Engine Rebuild

[Kyromoto]

ok so i started the process today, took off the valve cover and the exhaust manifold. i confirmed i have no compression so im trying to check the gasket but ran out of time today. woulda had it done but uhaul had HUA syndrome (head up arse) and made us drive all over for 2 hours to get a auto transport. anyways if it isnt the head gasket that made the lack of compression ill be at a complete loss. so if anyone has any ideas what else it could be id like to hear it. thanks for answering my noob questions

 

[Lonnie gandee]

Did you overheat or something... your explanation is kinda vague. You have 0 compresion in 1 or all 4 cylinders? Be as specific as you can in the future when posting a problem...

I would check for warpage on the head... Or maybe you leaned out with you 20g... You have no fuel mods in your profile....

And by the way..... Nobody puts a 25g on an already turbo charged dsm....

Justmessin around...

 

[Kyromoto]

o im sorry i explained it to ray peters and forgot to everyone else...

pistons 1 and 4 have about 50 psi or somthing. 2 and 3 have zero.

and when the problem started it over heated and started leaking oil from behind the header and then it stalled and never started again.

and i didnt build the car, it was built by a rally driver and i baught it off him, so im not sure if i have any fuel mods. i only know a few of the mods i got. and would it be a bad idea to get the 25 g turbo??? or were you joking for real

 

[marsh63]

try to do a leak down test and that will tell you why you compression is bad. if it overheated then you will most likly have a warped head which will cause crappy compression. but for sure try to do a leak down and tell us the results. and good luck

 

[Kyromoto]

a leak down test??? hmmm dont know what that is... ill try looking it up and ill see if i can do it early in the morning. it doesnt need a special tool or anything like the compression did right? if so i probably wont have the right tool.

update

just checked VFAQ for leak down test and its a bad link. takes me to some dumb gambling thing. anyways can some 1 walk me through it?

 

[marsh63]

it is a test where you put the motor at top dead center for the cylinder your testing(all valves closed for that cylinder) and then you hook up the tool which is a specialty tool(which is just like a compression tester) and put compressed air into the cylinder and the gauge tells you how much leaking air is leaving.

also here for where the air leave out the motor. if its out of the intake your intake valves are junk and so on. if you here it coming out of the oil dipstick your rings are shot.

but by how your motor is leaking oil you mostlikly blew a head gasket and maybe (but most likely)warped the head.

 

[Kyromoto]

geeeeze. i really hope its just the gasket... o yeah and it only leaked oil right at the moment of dying. it doesnt leak anymore. i really hope the head isnt warped thatll be alot more than i have right now. can i rent that specialty tool at like an auto store? and to put my cylinder at TDC can i spin the crank by hand or is there another way to do it?

 

[marsh63]

ok well if you remove your drivers side front tire theres a little hole in a plastic shield that you put a 1/2 in extension in and can turn the motor over by hand. as far as the leak down tester goes try to find a friend that has one or the normal shop you bring your vehicle's to and see if they are nice enough to let borrow it and show you how to use it.

if your cylinder head is warped it cost like $50 to have it milled back to where it should be.

best thing to do is call around. and even better thing find a friend who knows what they are doing.

 

[Kyromoto]

o ok... i thought if it was warped i needed to buy a new one. thats cool it can just be milled. but unfortunatly ive never taken any of my cars into a shop. its always been relativly simple stuff to fix on my jeep since it isnt raced . but this is much more serious and my rally car.

 

[marsh63]

yeah i dont go to shops either. its pretty simple to remove the head. me and my friend had my head off in about a hour. (i broke a valve.) im still in the middle of my build cause parts take forever to get in.

well this is a perfect time to learn. do you use this car as a daily though right now.? and if your using it as a rally car if you can wait and save up. why not put the parts to make your car ready to handle more power on now since you will most likely have to take the head off now.

but befor i scare you into thinking its something real bad do the leak down and tell us the results. then we can tell you what to do maybe.

 

[Kyromoto]

yeah i didnt think of that. it isnt my daily driver at the moment since my jeep is in working order and my GSX isnt . but when it works i love driving it. anyways yeah i just got to put valve cover back on for the test right? and what brands would you recommend for upgraded parts for more power... and what should i get. i want atleast a much better head gasket. the one it came with wasnt even metal. the car came with spare injectors (forgot brand) and i really wanna get it ported and polished but not sure how much improvment that will do. what else do you think I need???

 

[Lonnie gandee]

The first thing you have to do is either:
A) Leakdown for accurate results
B) Remove the head.


These heads are aluminum, it doesnt take much to warp these heads.

Those compression numbers are tellin me its warped. If its even any good......You'll have to have it line bored, and decked to make it better.... Better get looking for another one!!

If you're autocrossing/ rallying I think port and polish, is overkill. It slows down the heads velocity, which is vital to a fast spooling turbo.... And if you are autoxing, a 20g, which you have, is plenty.... If anything you should trying to learn about your motor, instead of upgrading parts!!

You need to think about what your goals are....

If its autox and no drag, a stock vavletrain'd head will suit you fine. Add some 264 cams(or something similar) and you'll be happy.

You need to get the car runnign before thinkin about turbo's..

And the 25g, isnt the turbo of choice...There are plenty of good 50-trim turbos on the market these days, and can be had for as cheap as $700... And these are direct bolt ons...


Do some searchin homeboy.....

 

[marsh63]

yeah i didnt think of that. it isnt my daily driver at the moment since my jeep is in working order and my GSX isnt . but when it works i love driving it. anyways yeah i just got to put valve cover back on for the test right? and what brands would you recommend for upgraded parts for more power... and what should i get. i want atleast a much better head gasket. the one it came with wasnt even metal. the car came with spare injectors (forgot brand) and i really wanna get it ported and polished but not sure how much improvment that will do. what else do you think I need???

ok well port and polish is just a fancy thing to do that really dosnt add much power. cost alot and dosnt do enough for what it cost.

also you do not need to have the valve cover on. acually its better to leave it off then you can check to see if your valve seals are bad to. (if your removing the head get new guides, seals, If the valves look bad your need new ones of those, get a cosmic or mitus 4 layer headgasket, if you are going to add more boost your should get arp headstuds.)

well if they are bigger than stock injectors you will need to get the suporting mods for them.

heres a post on what u need for hp and injector upgrades
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...questions/277747-fuel-injector-questions.html

as far as what you want to do reading other peoples post and the tech articals will help alot. read as much as you can on what you want to do. also see what other people put on their cars that works good.

but if you are wanting to add more power you better do everything from the bottom up. build the motor right and dont cut corners.

any more questions?

 

[marsh63]

also when you remove the head you SHOULD (just to be on the safe side) get a new timing belt and auto tensioner(make sure its oem for both) i mean it would suck to do all this work and have one of these break and cost a hell of alot more money for bent valves and possibly a bottom end.

check to see if your motor has the balance shafts removed. if not you will need to replace that belt and pulley thing too.

and if your going for 350 hp you should build this motor right so save up a lot of money.

right now i have spent over 800 in just the stuff for my cylinder head parts. (didn't buy the cams yet)
and im going to buy some weisco pistons and all new bearings. also eliminating the balance shaft. im going to go for about 400hp so im building the motor to be able to take it.

also since it overheated you should get a new water pump(oem) and thermostat.

 

[Kyromoto]

yeah, my thermostat didnt work and never told me it over heated so i need one of those for sure. thanks for all the advice guys. im gonna get to work now and see what i can do with that leak down tester