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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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If the sound goes away when you push in your clutch at idle,wouldnt it be the pilot bearing? When the TOB goes out doesnt it only make noise at the very first point of engagement and the last point of disengagement?
 
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If the sound goes away when you push in your clutch at idle,wouldnt it be the pilot bearing? When the TOB goes out doesnt it only make noise at the very first point of engagement and the last point of disengagement?

Our cars dont have pilot bearings.. The throw out bearing can make noise at any point of engagement, mostly when the clutch is disengaged..
 
Last night driving I start hearing a small screeching noise. Thought maybe it was my brakes since it was coming from that direction. But it progressively got worse until I had to pull over at a grocery store and call my buddy. I drove him around to see if he could tell what it was, because now its like a loud harmonic humming and screeching so loud its just flat embarsing. Went home turning heads where ever I went. Checked the forum. 1 either brakes ran out of pad, or 2 dust cover touching the rotor. This morning I look and see wear marks on the dust cover. Just some fyi if you start to hear some slight squeeling/screeching and you know your brakes are good, check your dust cover.
 
Seen this many many times, usually after working on the brakes though. Did you hit something? Those don't just bend themselves? Anyway, glad it was something simple.

Just an FYI. you may want to jack the car up and make your wheel bearing didn't take a crap and it letting the rotor hit now. I can't think of any reason other than that or the lugnuts being loose that the rotor start gradually hitting the backing plate and then get worse.
 
A bad throwout brg. will also make noise with the clutch pedal pressed. The noise may stop now as the main shaft brgs. will give these noises. It stops spinning with the clutch in. I have a brand new t/o brg installed last week and have the noise sim to yours. I know enough about trannys to not be too worried at this point. It is an internal shaft bearing in my awd. Tres...
 
I recently bought a 91 TSI AWD. It would start and run rough but when u stepped on the gas it wouldn't go above 500 rpms and the boost gauge wouldn't move much. It also had a loud knock sounds coming from the motor. I figure the bottem end was done so I started tearing the motor apart. The head looks good just need a new valve cover because this one was JB welded together. Pulled the oiil pan off and noticed that everything was intact but there was a metalic tint like metal in the bottem of the pan and slight bit of oil left in the pan. My question is what could it be? I am thinking bearings so I am going to finish pulling the block out and do a rebuild and balance shaft delete on it as soon as I get the money put aside. Where should I look as far as rebuild kits? Im not going for anything crazy or expensive because I am looking to get this rebuilt by jan or so since I am going to Iraq in feb and my wife wants to enjoy the car while I am going.

Rideout
 
It's going to be bearing material. Just tear it down. If you want it to really run good but wanna do it on a budget then I would get the stock rods reconditioned, get a new set of .020" OEM or ITM pistons, new rings, bearings, all new gaskets, get the head pressure checked and have a machine shop do the work for you. Make sure the crank isn't damaged first and go from there.
 
That sounds alot like what I had in mind along with new timing belt, water pump, oil pump, and balance shaft delete. What would the average machine shop charge for the work listed above. I thought about assembling the motor myself I have access to all tools for the most part if not gives me a reason to order some LOL.
 
The machine work is most commonly between $200-$250. Balancing can be an additional $100-$150 depending on the machine shop.
 
It's been a few years, but Ft Sill used to have a great auto craft shop. Check and see if they still have the instructors and equipment to do everything there. Bay charges used to be $2 hr, can't remember what the cost for doing the head and blocks were. Just remember it was really cheap.
 
My car makes a really loud metal on metal grinding sound when I get into boost. I can't really hear it cruising around but if I get into it and go past about 10-12 psi it becomes pretty loud. I have read many other threads with loud metal grinding sounds but none of them sounds exactly like mine. It doesn't do it when idling, decelerating or any other noticable time. Car shifts fine and everything seems fine, but sounds like it's coming from the turbo area (from driver seat). I don't know how I would find out if my turbo is starved for oil but I haven't changed the oil feed line in over a year so I don't know why this would have changed.

The car runs 24 psi, pte 50 trim (3000 miles) on e85 if this helps.
I haven't had time to check for shaft play yet but I check 5 months ago and there wasn't any at the time.

Ideas and what to look for besides shaft play would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Possibly the bearings in your turbo are shot and under boost the compressor wheel is rubbing the inside of the housing. I had a buddy who's turbo did this and it would still boost a few psi. but it would make a weird sound.
 
I'm going to re torque the turbo bolts, check for shaft play and a few other things this weekend :(
 
If you assume that you have some sort of internal metal on metal contact going on you better start checkng your oil out with the quickness give your self a complimentary oil change and examine your filter.
 
+1 if you get metal shavings in your motor, thats going to be a hell of a lot more money then just having to find a turbo...:banghead:
 
well it could be the driveshaft making the humming noise but when was the last time you had the fluid and filter in your trans changed?

when you go to accel. and it starts to vibrate can you let off and it goes away? can you hit the gas down farther then where it is currently n quick and have the vibration also go away?
 
a couple of possibilities 1) Bolts loose in Rear end , Transfer case bolts are loose 2) Clutch Plate seperation!(THIS IS BAD) 3)carrier bearing 4) output shaft on transmission 5)exhaust is loose! . I am sure there are a few more that wiser tech know right off hand
 
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