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Emissions removal issue?

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92AWDTalonTSI

92AWDTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
334
7
Jun 2, 2010
Somonauk, Illinois
Will improper emission removal cause low or high idle. Also after giving up on searching because the servers keep timing out when I search. I was wondering if it is the same to just remove everything connected to the EGR as it is to just remove it and install a blockoff plate.

The emission removal on my neighbor's car is a bit iffy. The "P" vac line splits three times and the boost gauge isn't even hooked up. Weird huh? There are quite a few lines still hooked up under there. Most of them going places I have no clue what they are. The P.O. said he couldn't get the idle to go down. I believe the BISS O-Ring is good still and the timing is correct. But it still idles around 1500.
 
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my egr is still there just not hooked up and stuff.. did you cap the fitting off on the throttle body after taking it off?
 
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92AWDTalonTSI said:
Thanks for the link. Every one I tried following the past few days was old and no longer worked. I saw this about a month ago but didn't bookmark it.
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No worries:thumb:

Like I said in my post, as long as you don't have to worry about emission testing in your state, you can remove a lot of potential vac/air leaks by removing almost every vac line associated with the emission stuff, e.g. EGR charcoal canister, fuel purge regulator, etc.etc.

Once you have that done, do a good boost leak test and then if you're still having idle issues, then you can work from a good base of at least having the leaks eliminated.
 
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You need to block off your EGR valve with a block off plate. Otherwise it can leak and cause idle problems. Even if you have emissions testing in your state, as long as you retain your cat you should be fine. I have no ECR, charcoal canister, or vac lines and I've always passed the sniff test.
 
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9!'clipseDOHC said:
You need to block off your EGR valve with a block off plate. Otherwise it can leak and cause idle problems. Even if you have emissions testing in your state, as long as you retain your cat you should be fine. I have no ECR, charcoal canister, or vac lines and I've always passed the sniff test.
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Yeah..:thumb: I kinda assumed that blocking off the EGR would be done. You'll need some RTV and maybe a new gasket just to be safe, but make your own plate if you can out of some sheet plate and a hacksaw and grinder. Or you can buy EGR blockoff plates for a price on ebay and such, but i'd make your own if you can.
I can't speak for the sniff tests, here in SC we don't have any:D and I don't have a CAT on mine either, but my car is going to be a weekend track car when done anyway. But like "9!"clipse", says, he passes then go for it.:p
 
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Well I'm out in the boondocks of Illinois. Like 30 minutes south of NIU. No emission testing here and never hopefully. The car was purchased out of Chicago though. I don't know of any testing there.

But the EGR is in place. Nothing is hooked up to it though. I wanted to make a block-off plate for my own car. Maybe I'll make 2.

How thick would you recommend making the plate. Would a thick piece of diamond plate work? It's say,.. 1/8th of an inch thick.
 
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92AWDTalonTSI said:
Well I'm out in the boondocks of Illinois. Like 30 minutes south of NIU. No emission testing here and never hopefully. The car was purchased out of Chicago though. I don't know of any testing there.

But the EGR is in place. Nothing is hooked up to it though. I wanted to make a block-off plate for my own car. Maybe I'll make 2.

How thick would you recommend making the plate. Would a thick piece of diamond plate work? It's say,.. 1/8th of an inch thick.
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I know the ones you can buy are usually 1/4" so that's what I would use. If you have a junkyard near you, the 1.8L 1g DSM's have the block off plate from the factory and it fits perfectly on our 4G63's.

Hope this helps!
 
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92AWDTalonTSI said:
Very much so. So that means you can get a Mitsu branded block off plate with a part number and everything.... wow.

Talk about convenience. Almost like the balance shaft removal kits.. Mostly OEM.
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That is correct. It's the same one I'm using on mine. Make sure you grab the shorter bolts too.
 
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I was just about to say. After searching junkyards for a non-cruise throttle cable I noticed the factory EGR blockoff plate on one so I snagged it along with the bolts. works great and doesn't leak. Oh and dont forget to reuse your metal gasket!
 
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Ok, so I am about to do this procedure to my 1G. I don't have a MBC, is that something that I must have in order to do this? Also I don't have an aftermarket boost gauge, will my crappy stock gauge still work after doing this procedure?
 
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Wringer said:
Ok, so I am about to do this procedure to my 1G. I don't have a MBC, is that something that I must have in order to do this? Also I don't have an aftermarket boost gauge, will my crappy stock gauge still work after doing this procedure?
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Yes, you can remove your emissions without messing up your boost gauge or needing a MBC. Block off the EGR, remove the charcoal canister, block off the vac lines on the throttle body. You can do all of that, just don't remove the BCS (boost control solenoid).

109074d1272601755-my-mbc-lines-ran-wrong-vaclinemod2.gif

Like this except don't mess with the BCS, Ignore the MBC (it's hooked up wrong anyways).

Hope this helps!
 
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9!'clipseDOHC said:
Boost Control Solenoid and Wastegate Solenoid are the same thing. Just leave that in place and remove all the emissions stuff.
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Ok, thanks for the quick responses!

Alright, new question. What about the vacuum lines coming for the thermostat housing, it is ok to just plug those?
 
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Wringer said:
Ok, thanks for the quick responses!

Alright, new question. What about the vacuum lines coming for the thermostat housing, it is ok to just plug those?
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I think you're talking about the "thermovalve", that's on the housing. If you're removing your vac' lines, yes, you can remove the valve and plug it with a NPT brass plug from Home Depot Racing :p or you can just pull the vac lines off.
 
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LKWTSI said:
I think you're talking about the "thermovalve", that's on the housing. If you're removing your vac' lines, yes, you can remove the valve and plug it with a NPT brass plug from Home Depot Racing :p or you can just pull the vac lines off.
Click to expand...

Yes, either remove the lines and just leave the nipples there or remove the whole thing and replace it with a 3/8 NPT pipe plug.
 
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When it's cold it idles around 2k then if I blip the throttle it will begin surging, usually after it is warm. There is no engine light on, and when I turn on the a/c idle drops to around 1k and holds steady.
 
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Wringer said:
When it's cold it idles around 2k then if I blip the throttle it will begin surging, usually after it is warm. There is no engine light on, and when I turn on the a/c idle drops to around 1k and holds steady.
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Sounds like your ISC (Idle Speed Controller). There is a very easy way to test it, unbolt it from the throttle body (it's just held on with 2, 10mm bolts), and have a friend turn the key to the "ON" position a few times. The ISC should move in and out. If it jsut shakes or doesn't do anything then it is no good. Check out this video to see what it should look like:
DSM ISC
*Video was made by snowborder714
 
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