauling, there are certain parts that can stay on the block, that you can remove later. But if you're doing a complete rebuild, that might not matter...

3. Before posting a thread for an issue you have, see if someone has ran into the same problem first and has already posted. Chances are, your question has already been answered.

4. Send me a list of parts you're not using anymore

 

[theomhd]

The biggest things are having a good manual or diagram of things and #1 is to tag and bag....I've winged it a few times and of course I end up losing some important bolts.

So far I have been putting all of the bolts into little plastic containers with a scrap piece of paper describing where it came from. (Radiator Brackets, Hood Brackets)

As far as having a diagram, I'm going to need to pull one up for the vacuum lines. I took a bunch of pictures of the hose lay out, but I'm pretty sure there are a lot of hoses not captured in my pictures; That may end up being a problem.

What are you pulling the engine for?
If you haven't already make sure you lable the wire harness and the sensors. That way its as easy as finding the number and pluging it back in. After a while you'll learn what part of the harness goes where.

The support bracket that attaches to the drivers side drive axle and bolts into the back of the engine block is giving me some problems. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine, both of them broke off about 1/4" into the block. It kinda looks like someone over torqued them and then they snapped.

Its not as bad as you think when starting out initially.

IMO, its much less fun putting it back in. Just label/diagram everything well. I like to seperate nuts and bolts for specific things into labeled ziploc baggies. It keeps them clear of rust and allows me to have a clear idea of where they go.

While the engine was out, I HIGHLY suggest checking/replacing the rod bearings as well as the head gasket.)

I have no idea how to check the rod bearings (learning as I go obviously). I'll check it out in the manual.


Thanks for the tips so far everyone. I'll post an update tuesday night after round two.

 

[theomhd]

+ 1 on the labelled bags for your nuts & bolts.

1. Take lots of pictures- if you're new at this and think you'll remember what is connected to what, you wont. By the time you're done pulling that thing out, you'll have forgotten already.

2. Get yourself a factory service manual if you havent already. Research proper removal procedures. You'll find that sometimes when overhauling, there are certain parts that can stay on the block, that you can remove later. But if you're doing a complete rebuild, that might not matter...

3. Before posting a thread for an issue you have, see if someone has ran into the same problem first and has already posted. Chances are, your question has already been answered.

4. Send me a list of parts you're not using anymore

I have the factory service manual on the computer. In the past I have been looking at it and printing what I need. I haven't been able to find any info in the manual about pulling the engine, am I just missing it?

Don't even say that, hopefully I don't have ANY left over parts haha!

 

[Talipse96]

I had my bolts fail and ended up destroying a CV boot.
They were easy to drill, extract and put new bolts in. I had some issues with them backing out, so I took them out and used thread lock on them.

+1 on the little bags. I had a shoe box full of labled bags.

 

[SlowChild3]

Was cake for me besides getting the axles out. Make notes of bolt length also just to make it more simple on reinstall.

Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk

 

[19Eclipse90]

Removing Engine from the Car

I would replace the rear main seal and clutch components if you are unaware of when they were last done or their condition looks questionable. I would certainly replace every single coolant hose in the engine bay and the hose clamps; the originals are garbage after so long. Power steering hoses might not be a bad idea either, especially while you've got the engine out.

There are a couple different ways I keep nuts and bolts straight when I disassemble any part of an engine. The first is to put the nut or bolt back where I got if from as soon as the part is removed and as long as it does not get in the way of anything else. The second is diagramming:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

edit: If you are smart about it, you realize you want to punch smaller holes in the cardboard then what your bolts are to keep them from sliding out or going missing.

All it takes is a little common sense and recollection to determine where everything goes; manuals don't hurt either. Good luck!

 

[SlowChild3]

Nice I like the cardboard idea.

Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk

 

[rommel rojasgsx]

I pulled my 1st engine out a couple of weeks ago. and zip lock bags and a sharpie and manual were my best friends. also made a carboard drawing of the front case and stuck the bolts on it.. couple of things keep a jack under ## car when u ready to lift. chances are its gona take u a couple of tries. raise it an an angle. tranny side lower. and u mention new oil pan gasket. dont use a gasket

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Drop the engine out of the bottom. Its alot easier.

 

[project98dsm]

+1 on not using a gasket for the oil pan...they leak. I don't know from personal experience because I've never used one. But I do know that Mitsu uses rtv as a gasket between the oil pan and block, and that's what I've used and never had an issue.

 

[yepes281]

Dont worry man, its not that hard, i pulled mine all by myself.

It just looks overwhelming but its really not.

Good luck brotha

 

[Memphetic]

I don't bother labeling. I thread the bolts back into where they go, or the nuts back onto their threads. Then, two weeks from now, you won't be wondering what "battery ground bolt to trans" means.

 

[Boomdeeze]

"battery ground bolt to trans"

Makes sense to me

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I didn't read everyone else's tips so I'm sorry if I'm repeating something but I have done this many times, usually all by myself. First off, It's not that bad. You can do it. A couple of quick tips:

Start spraying the axle nuts with penetrating lubricant now, they can be a pain. A 4' cheater bar should do the trick though. Also it's a good idea to drain the transmission before pulling the axles or you will make a big mess.

Make sure all your wires are disconnected and I usually move the whole harness over the passenger side fender, this will keep them out of your way.

When you go to lift it, run the chain from the mount by the exhaust manifold/power steering pump to the mount by the CAS/throttle body. Put your hook closer to the manifold side so the engine comes up at an angle.

I have a bunch of pictures in my blog from when I pulled my engine last. They should help you out. If there is anything else that you need, let me know.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Here is what I was talking about. Bring it up at an angle, keep the wire harness out of the way.

Hope this helps!

 

[saechao04]

When I did my rebuild I labeled everything and I didn't get around to rebuilding it til 8 months later. It was very confusing .

 

[knochgoon24]

I took tons and tons of photos when I pulled mine. I labeled every electrical connector (male and female side) with a number. Every hose connection was labeled, but with a letter. Then everything was written down on paper.

All the bolts were stuck in ziploc bags with diagrams drawn on them if bolt lengths differed. I also did the cardboard trick on some of the more complicated bolt layouts.

It made reassembly so easy that even my girlfriend was comfortable helping out without asking me a million questions.


While the engine is out, you may as well replace every gasket and seal. Also replace all the timing components. It's suggested to replace the water and oil pumps if you have the funds.

Now is also a good chance to scrub down the engine bay and fix any rust you see. Get rid of any rust, grease, and corrosion you can.

If you choose to paint the transmission and engine block, I suggest not painting the transmission black. No matter how much stuff I remove from that side of the engine bay, it seems that it's still really crowded and messy. A high temp aluminum color seems to be the best choice.

 

[EclipticalGS]

bead blast and clear coat the tranny.

 

[Tanro]

Removing Engine from the Car

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I do that every time.

 

[kawgomoo]

bead blast and clear coat the tranny.

CAREFUL!!! Bead blasting anything that will ever have bearings in it. That shit gets everywhere, and youd be amazed how many engines/trannies get assembled with little pockets of blast media stuck in them.


If you want to bead blast engine parts, i recomend using a pressure pot blaster and granular dish or laundry soap. The soap is water soluable, so you dont have to worry about it destroying anything.

Also the soap has the correct PH so once you rinse it away, the bare metal wont corrode/oxidize like it is prone too from baking soda blasting.

 

[EclipticalGS]

only thing you have to worry about is to not directly blast inside the bell or anywhere near the input shaft, and for fwd people like me jsut plug the axle seals with a couple of paper towels or rubber seals, my tranny has been strong, my valve cover i did on the other hand, well you know sand in the baffles

 

[moparismylife]

Same here chilton book was my savior aswell as alldata but i will say if you have awd my chilton book never said anything about the carrier bearing....just a thought.