Engine build help- goal and parts.

[ttsrq]

So I recently did a compression test and found that my compression was getting very low, 140,118,120,111. I decided that im going to pull the motor and get it rebuilt before anything breaks and goes wrong.

My goal is to get around 400whp. I will be running a Evo3B16g. Yes I know that with the turbo I most likely wont reach my goal. The problem im having is getting all of the parts sorted away. I live in Canada and there is no local place I can find the parts so I have to order it all through the States. So I DO NOT want to have to reorder parts because something was left out. Also if any one has any bad/good experiences with the parts im ordering please speak up. Or if you find something that is missing.

Block:

Eagle H beam rods
Wiseco 8.3 CR .020 over
ACL race rod bearings
ACL race main bearings
ARP main studs
ARP headstuds
Cometic metal headgasket
Top line freeze plugs
Top line oil pump assembly
OEM waterpump assembly
OEM timing belt kit
Balance shaft delete kit

Head:
Top line revised lifters
BC SS exhaust valves
BC SS intake valves
BC 272 cams
BC valvesprings and retainers
Cometic complete gasket kit

All of these parts are off extremepsi. I would appreciate it if some one could confirm if these are all of the parts I need. I will be doing the bottom end by my self, minus all of the machine work.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

You don't need that much for a 400hp build. A stock block will handle that with ease.

Block:

1g rods
2g pistons .020 over
clevite rod bearings
clevite main bearings
oem main studs
ARP headstuds
oem headgasket
Top line freeze plugs
OEM oil pump assembly with straight cut gears
OEM waterpump assembly
OEM timing belt kit
Balance shaft delete kit

Head:
Top line revised lifters
BC SS exhaust valves
BC SS intake valves
BC 272 cams
BC valvesprings and retainers
Cometic complete gasket kit

 

[4g64fiero]

I would leave the head completely alone. You dont need to do anything at all to the head for 400 hp. Infact, keep the stock intake manifold as well. A 2g exhaust manifold would be a nice and cheap up grade.

I would keep the ACL race bearings.

ARP headstuds are no better than stock save the l19/h11 tool steel studs. The stockers will be fine unless you knock alot.

I would use an OEM MLS head gasket.

As far as internals go there is no point in having anything other than OEM rods and pistons at that power level. 1g pistons are fine and so are 2g. People like the 2g pistons because theyre slightly higher in compression.

You also dont need an oem water pump assembly. The ones from parts dinosaur are 100 bucks cheaper and the same quality. There should also be no reason to change the oil pump, maybe just refurbish it with new gears.

Also, gates timing belts are half the price and WELL respected.

A balance shaft kit is necessary anytime you have the chance to do it.

I would also change the rod bolts with ARP rod bolts as well. Just for the security. The rod bolts are the weak point in the stock rods.


The tools you use to assemble the engine are just as important. You will need a rod bolt stretch gauge/feeler gauge/nice torque wrench/and piston ring grinder.

Dont forget to get some new OEM piston rings.

 

[Rob10_99]

What do you have for tuning? I would up the CR to 9:1, better low end and off boost.

 

[DSM_PWR]

x3 for Longblock

Use the money on maintenace

 

[spooled_u_1st]

Yeh a stock head would be just fine. It was early in the morning and I missed the bottom of the copy/paste revised list.

Head:
Top line revised lifters
oem exhaust valves
oem intake valves
oem cams or BC 272 cams
oem valvesprings and retainers

Cometic complete gasket kit and an oem headgasket

 

[ttsrq]

x3 for Longblock

Use the money on maintenace

No one suggested getting a long block?

Also so after looking around for some OEM pistons and rods, I have found that they are like $600 together. For that price I might as well spend the extra $150 and get the wiseco's and eagle rods and not have to worry about breaking them. I guess im CURRENTLY going for about a 400whp build but I want to leave the option open going for bigger numbers with out having to touch the bottom end again.

Also why the clevite bearings over the ACL race series? From reading I have heard nothing but good things about the ACL race series. As for the top end work, I need new lifters badly and I figured once im in there I might as well do it right and not have to worry about it anymore in case I decide to push alot more hp. Also im having pretty bad knock issues so im not sure if maybe I have a chipped valve or something I don't know.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

No one suggested getting a long block?

Also so after looking around for some OEM pistons and rods, I have found that they are like $600 together. For that price I might as well spend the extra $150 and get the wiseco's and eagle rods and not have to worry about breaking them. I guess im CURRENTLY going for about a 400whp build but I want to leave the option open going for bigger numbers with out having to touch the bottom end again.

Sounds like you think like me. Over building never hurts.

Also why the clevite bearings over the ACL race series? From reading I have heard nothing but good things about the ACL race series.

Go with the acl race bearings if you would like. They are both great bearings. They are in my engine. I suggested the clevite because of friends having good success with them in mild built / street cars.

 

[ttsrq]

Ok I think thats what im going to go for with the bottom end then. As for the head I really dont know what I want, all I know is that I want to run some BC 272's. Dont want any stupid lifter click and want something that will work well. Im not sure if I need the springs and retainers and everything and if I need the oil pump assy and stuff. I just want to have something really reliable that I wont have to ever touch again engine wise.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

You should be just fine on a stock valve train with those cams for the stock rev limit.

Definitely go with an oem oil pump. I don't trust anything else.

 

[saechao04]

I am in the process of a rebuild myself, at first my goal was to just do a stock rebuild since at the moment I have no desire to go over 350 whp. However, I figured I would just shell out the extra 200 and go with some wiseco and manley combo and fp2 cams. I dont think I will regret it later when I want more power.

 

[slowgsr]

Hey OP. This what I recommend.

Purchase your parts though extremepsi.com or JNZ tuning, find the rep for JNZ on here, there both great places to deal with for us international customers, and if you ask them nicely they can help you out wtih the amount of duty and brokerage that will need to be paid on packages.

I myself just buit a motor. Im shooting for high 6's low 7's hp range.. 145+ traps. Weisco pistons, 9:1, manley turbo tuff rods, acl race bearings, arp mainstuds, kiggly gridle, line hone, deck etc.. all machine work done with torque plate installed. 4 thous p2w clearance. The head will have some kelford cams, kiggly beehive springs, topline revised lifters and some mild porting. The block is done, the head I have yet to start on.

Heres what I would do If i were you.

Weisco 9:1 20 over. p2w is up to you, spec is 2.5 thous, but I think thats too tight for anything over 450hp.
eagle rods are a great off the shelf rod for basic builds.
have the block hot tanked, and magnafluxed, polish the crank and have it inspected, a quick bore and deck to clean it all up, and than re-assemble.
stock main bolts are fine as well.

I would stick to all oem parts for anything like a gasket/seal, water pump, oil pump etc. Use the stock oil pump case to save money, get straight cut drive and driven oil pump gears (all mitstu stuff), and a mitsu gasket set. Stick with a mitsu mls headgasket and some arp headstuds. Copper spray is excellent to use on gaskets that you wouldn't use a very thin film of silicone on. I either use silicone or copper spray on every gasket!

for the head, stick with oem valves, and valvetrain. Unless you want to rev past 7500. The kelford 272 cam is an great cam. topline revised lifters and you should be good to go with the head, just a quick deck to clean it up as well. Oh yeah, might as well change the valve guides and seals.

Id recommend the JM Fab SMIM just the 'street' version. The race one dosen't flow any more and seems to have more difference in flow between the runners, not worth the extra money IMO.

Search for a thread called 'rely-on-ability' its a 6 bolt buildup thread, LOTS of good info in there.

Do the BSE kit as well, and port your oil pump and the do the oil flow mod to the head as well.

Goodluck! A good balance of your rods pistons and crank is always good to do, but not nescesary, my rods were almost bang on when I got them, (but I used a higher end rod) and the pistons were fairly close as well, but perfect is better than 'close' All depends on your budget !