Engine Build

[rob_drake2]

Alright I was looking at MAP's site and they have a create your own engine internal and cylinder head component packages. I was wondering if anyone has bought these or if they cover everything for the engine to rebuild it.

here's the links:
http://www.maperformance.com/create-your-own-cylinder-head-component-package-dsm.html
http://www.maperformance.com/map-2.0l-stage-2-engine-internal-rebuild-kit-dsm-7-bolt-evo.html

I picked out what parts I want if it's good deal and need help on deciding if they are good or there are better parts out of the list they offer.

Here's the Engine:
Crankshaft: Manley Forged
Connecting rods: Manley I-Beams
Pistons: Wiseco 1400HD .020/.040 (Not sure which one would be best. I was considering the .040)
Bearings: ACL Main & Rod + Thrust
Main Studs: ARP

Here's the Head:
Adjustable Cam Gears: AEM
Camshafts: HKS 280
Hydraulic Lifters: ITM Revised Lifters
Rocker Arms: OEM Mitsubishi
Valve Guides: Ferrea
Valve Locks: Ferrea
Valve Seals: Ferrea
Valve Springs/Retainers: Manley
Valves: Manley

If there is anything that is recommended instead of what I have listed let me know. I don't know much about the engine rebuilding part but I have all the bolt-ons I need. Any more info that is needed let me know. Thanks for the help.

 

[mercaholik]

If your building for like 700whp then those Manley forged parts are a good idea. I wouldn't go .40 unless needed, it gives you more cylinder head sealing area and more meat in the cylinder to help keep it round under pressure. Also should something happen in the future you have room to machine out any gouged area in the cylinder. Plus you won't notice any difference in power with going an extra .20 over what's needed. Also if your looking at forged I beams and crank you might wanna use l19 arp studs instead of the regular studs. Far as the head if your gonna buy new rockers, get evo 9 rockers and retainers. There lighter and forged so stronger too. You should get some/do yourself mild port work done with the head off and you'll need a valve job anyway putting new valves in.

 

[synthetek]

Pistons: Wiseco 1400HD .020/.040 (Not sure which one would be best. I was considering the .040)

That would be determined by the condition of your block, you should have the block checked by a machinist or the engine builder before buying pistons & bearings so they can determine what sizes are needed.

 

[mitsubishikid]

It makes sense to have the block and head inspected by a reputable machine shop, before you throw money at parts that might not work out for your build.

As far as springs retainers go, I'd say get the Kiggly beehive springs, retainers,washers kit. they are regarded as the highest revving valve spring setup out there, and they cost pretty much close to the same as their competition.

Otherwise I think the list you made is okay brand wise, but as another member has stated already, don't go with the .40 over pistons, I think if you can get away with the .20 over it would be more ideal.

 

[rob_drake2]

Alright that helps out a lot. I won't go over the .20 just in case. I'm pretty sure everything in the engine is in top condition since the guy I bought it before had it checked and replaced/rebuilt pretty much everything in there with the stock parts, plus I had my mechanic check it out when I first bought it a couple years ago and said the engine was like brand new.

@mercaholik Yeah I forgot to mention that someone told me about the l19's and they said they were better. So if the stock rocker arms are good should I just stay with those or should I just go ahead and replace them with the Evo 9's? and how would that affect if I decided to go with the Kiggly Beehive Springs/Retainers?

@mitsubishikid Alright i'll probably go with the Kiggly Beehive item instead.

So this is all that would be needed for the engine/head internals to upgrade/rebuild?

Thanks for the ideas and help. I'll still get the engine checked out and make sure everything is good, then after that I guess i'll go ahead with this list and get it done. Anything else you might think of just let me know.

 

[mercaholik]

Well I would assume it would help with high rpm valve train stability. Not sure if it is worth the money unless they are used. I think I'm gonna go that route myself got the light/quicker revving aspect.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Use only oem oil seals, I read an article about how most of the after-market oil seals leak after a few months.
I had a felpro front and rear oil seal leak on me, after three months of use, I wish I read the article before my engine was together.

You can use the after-market gaskets, just substitute all the seals like the, cam seals, crank seals, and
[if you plan on keeping them] balance shaft oil seals.

Also make sure the block is machined with a torque plate, and have the crank inspected too.

...wait a minute is this a 7 bolt motor build?

if your build is a 7 bolt, ditch the L19 head studs, in favor of the maperformance H11 ones.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/map-ultimate-duty-h11-l19-head-studs.374753/ they have the dog point added on them [basically non threaded bottoms] which keep the bolts supported better, and help keep the head from lifting under really high boost. I don't think they make h11 head studs [with the dog point] for the 6 bolts just yet, but I could be wrong.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I used the felpro rear main seals 20 years never a oem one did just fine, .20 is good im running my block .20 does great for my goals, take your time and get the parts you want do some research if you need before getting parts. Nice list.

 

[rob_drake2]

@mitsubishikid Ok i'll keep that in mind when I'm looking at the seals and gaskets. I heard for the gaskets a lot of people like the fel-pro and that they work really well.

Yeah i'll make sure they check out all the engine and i'll be involved and look at everything when it's being worked on.

Yes this is a 7 bolt motor build. Ok those H11 look good and is a little cheaper too.

Thanks so far for everything and all the advice. I want this to be done right and try and get it done this first time and not spend any more money than I really have to.

So I'm curious of about how much hp this could possibly put out now? If I can get this done and have all the supporting Bolt-ons (which most I have now stored waiting to be installed) what would I be expecting or around about?

 

[mitsubishikid]

anyones guess how much power you will make, but I'd say tuning the whole setup is gonna determine how much power can be extracted, the performance parts your installing will add more reliability then stock components, but tuning and turbo selection are gonna also need to be added to the equation.

and I'm not trying to sway you away from felpro, to be fair, I have had good success with the brand on other things, like their composite head gaskets and some of the other seals they sell which I have used on my daily driver.

here is what jacks transmission has reported on the subject of seals.
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/seal-leaks

 

[mercaholik]

Good call on the 7 bolt block, didn't even think cause mines 6 bolt and I agree about the seals. Actually I personally ordered all those seals from him, and had a few questions about my trans and he was super helpful and informative, I would also say plan on having your whole new rotating assembly balanced. Both individually and as a unit, it's even better if you add the flywheel and clutch.

 

[rob_drake2]

Yeah i figured it'd be a long shot to even tell. I have a 20g turbo waiting to go on as the turbo though but I won't be running any e85 fuel or anything like that. I'd be happy getting to about 350 even but if it goes over i wouldn't be mad.

@mitsubishikid Hey if there is something better than felpro or has had better success I'd rather go with that. I'm just going by what people have said and what they've had success with. Which they mainly talk about is the head gasket.

@mercaholik Yeah I should've mentioned that in the first place, I forget a lot of people do that swap. I have a really good transmission place that I can take my car to and I just had the whole transmission looked at and had the clutch and all the other components replaced. The clutch kit I put in was an ACT 2600 and it's been working good for me so far.

 

[mercaholik]

I was reading in one of my tunning books that they had the pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, and pressure plate balanced as a unit. Said it really revved smooth to 9,500rpm, I know most people don't do it but it's just heads up.