Engine rebuild - where do I start?

[hofmania]

Well I blew my engine out yesterday. Should have seen it coming. Truth be told, I was secretly hoping to have to do this at some point so I can clean up the engine bay a bit more. I'll detail below where I'm at and I could use your help to see if I am missing anything. My plan will be to get as much as possible from a local junk yard + what I can reuse off my 2g and then buy the rest

First I read some posts and did some searches. A couple people referenced the all-in-one packages some companies sell so I started there to form my list. My signature and profile are up to date with all my bolt on mods. Looking to put down between 4-500hp. This is a weekend car.

1g Throttle Body (already have)
1g Intake Manifold
2g head (Should I do any porting? Anything else need to be done to a stock head?)
1g 6bolt block (Can I get one from the junk yard? What should I have done at a machine shop?)
Crankshaft (I'm guessing stock is just fine)
Bearings (ACL $110 for main and rod)
Rods (manly or eagle? $350ish)
Camshafts (stock)
New gaskets
Pistons and pins (open to recs, which ratio/bore? $500ish)
Valves, Guides, Stems, Lifters, seals (no clue here)
ARP Head studs ($100)
Balance shaft delete

So...what am I missing? What suggestions would you make? What can stay stock, ie where can I save money and buy from the junk yard?

Thanks so much!!

 

[74runner]

If possible have the new block and any other parts your buying checked out by your engine shop before you pay for them, most shops will tell you if the part is good or not for free.
Don't buy bearings or pistons until you know where you stand with your crank and cylinder bore because you have no way of knowing the measurements until after the parts have been cleaned up and machined and inspected, you might need over sized pistons and under sized bearings.
The only other major thing I'd do is buy a new oil pump, your old one is probably worn and not worth taking a chance on if your motor blew up it could have junk in it that you don't want in your new motor

There is a ton of things that need/should be done to a motor and parts before and during a build so find a reputable builder and ask lots of questions don't just slap it together and call it good, sure it will run but making sure every thing is within spec gives peace of mind and longer life and reliability.

 

[VtecvrsTurbo]

Since you want 500hp and still have to stock head, you might as well get it built. You mentioned Valves, Guides, Stems, Lifters, seals which are all replaced or cleaned if you get the head rebuilt. Your also running the stock cams, which would make your wanted power levels difficult to achieve. Id rock some 272-280 cams, should work well in the 500hp range.

A 6-bolt block may be hard to come by at a junk yard, but they are common on craigslist and the classifieds. They seem to be around $150 bare. When you get work done to the block, make sure you get the corresponding piston size. Most if all machine shops know what needs to be done to a block, (decked, bored, cleaned)

The crank seems to be fine at that power level, just get it balanced and prepped.

Both eagle and manly rods have a great rep, so its a personal preference there.

For the pistons, you need to decide if your running pump gas or not. Remember that higher compression will require race gas at high boost levels. 8.0-8.5 seems to be ok using 91-93 octane.

Id add timing belt/water pump and headgasket to the list.

 

[hofmania]

I love this place. Thanks for replying!

Any other thoughts?

 

[WES_393]

1g Throttle Body (already have)
1g Intake Manifold
2g head (Should I do any porting? Anything else need to be done to a stock head?)
1g 6bolt block (Can I get one from the junk yard? What should I have done at a machine shop?)
Crankshaft (I'm guessing stock is just fine)
Bearings (ACL $110 for main and rod)
Rods (manly or eagle? $350ish)
Camshafts (stock)
New gaskets
Pistons and pins (open to recs, which ratio/bore? $500ish)
Valves, Guides, Stems, Lifters, seals (no clue here)
ARP Head studs ($100)
Balance shaft delete

So...what am I missing? What suggestions would you make? What can stay stock, ie where can I save money and buy from the junk yard?

The intake manifold should match the head. If your going to use a 2g head, use a 2g manifold. Gasket match the ports if you must, but a stock 2g head/manifold is capable of meeting your goals. You'll need to have the head bolt holes enlarged 1mm to fit the 6-bolts larger head studs.

For the head (either 1g or 2g) I would suggest bronze guides, 3g lifters, and upgraded springs to match your cams. I wouldn't recommend stock cams for 400-500hp. Otherwise just get it inspected, cleaned, and rebuilt by a competent machinist. If you want to run an MLS gasket (which isn't necessary for your goals) then now is the time to have the block and head resurfaced specifically for an MLS gasket.

If you want to build the bottom end yourself, you'll need to have the block and crank inspected and machined. For the crank, have them pull the galley plugs and scrub the journals after machining. For the block, have it bored as little as possible and have the cylinders honed to your exact set of pistons. It would be a good idea to have the rods and pistons weight matched as well.

For brands of piston/rod I would suggest Eagle/Manley combo. For bearings, Clevite P-Series. Get a decent set of calipers to check the clearances before assembly, and pick up a big tube of Moly assembly lube.

 

[BogusSVO]

There are some details to help improve your build that a local machine shop will not do.

Start reading.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

 

[TrevoREX]

Bogussvo that is the best link ive ever seen.