Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[viprez586]

Take the dipstick out, put the handle end and press it to the ear and the other end on any part of the motor

Using the dipstick? Man that's ghetto, I hope you know a screw driver does the same thing.

 

[thatblondechik]

In your case, time to rip off the valve cover and bleed those suckers out, they are quite strong when pumped up with oil.

Did some research, called around, asked some people. And it turns out that lifters will bleed themselves in about 24hrs+-.

They can go back in the car, just as long as you let them set for a while before cranking the car. Mine have been sitting for over a month so they're good.

 

[DSM1G90]

Funny, how we drift on to lifters and bent valves (which if bent, the motor wouldn't be running that smooth, let alone running at all) when it's a whining/grinding and not a ticking noise when the motor races up.

I thought of something after my inital comment on the belts and signed off earlier in the day, but how is the throwout bearing? Those love to whine when things get worn in the bell housing ...

Get inside and press on the clutch pedal to put weight on the throwout bearing and see if this grinding noise is coming from this area...

I hope you know a screw driver does the same thing

Might be ghetto, but the stick is longer and more flexible to get into areas where a screwdriver can't get to..

-DSM

 

[viprez586]

wow does that tool actually work? i was just thinking of how much a pain it is removing the timing belt to get to the lifters. and how can i check to see if i bent a valve without ripping the head off?

Bryce

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/289034-diy-lash-adjuster-lifter-removal-tool.html

Visually there is no way. I'd try turning the motor over by hand and see if there is excessive resistance.
Um, oh yeah you don't have to take out the cams, touch the timing belt or any of that extra work.

 

[92talontsibryce]

yeah i think i might get that tool

but now dsm1g90 says it might be the tob. the tob is new but i dont think its a oem one. the only thing i noticed is that the rpms drop a little bit when i press the clutch in.

Oh and something else i forgot to say. when im driving and the rpms are above 3 grand or so and i press the clutch in and put the car in neutral it will die. but i thin it is bc of a bad fuel filter. i already ordered one. but keep going about the tob.

Bryce

 

[viprez586]

Did some research, called around, asked some people. And it turns out that lifters will bleed themselves in about 24hrs+-.

They can go back in the car, just as long as you let them set for a while before cranking the car. Mine have been sitting for over a month so they're good.

True and possible, but I'd like to drive my car then stare at it. While it's true SOME oil with drain out, not all of it will. If they were primed, there will be some air in the lifter with the left over oil. Air doesn't lubricate well just to let you know.
I let my engine sit for 48 hours before putting the new HLAs in and the bore did not fully drain.
I mean its your engine, do what you like but I prefer doing it right and doing it once.

 

[viprez586]

Might be ghetto, but the stick is longer and more flexible to get into areas where a screwdriver can't get to..

Touche, can't say I've tried it before.

Funny, how we drift on to lifters and bent valves (which if bent, the motor wouldn't be running that smooth, let alone running at all) when it's a whining/grinding and not a ticking noise when the motor races up.

I thought of something after my inital comment on the belts and signed off earlier in the day, but how is the throwout bearing? Those love to whine when things get worn in the bell housing ...

Get inside and press on the clutch pedal to put weight on the throwout bearing and see if this grinding noise is coming from this area...

Like i said, my engine sounded similar for the first ~10minutes after putting in my new HLAs. A collapsed lifter will sound nasty. It's not possible a slightly bent valve is smacking the valve seat off-center???

Typically TOB noise will go away when the pedal has light/mild pressure or go away completely when the pedal is depressed.
There is an inspection cover on top of your trans for the TOB, take a peak at it if you would like.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

That whining noise could be an alternator on it's way out. I just changed mine a few months ago because of that same whirring noise that increased with RPMs. I really think you should pull the valve cover and timing belt cover just for the sake of curiousity. After that rotate the engine over by hand and take a look at everything. Take it as a warning sign of impending failure of something important.

 

[thatblondechik]

True and possible, but I'd like to drive my car then stare at it. While it's true SOME oil with drain out, not all of it will. If they were primed, there will be some air in the lifter with the left over oil. Air doesn't lubricate well just to let you know.
I let my engine sit for 48 hours before putting the new HLAs in and the bore did not fully drain.
I mean its your engine, do what you like but I prefer doing it right and doing it once.

As do I, but If the engine has been without oil for over a year, and sitting without any activity...swapping out cams isn't going to make one bit of difference.

Maybe I should have elaborated more. I have an engine that just went in my car. All of 250 miles on it, and it's been in storage for over a year without any kind of activity or fluids...no point in doing the unnessasary.

 

[caged]

See if you can locate exacly where is coming from that would help alot. It defanitly doesnt sound like a turbo. It could be the timing belt if there isnt enough tension on the belt it will vibrate and sound like that.

 

[92talontsibryce]

i already had the valve cover off and cranked over by hand to make sure the timing was right and everything looked great the only thing i found out was that my oil cap is leaking other than that everything inside looks like its suppost to. and are you sure the alt. could be causing that sound. are you talking about the alt. pulley?

and im sure my timing belt is tensioned right there is no slack in it at all

Bryce

 

[DSM1G90]

yea, take the ALT belt off and spin the pulley and see if the ALT bearings have gone bad, esp if it's the original ALT and high miles on the motor.

 

[92talontsibryce]

ok ill take the belt off and spin the alt pulley. how will i know if the bearing has gone bad?

Bryce

 

[Colt4G63 also]

ok ill take the belt off and spin the alt pulley. how will i know if the bearing has gone bad?

Bryce

Take off the alt and A/C belts and start the engine.

If you still have a noise, see if the harmonic balancer is rubbing on the timing cover.

 

[92talontsibryce]

if i start the car with the alt. belt off wont that drain my battery in a matter of secs? and i just bought a harmonic balancer bc i have unhappy birds chirrping under my hood. should be here by friday. ill make sure its not rubbing when i put the new one on.

Bryce

 

[caged]

The engine will run for ages with no alt belt.

 

[92talontsibryce]

ok ill try this tomorrow. if its not the alt. pulley my guess is i need to bleed the lifters. any other ideas of what the noise could be? so far my ideas are lifters, alt pulley, harmonic balancer, and i think thats it. any others?

Bryce

 

[92talontsibryce]

ill check that tomorrow too, any other ideas?

Bryce

 

[92talontsibryce]

well i finally got that tool to get the lifters out. and by the way it worked great. so i took the lifters out and bled them. there was alot of oil that came out. reinstalled them and started her up. the engine sounds completly diffrent and not in a good way. i believe the damage has already beed done. it sounds like the valve is hitting the piston. ill try to upload a video tomorrow.

any good shops in the dallas area that do valve jobs?

Thanks,
Bryce

 

[92talontsibryce]

ok i really need some help. i did a cold comprssion test today and the numbers were 150 across the board. can i still have some bent valves even though i have good compression? does anyone have any ideas of why my car sounds like this? i started it today and it still sounds the same. Please someoneguide me in any direction. could it be a balance shaft bearing?

Thanks
Bryce

 

[viprez586]

So it sounds the same, or completely different?

Your lifters will clack LOUD for the first ~10 minutes and then the sound tapers off after 5-15miles.
Did you remember to pull the fuse to cut off the fuel pump so you can crank the car over and prime the lifters?

A compression test quickly determines if you have pressure in that cylinder.
Although your numbers are good, to determine where you are loosing pressure you would do an CLT (Cylinder Leak-down Test). This is where you can accurately determine if you are loosing pressure at TDC.
Basically you fill the cylinder with compressed air and watch the gauge which shows how much leak-down you have in that particular cylinder.
You then locate where you are loosing pressure ie: Tail-pipe=Exhaust valve, Throttle plate= Intake valve, Oil cap= Rings/ valve stem seals, Adjacent cylinder(s)= Headgasket, Bubbles in coolant= Headgasket or water jacket. Any of these areas you will be listening for a howl or bubbling sound.

I make it sound easy, make sure you read the correct procedure before you attempt this though because I'm just giving you a quick run-down.

 

[92talontsibryce]

the car sounds the same as it did in the video.

yeah i can really hear the lifters claking but that should go away with a few miles. and no i didnt prime the lifters. actually i have never even heard of that. is it necessary or is it to late to do this. and how do i actually prime the lifters. pull the mpi fuse and try to start it?

but yes a leak down test should help out alot. do i have to make one or can i pick one up at a local parts store. (ill just do a search) I really hope its a valve(s) then atleast i would know what is wrong with my car.

Thanks
Bryce

 

[viprez586]

and no i didnt prime the lifters.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
You should have, here is a link to your bible.

 

[90 Talon AWD]

Whats up everybody just got done with the timing belt and B/S belt job with also a used head on it because i belt broke and bent all of the intake valves. So anyways got all of the work done start her up and she runs and idles fine but when i went for the test drive when i get to about 4500 to 5000 rpms it roars really load and then when i shift i can the gas pedal the gear shifter viberate bad. does anybody know what this is. Thanks for the hlep.

 

[awild]

Ok picked up a 95 TSI AWD yesterday. Didnt have any trouble driving 1hr home. Started it up today and now theres a loud metallic grinding noise (almost like a starter that you keep cranking when the cars on already). The harmonic balancer had a bad gash out of it so replaced that and still the noise. Car idles sometimes good and then down to 500 in this vid. Also, car throws no CELs even on my OBDII scanner.

Seems to be near the timing area, is louder under the car. Yeah had the cover on the cam for a few seconds.

YouTube - DSM Noise