Engine build questions

[The Gat]

Hey guys im going to be doing a build of my 1g short block soon. And i wanted some input on recommended MISC parts that i may have forgotton or that will make my time easier while building it.

Getting my block bored .20 over and my crank polished.

Things i have
Manley turbo tuff i beam rods
Weisco HD .20 pistons 8:5:1
AEM ems v1 (6 bolt)
ACL tri metal race bearings ( main and rod)
arp head studs
Balance shaft deleted already

Things i need still
HKS timing belt
Gates water pump/oil pump
Gasket set (thinking about getting the OEM set)
Motor mounts
oil (not sure what i should get)

 

[gst96spyderman]

Hey guys im going to be doing a build of my 1g short block soon. And i wanted some input on recommended MISC parts that i may have forgotton or that will make my time easier while building it.

Getting my block bored .20 over and my crank polished.

Things i have
Manley turbo tuff i beam rods
Weisco HD .20 pistons 8:5:1
AEM ems v1 (6 bolt)
ACL tri metal race bearings ( main and rod)
arp head studs
Balance shaft deleted already

Things i need still
HKS timing belt
Gates water pump/oil pump
Gasket set (thinking about getting the OEM set)
Motor mounts
oil (not sure what i should get)

Whats the build intended for? street/drag/autox? Are you bone stock or just haven't listed on profile?

 

[ZombieSix]

every seal and gasket.

 

[Aproductions]

Things i need still
HKS timing belt
Gates water pump/oil pump
Gasket set (thinking about getting the OEM set)
Motor mounts
oil (not sure what i should get)

OEM belt, oil pump, waterpump.
Get a felpro gasket set
and poly mounts

for oil, I got BP sae 30 break in oil

 

[The Gat]

OEM belt, oil pump, waterpump.
Get a felpro gasket set
and poly mounts

for oil, I got BP sae 30 break in oil

Why the OEM belt and stuff over Gates? ive heard its decent quality.

Whats the build intended for? street/drag/autox? Are you bone stock or just haven't listed on profile?

I want it to be a drag car mostly. And a highway queen. And i want to rev high (in the future of course not now or immediatly after buiild)
Right now its pretty much stock has a couple of things done to it.

Fuel pump
HKS 272
Supertech dual springs
stock valves
evo 8 lifters
evo 8 injectors
FPR
ACT 2600 clutch and stock trans

 

[ThunderChild]

i think the gates belt will be fine, and the water pump as well.

the oil pump, i would definitely get an OEM one as recommended.
the felpro gasket set is nice, but pricey.
and for oil, on break in you can pretty much choose. id go with a straight 30wt, and switch to whatever oil you plan on running after break in (i.e.- 15w40/20w50 etc.)

break in oils are very nice, but after being in contact with the royal purple, valvoline, schaeffer and motul oil sales reps and other execs, i was told essentially that for newer motors utilizing roller or shim and bucket type valve train, it is unneccessary to use "break-in" oil. this is just the information ive gathered and what i go on.

every rep told me to use standard, dino-derived 30wt for break in. thought that was kinda funny considering the money they make on that fancy break in oil.

neway, good luck with it, the rest of your setup looks alright.

 

[The Gat]

i think the gates belt will be fine, and the water pump as well.

the oil pump, i would definitely get an OEM one as recommended.
the felpro gasket set is nice, but pricey.
and for oil, on break in you can pretty much choose. id go with a straight 30wt, and switch to whatever oil you plan on running after break in (i.e.- 15w40/20w50 etc.)

break in oils are very nice, but after being in contact with the royal purple, valvoline, schaeffer and motul oil sales reps and other execs, i was told essentially that for newer motors utilizing roller or shim and bucket type valve train, it is unneccessary to use "break-in" oil. this is just the information ive gathered and what i go on.

every rep told me to use standard, dino-derived 30wt for break in. thought that was kinda funny considering the money they make on that fancy break in oil.

neway, good luck with it, the rest of your setup looks alright.

Yeah right now im not looking for high horse powers i just want to get it set up right then when the time comes put something nasty on there. (with money set aside for my trans)

 

[Grizzy]

Gates isn't bad but I'd go OEM for the T-belt, oil and water pump. Kendall Racing Oil T-1 is what I use. Make sure it has zinc additive though.

 

[gst96spyderman]

i think the gates belt will be fine, and the water pump as well.

the oil pump, i would definitely get an OEM one as recommended.
the felpro gasket set is nice, but pricey.
and for oil, on break in you can pretty much choose. id go with a straight 30wt, and switch to whatever oil you plan on running after break in (i.e.- 15w40/20w50 etc.)

break in oils are very nice, but after being in contact with the royal purple, valvoline, schaeffer and motul oil sales reps and other execs, i was told essentially that for newer motors utilizing roller or shim and bucket type valve train, it is unneccessary to use "break-in" oil. this is just the information ive gathered and what i go on.

every rep told me to use standard, dino-derived 30wt for break in. thought that was kinda funny considering the money they make on that fancy break in oil.

neway, good luck with it, the rest of your setup looks alright.

I used the cometic 1.6mm HG from extremepsi, oem h20 pump, and oem thermostat on my latest engine rebuild. Its still 160-165 across board as of 1 month ago.

The oil question will go nowhere. There are a lot of opinions on this that will differ. IMO, since you are going to just change it after 50 miles while breaking in, there is no possible way that you engine can receive and true benefits from any type of oil. Again, just my opinion. Just search it and see what appeals to you. It won't hurt to run "break-in oil" or synthetic, just seems like a waste.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power This is a popular technique that is proven to work.

As far as gates vs oem on the timing belt, I like gates as a company, and I think they make quality parts. I have seen a gates TB that had 1/2 the width knocked out from it from a quarter inch section, and was strong enough to hold to get a friends DSM to my house. Lucky, yes, but also very strong also.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

I'm not sure you're budget, but I also replaced my main and rod bearings when replacing HG. Well, I had someone else do most of the work. You also need to get you some gauges. Boost,oil pressure, WB, oil temp, water temp. In that order. Not sure what the AEM ems v1 does for you specifically, so I say this. ^^

How about suspension and brakes. I would LOVE to get a big brake kit, but not in my budget yet.

Of course maintenance then pleasure. GL

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes the gates blue belt is a good choice, but for a few dollars less you can get the EVO IX belt, and that is a kevlar backed belt too.

If the engine is going to see more street duty than track, sell off the ACL race bearings and get regular ACL,King or Clevites.

I would recommend since the block is being bored .020 have the block deck surfaced.
Good chance it has some sort of imperfection to it, being 20 years old and who knows how many failed HG.

Also have the rotating assembly balance

 

[My1GLaser]

What fuel are you running? What boost do you plan on what turbo? I went with 9:1 CR and never really had any issues on pump gas til about 28-30 psi with 18-19* timing. That was on a small frame turbo out of its efficiency range.

After a couple resurfaces and switching to a composite HG, I am about 9.3:1 and very happy with the performance. Now I run 60% E-85 and an HX-35 at that boost.

 

[The Gat]

What fuel are you running? What boost do you plan on what turbo? I went with 9:1 CR and never really had any issues on pump gas til about 28-30 psi with 18-19* timing. That was on a small frame turbo out of its efficiency range.

After a couple resurfaces and switching to a composite HG, I am about 9.3:1 and very happy with the performance. Now I run 60% E-85 and an HX-35 at that boost.

I plan on running e-85 with 35+lbs of boost. But thats when i get my big boy turbo and trans.

Yes the gates blue belt is a good choice, but for a few dollars less you can get the EVO IX belt, and that is a kevlar backed belt too.

If the engine is going to see more street duty than track, sell off the ACL race bearings and get regular ACL,King or Clevites.

I would recommend since the block is being bored .020 have the block deck surfaced.
Good chance it has some sort of imperfection to it, being 20 years old and who knows how many failed HG.

Also have the rotating assembly balance

Why do you recommend going regular over the race series? Does the race serier wear quicker than the standard? I do plan on pushing the car hard and abusing it.

And ill look into the Evo ix belt!

And do i need the head resurfaced too if i get the block decked? I plan on not touching the head for now.

 

[BogusSVO]

Why do you recommend going regular over the race series? Does the race serier wear quicker than the standard? I do plan on pushing the car hard and abusing it.

And ill look into the Evo ix belt!

And do i need the head resurfaced too if i get the block decked? I plan on not touching the head for now.

If this is a track only car, and you are going to be changing oil every other race, Run the ACL race.

There is very little embedablity to the race bearings so the crank wears faster.


I would have the head surfaced, and new seals installed at a min.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Bogus, I think I met you at a gas station off Pensacola BLVD a few years back... I was in a blk/blk GST Spyder... Anyways, I agree with all this. I don't know as much as Bogus, but I know that there may have been times in this VR-4's life where the HG did blow and that may have not been treated properly.

The Gates Racing timing belt is rated to be 300x stronger than oem .Check the link for extremepsi I posted and that'll tell you the difference. I have no knowledge on the evo 9 timing belt.

You also need to get you some bigger injectors. 1000cc+. Since you're going to basically be rebuilding the entire block, why not do it completely. DSM_BOY’s 800hp Goal/ AWD Conversion/6 Bolt Build - Mitsu-Media Great build and checklist to follow.

 

[The Gat]

The Gates Racing timing belt is rated to be 300x stronger than oem .Check the link for extremepsi I posted and that'll tell you the difference. I have no knowledge on the evo 9 timing belt.

You also need to get you some bigger injectors. 1000cc+. Since you're going to basically be rebuilding the entire block, why not do it completely. DSM_BOY’s 800hp Goal/ AWD Conversion/6 Bolt Build - Mitsu-Media Great build and checklist to follow.

Cash is tight right now. And i can always add bigger injectors when i get a bigger turbo and such. For now i just want it set up proper and maintained well with alot of room for power in the future.

 

[The Gat]

Hey so another question. I am going to be pulling the motor out in a couple hours and taking it to the machine shop.

Should i go with the manufactures recommended PTW clearance with my Wiseco HD's or should i go with a little bit more room. Ive read on here some people have had trouble with the recommended PTW clearance from Wiseco. what do you guys think.