1G Engine rebuild

[volcakid8787]

I am doing my first rebuild starting next month. I have all the parts necessary for it. I have redone the entire engine pretty much...bored, honed, pistons, rods, crank polished and tested blah blah blah. Anyways, I am wondering if any has any advice on my first rebuild. (things to remember and such)

 

[bonecollector]

Is this going to be a stock build or are you using performance parts?


Use a good sealant.
Measure clearances
TQ everything to specification.
Pay close attention to detail.

There is actually quite a bit to look out for when assembling a 4G63T the best thing to do is, READ the factory service manual, and pay close attention to the "service points of reassembly" maybe go through and High-light them if necessary.

92-94ECB


The cylinder head bolts on a 94 7 bolt (If that is the engine you're using) are "TQ to yeild" It is also recommended you replaced and not reused that style head bolt.

If you using ARP bolts those will have a specific TQ that is determined by the type of lube you apply to the threads. The ARP's are NOT TQ to yield

When installing the oil pan there are two (M6x12) bolts that are shorter then the rest, make sure those go in the proper location or it will cost you your timing belt/engine.

The left engine support bracket, The one above the "Front case" (oil pump housing) there is a bolt that requires sealant to be applied or there will be a oil mess all over your new timing belt.

Bleed you lifters down prior to installation or your valves will hit the pistons and bend

I'm sure others will add and the list will go on....

 

[KuckFatrina]

What he said ^ plus take your time. When people rush they make mistakes. Also get a good quality torque wrench.

 

[lee98talon]

Watch Jafromoblie on YouTube. Lol.

 

[volcakid8787]

I'm going to use performance parts...all the replies appreciated! A question I have about the service manual is where could I find a good one? I've heard about them having them online but I have since been unable to find one. I ordered one and have received it. I came with an electrical manual separate. I'm not sure if this is the best one or if there are others out there. All these tips much appreciated. It will still be possibly a month or two before I start but I'm thinking about doing a build post. I did already get the special ARP head studs as well. Its essentially a short block a of right now. I went with eagle rods and CP pistons. Got the crank tested and polished. Balance shaft has been deleted....the list continues!

 

[Miasma]

Keep records of all clearance specs when your building. This way if anything ever goes wrong you have source material to figure it out. Make sure mic an calliper a are calibrated, if not it can throw off your measurements. Use plasti gauge to measure bearings and valve clearance.

 

[volcakid8787]

Do most people favor putting engine and tranny in together or separate?

 

[Doubleot]

Together is a lot easier

 

[Miasma]

I usually pull and instead them together. It's a lot easier I find, but if you have a freshly painted engine bay it might be better to seperate so nothing scratches.

 

[volcakid8787]

I was also wondering, if I have cams (such as BC272), is it advisable to have an engine management system or anything like that? I think my route is quite the opposite of most DSMERS, I am trying to build motor first, then do bolt ons.

 

[DSM1G90]

Nobody's ever mentioned on break-in procedures:

Use cheap, straight weight 30w or 40w dino oil as break-in oil and change oil and filter from 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 until 1000 miles, along with giving it a good blip of power from time to time to aid in getting rings to seat more better.

You use synth oils at the beginning and that motor will NEVER get broken in correctly.

Good luck - DSM

 

[northernawd]

the motorman method for break in is widely used by dsmers and also a little bit quicker. Most of us use ecmlink as our source for engine management.

 

[bonecollector]

I'm going to use performance parts...all the replies appreciated! A question I have about the service manual is where could I find a good one? I've heard about them having them online but I have since been unable to find one. I ordered one and have received it. I came with an electrical manual separate. I'm not sure if this is the best one or if there are others out there. All these tips much appreciated. It will still be possibly a month or two before I start but I'm thinking about doing a build post. I did already get the special ARP head studs as well. Its essentially a short block a of right now. I went with eagle rods and CP pistons. Got the crank tested and polished. Balance shaft has been deleted....the list continues!

I found my factory manual on eBay, there are two books, Volume:1 Engine, Chassis, Body. Volume:2 Electrical. If it was printed by Chrysler/Mitsubishi that is what your looking for. My car is a 91 and i bought the 93 manual thinking that it would also cover the 6 bolt motor, turns out i was wrong. There are some slight differences in TQ specs between the 7 bolt and the 6 bolt that you'll have to look out for, As long as you follow the specs for your engine and you'll be okay.

Chilton and Haynes are okay but don't go into as much detail as a Factory manual will.

I did already get the special ARP head studs as well.

Another detail to remember, Is to place the washers for the ARP's in the head prior to installing the head onto the block. (They can be held in place with some grease)
Or you'll have to take the head back off after you figure out that 4 of the washer's don't fully seat because of the thickness of the ARP stud and the valve spring seat getting in the way.

I would also recommend searching "how to install ARP head studs" there is a certain procedure that must be followed.

Balance shaft has been deleted.

Use a copper crush washer and some RTV sealant on the bolt "threads" that you used to replace the old balance shaft tensioner pulley bolt.

When you get it running keep a close eye on your oil pressure to you engine as well as to your turbo.

I was also wondering, if I have cams (such as BC272), is it advisable to have an engine management system or anything like that? I think my route is quite the opposite of most DSMERS, I am trying to build motor first, then do bolt ons.

ANYTIME you alter the flow of air going into or, created by the engine (Ie: larger pistons, bigger valve's, ported head, larger cams) you will have to tell the ecu how to compensate for that change.
(when building a performance 4g63T ECMlink is the best "first mod")

It is also best to degree your Camshafts! here are a couple good links on why it is important to and how to do so.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ing-dummies-understanding-what-happening.html
4G63 Camshaft Degreeing


If you're planing on having your head resurfaced be sure to do the "oil port mod" prior to it going to the machine shop.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

 

[DSM1G90]

True, the motoman method is what race car owners do: after it's all slapped together, it's a full bore, high speed break-in to get them rings and all other tight stuff seated nice and tight along with quick.

But, still have to do the high frequent dino oil and filter changes until it's deemed enough that all is good.