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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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Sounds to me like there is a crack in your exhaust manifold flange to the turbo or the turbo itself has a crack. It would explain why it would whistle under boost, I had a DSM do this as well. Pop off the the heatshield and check it out. I also recommend a BLT as previously mentioned.

Sounds like you need a BLT.
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Edit: Oops wrong image!
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That's one nice looking BLT can you buy one like that of do you have to home depot it?
 

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Hey guys,
To start it off let me tell you what i have. I have a 95 GSX with a 6bolt swap that has a supposidly built bottom end ( i bought the car like this and am unsure exactly on what was used in the build ).. I also have a small 16g turbo running 14psi, FMIC, intake, BOV, doxbog racing stage 2 tranny, turbo-back exhaust.

The story and MY PROBLEM:

About a week ago i was on the highway late at night and did a 2nd gear pull. sure enough at the top of 2nd gear i hear a loud back fire, car blows smoke really bad and starts to overheat. I pull off the side of the highway. As i begin to get in the brake down lane i get off the gas and slowly cost down the side of the highway. When my RPMs got to about 2500 the car completely shut off on its own and refused to start so i had it towed home.. NOW.. after getting it home and allowing it to sit for a few days ( while charging the battery because my hazard lights on the side of the highway completely drained it ) i was able to get the car started. Sure enough i hear a knocking noise from the engine that is very hard to identify from the outside. It is very noticable and fairly loud at idle. Also i noticed if you give the car a slight rev it is the loudest when there is NO LOAD on the engine what so ever (at the top of the rev just befor it falls)

My first thought was rod bearing but its hard to tell, i have since drained the oil and it checked out perfectly clean with no shavings at all. I just did a compression test and got some very intersting numbers, they are as followed 1. 15 2. 160 3. 158 4. 160

I have attached a video of the noise for your guys viewing.

What do you guys think ??? :banghead:

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_H_DeJ_DJY
 
I've had a very similar sound on a few occasions; 1) Loose exhaust manifold nuts and blown gasket. 2) Loose bolt on flelxplate hitting engine. 3) Split in half rod bearing. Although all of these are unrelated, they all sound quite similar because they change in tempo along with the engine RPM's and resonate well through the engine like a tuning fork. A mechanic's stethescope would help to better pinpoint the sound, as would getting underneath the car for a listen. Are you ####hing coolant?? I would be suspect of the headgasket, or at least figure why you overheated when this all started.
 
i have tried to use my Stethescope and even with that it is still very hard to pin-point. The car runs and idels fine at this point and does not over heat. I have not actually driven the car since this happened as i dont want to cause any more damage then what is already done.

All 4 cylinders are firing and it seems to run very smooth just has the Knock noise.

My main concern is the Compression resuts on cylinder number 1. being so low at only 15 psi
 
Check for a collapsed lifter.. Thats what it sounds like and it will cause a loss of compression like your stating.. Are you mixing oil and water?? Id say probably not a head gasket and seeming there are no metal shavings in the pan its unlikely to be a bearing but its possible.. A collapsed lifter would also change in tempo and sounds from the motor as its not moving with the motor like its suppose too..
 
Your compression numbers seem to suggest a simple collapsed lifter in #1

However

Pop that timing cover and make sure you didn't jump time! Sounds exactly like the engine that came in my 91 shell. The kid had no idea he jumped time, as soon as i told him the asking price was 1/2.

Curious, does the sound go completely away when reved above 3 to 4 grand?
 
i should have mentioned, one of the first things i did do was check the timing and it was perfect.

as far as the noise going away above 3-4k rpm, i honestly dont know the answer to that as i have not yet reved it that high, LOL.. im to afraid i would cause more damage.
 
i should have mentioned, one of the first things i did do was check the timing and it was perfect.

as far as the noise going away above 3-4k rpm, i honestly dont know the answer to that as i have not yet reved it that high, LOL.. im to afraid i would cause more damage.

Lol pop the valve cover and take a look at the lifters.. You SHOULD be able to see the bad one.. If its not just visible then have a buddy turn her by hand and watch the lifters as they move, one/two will move different then the rest... Im willing to put money on a collapsed lifter with you compression numbers.. If it was bearings it would change compression a BIT but not that much..
 
I plan on doing that tomorrow morning, I really hope its something that simple for me. LOL

thanks for the help so far guys!

UPDATE : I got around to pulling the valve cover. When i exposed the head nothing looked out of the ordinary, everything appeared normal. I proceed to take the lifter out of the cylinder 1 area and clean, bleed and prime them and re-install them. After this i started the car and thought the knock was gone.

Sure enough the knock is still there ( maybe not as loud ).

New compression results we obtained and i was able to get about 60psi out of cylinder 1 now.

Any thoughts?

I have also noticed the car is burning oil as its dumping alot of smoke at idle.
 
How hard is it to do a balance shaft eliminator kit by chance. Mine is making the same noise. Just had my head fully built with 272 cams.

It is very very VERY difficult with the engine in the car or a e/t/l from what i hear. that's what is keeping me away from doing it. .
 
Today i did the same thing and pulled the lifters in hopes that maybe yesterday i missed something. again nothing out of the ordinary...

At this point im concerned about the 60psi from cylinder 1 and also the amount of smoke this thing is pouring out the exhaust.

any advice will help
 
DO NOT keep running that engine until you identify the problem. You will only do more damage.

My engine recently did almost the exact same thing and it turned out to be a balance shaft although I think yours was a rod bearing. Pull the oil pan off and look in there, the balance shafts and inspect all the rod and crank bearings as well as the balance shafts.
 
Anybody have any thoughts? I dont believe its a rod bearing at this point just because my compression numbers.. generally with just a spun rod bearing you coudl expect that noise but usaully the compression is not effected in this magnitude. My compression in cylinder 1 being at ony 60PSI is quite mind boggeling.

Let me know what you guy would do next..

Im thinking pull the head and inspect valves?
 
Hi, I'm new to the forums-I have a 95 eclipse gst and recently it developed a noise, like a ticking/rattling noise-it's not rod knock. The noise is on the top end valve cover, around the front right drivers side- the timing is dead on where it's supposed to be, also the car will not go past 3100 rpm even when I floor it, and has a little smoke coming from the exhaust. I checked all my electronic connections and they where clean and connected, checked turbo for shaft play none whatsoever. Been trying to figure this out for a week now, does anyone know what this could be? I looked in the other threads with no success, thanks.
 

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