Engine Rebuild - Where do I start?

[cacharbe]

So,

I have a '95 Tsi AWD with 156k+ miles on it. I've owned it for over 110k miles, and the only modding I've done is an Extreme UIC with 1g BOV and a K&N FIPK. I had the head rebuilt at about 68k miles at the dealer (Got seriously cut off on the expressway, and in my haste to down shift and control the car, found TOO low a gear - Saved the car from the wall, blew the head - POP!).

While driving two days ago my CE light lit up, indicating to me that it's time to change the O2 sensor. Which means some Serious Work(tm). With all the work that would have to go into doing that, and the thought that I will probably have to replace the housing as well, and maybe the exhaust manifold, etc, etc. I figure that it's time to retire this car as my daily driver. Since it really only has sentimental value (meaning no real trrade-in value), it means that it is time, too, to get my hands dirty.

The question is - Where the hell do I start?

And please, I know - I have a shop manual, I'm collecting all the tools necessary including an engine hoist, etc.

I've seen all sorts of information regarding what I need for parts, what I should look for, should I go to a 6 bolt or shouldn't I, worry about crank walk (of which I haven't seen any), don't worry about it... So Many Opinions, So few "Real Life Tales".

Since this is going to be a project car, I'm thinking that I'm not going to need to shell out HUGE cash up front. Maybe a new engine (JDM, maybe?) and the initial parts for the head rebuild and/or maybe the MachV rebuild kit. Opinons?

Is there an "Official List" that says, "If you are rebuilding your engine, go, get these parts and replace them, do the following since you're in there and, if you have a chance, do this," or am I going to have to make this up as I go?

Thank you all for your help. If a good "DO THE FOLLOWING" list comes out of this thread, I will definitely compile it together and post it as a whole.

 

[dave99gst]

am i reading this right - are you saying you midas' well re-build the motor because you got a CEL from the o2 sensor ?
Changing the o2 sensor is NOT a hard just to do at all - nor do you need to change the o2 housung,exhaust etc, etc

 

[cacharbe]

The suspension is shot, there is a lot of body work that needs to be done (Fascia replacement, repaint, the passneger side door latch busted, the locks need to be replaced) I'm sure I need a new tranny, it's time for a new clutch...The car is old.

Because of this, I'm planning on getting a new commuter car (I might as well use this supplier discount while I have it) and taking the time to set this car up right. I haven't gotten involved in any MAJOR work on this car in the past because I didn't have another car to drive, so I couldn't have any real down time. If it didn't take 2.5 days (A weekend), and it couldn't be done in a parking lot (no garage) I couldn't do the work myself. Now that I have the time and will soon have access to a garage, it's time to get serious.

Does this make sense?

I realize that I could just repalce the O2 sensor and be done with it, but I also know from others that in it's current state, there is probably a slough of other work that needs to be done that I should do. And now I can.

Truth be told, I might have to replace the O2 sensor and drive it a month or so more, since I'm getting married in 1 month + 1 day, but I thought I would start the search for information now.

 

[TheTSiGuy]

checked compression lately?

I dont know, If you have financial means and time (opportunity costs!) to do so, I guess.

I wouldnt consider a rebuild unless my compression dipped to the unservicable level, and it absolutely needed it.

My 90 tsi awd still has 140psi across all 4. I wouldnt consider a rebuild until it dipped to 130. I have 155,000 miles. stock turbo still too.

Clicky Me Here!

There's the topline rebuild kit from slowboy. Very Basic. I dont know if you want to go nuts with the car though. Make sure the head is machined, valves are ok, crank is machined as well.

 

[dave99gst]

so basicly you WANT a project. you want to go through the entire car and re-do everything. I got ya now.

 

[cacharbe]

so basicly you WANT a project. you want to go through the entire car and re-do everything. I got ya now.

Exactly.

 

[Jafro]

It depends on how far you want to take it, and what you want to upgrade.

For the engine, a stock 7-bolt will easily make 350whp by just replacing head studs, head gasket, main studs and adding a ton of boost and fuel.

I'd start with the compression test whether or not you want to keep your engine. It will tell you what you're working with before you start. My bet is, it's fine. A machine shop can easily fix a running car's motor if the compression is low. At 156k miles, you don't have a crankwalk candidate... so why buy another engine and jump through hoops to install it?

If you want to build the internals and push it higher than 350hp for everyday use, save the tool budget. That cuts into mod budgets. Most of the tools needed for rebuilding are a bit cost prohibitive, so you're better off renting them (or borrow them from your neighbor and never return them).

The machine shop is your friend. Decide which motor you want to use, give them the motor and the build list of what you want done to it. That's where it's all about money. They'll know what to do from there. If they do assembly from valve cover to oil pan, ask about a start-up warranty. That's not bad insurance. If they don't do the warranty and you pay for assembly, find another machine shop. If you're doing assembly you can probably save a few hundred bucks. A few hundred bucks you'll have to spend on tools to assemble it with, and you'll also be responsible for checking all of their work.

I don't think you could have picked a better project chassis. Everybody does it a little different. I don't think there's an optimal list of what works best for these cars, just a lot of testimonies of what has worked well for most. I'm not the type to throw away something that works, so I rebuilt mine. I'm not scared of the 7-bolt hype.

 

[cacharbe]

It depends on how far you want to take it, and what you want to upgrade.

The image in my mind has always been of the ultimate sleeper. You know, the car that you'd want if you had to get the hell out of town with someone in hot pursuit. Not that I'm planning a bank job or anything, but the whole "Graphics, Wings, Ground effects" scene just doesn't appeal to me as much as the "Asskickin' acceleration, cornering like a light-cycle in TRON, I wasn't driving fast, I was flying low" one does.

With this image in my head and the knowledge that every engine needs Air, Fuel and Spark to run, I suppose I have the following list in mind:

• Better Airflow, so
  • Freer Intake (Remove Stock - Injen or Built at Home)
  • FM Intercooler
  • Down Pipe Back Exhaust
  • Better flowing Exhaust Manifold and O2 housing
• Fast Spooling, higher flowing Turbo (fpBig28, maybe??)
• Strong Engine
  • Mounts and Bushings
  • Gaskets and Seals
  • Studs
  • etc...
• New Injectors and a new ignition system
• Fuel Pump
• Boost Controller
• Better BOV(?)

I'm sure there's a list of things that I don't know about, but I think this covers the basics.

I'd start with the compression test to test whether or not you want to keep your engine. It will tell you what you're working with before you start. My bet is, it's fine. A machine shop can easily fix a running car's motor if the compression is low. At 156k miles, you don't have a crankwalk candidate... so why buy another engine and jump through hoops to install it?

Good point.

Most of the tools needed for rebuilding are a bit cost prohibitive, so you're better off renting them (or borrow them from your neighbor and never return them).

So I've noticed, though I would like to have some of my own.

The machine shop is your friend. Decide which motor you want to use, give them the motor and the build list of what you want done to it.

Which leads me to my next question, I guess. Just tear it out, bring them the core and the parts I want replaced and tell them to go nuts? Who the hell do I trust? Is there anyone from the Detroit area on the boards who can recommend a place? I know a few shops, but I wouldn't trust them with much more than replacing the alternator (and they even screwed that up, I had to re-tension the belt myself, the putzes).

I don't think you could have picked a better project chassis.

Which is exactly why I'm not junking it or selling it to some kid (pardon me to the kids out there). I love this car, and it has seen me through some tough times. I'm doing a sh!t load of driving now, and it's time to get a commuter. The next NEW sports car I buy will probably be a 350Z in a couple years, but with a wedding on the immediate horizon, practical is the word of the day.

That doesn't mean I can't have a project as well. This way, everyone wins.

Thank you for your (continued) input.

 

[Jafro]

Just tear it out, bring them the core and the parts I want replaced and tell them to go nuts? Who the hell do I trust? Is there anyone from the Detroit area on the boards who can recommend a place? I know a few shops, but I wouldn't trust them with much more than replacing the alternator (and they even screwed that up, I had to re-tension the belt myself, the putzes).

Yes. That's the idea. The people that replace alternators and do service work aren't necessarily the people I'm talking about. I'd start with your Yellow pages, start calling people listed in the Machine shop section that advertise for rebuilding import and domestic engines. Maybe there are some in your area that are more familiar with Mitsubishi than others. I found a shop that could do what I wanted fairly easily. They don't do any service work, all they do is rebuild stuff. I had to do the re-installation on my own. I chose to reassemble everything myself except the shortblock. Worked well for me.

I knew I wanted my block bored .020 over with forged pistons, Eagle Rods, no balance shafts, head port & polish, valve job, install HKS cams, crower valve springs/retainers, and coated Clevite bearings. All of that with a new front case cost me about $2800. Worth every penny. Then add all of the powder coating, polishing, gasket sets, turbo, timing goodies, TRE tranny, scatter shield, a clutch, exhaust, intake, fmic, fuel system, MAFT translator, and it got over $6000 real fast.

 

[MrDee]

deeyaaam dude..yu must be rollin in cash..i just finished a complete rebuild of my 90LaserRS and i swear i came nothing close to $1000.
-Bought Junkyard head..cleaned it up and swapped valves between my old one(CarbonOff does miracles)
-New forged pistons..amazingly Cyliners were showroom standard(only had to hone)
-new bearings rod+main
-new gaskets + seals
-New timin belt +
-all minor items like sparks plugs and wires etc

All work done with block still in car and in my appartment parkin lot

as i speak my lil baby runs like i just pulled her out of the DSM showroom

 

[cacharbe]

deeyaaam dude..you must be rolling in cash.

Not so much, but I have time and patience, two things which can overcome $$ when used in conjunction. There is no time table to get it done which means if I have to wait a month to raise a $1000 to buy some part or another, then so be it.

It used to be that I had to have it done immediately because this was my only car, but now that it will be a project car, well, overtime, the money issue isn't as painful. It's when you have to have it done ASAP that the cash becomes a burden. And it has been a couple times in the past.