Electrical / Voltage problem

[1997 Eclipse]

My problem seems to be voltage. When I first turn the car on with A/C the voltage start at approx 13.5v. At night with the lights and stereo on, after 1 - 2 hours of driving, if I come to a stop, my voltage reagding will drop to about 9.9v. If I rev the car the voltage will increase to approx 12 - 13. I have HKS 264/272 and a idle of approx 650 rpm. I have just bought a new alternator from Satan because I thought the initial problem was the alternator. My alternator - batttery cable is original. The stereo (400w amp + 120w amplified Sub) is not conneted to the battery directly, I will change this. What is the problem? Do I have to change the cable. Will grounding wires help.

Dan

 

[LightningGSX]

So let me get this straight, No matter how many thousands of vehicles that use the components and methods I previously posted(safely and with excellent results), unless you can read them in a book they are not true? You don't even know the most elementary of equations, and I should get a engineering handbook? I do in fact own several of the best engineering books(from SAE).I think you must learn to differentiate between ideal numbers in books and real world measured numbers.And I would love to see you show me what is untrue in other posts of mine.It might appear I like igniting "flame wars", but I just like to see correct info in these forums.You post incorrect info, I try to correct it (with tried and trued, easily verifiable info) then you attack my intelligence and my character and I am the bad guy? You offered no proof of your current calculations(which were way off) or proof of anything else,just your credentials and various other aspects of your life.In your mind etiquette in forums might be above correctness of information ,but not in mine.

 

[1997 Eclipse]

Guys, Thanks for the info and different views but lets keep our cool. We are all here to help each other. Lightning GSX, you mentioned "run your new fuel pump relay directly to the battery". The Lightning Audio Fuse box is wired directly to the battery via 4 gauge wire. It has 4 - 8 gauge outlets. What are the problems of connecting the fuel pump directly to the fuse box (which goes directly to the battery)

Thanks,

Dan

 

[LightningGSX]

So long as you have at a least a 4 gauge wire running to that fuse box, I don't see much of a problem.I would however, check and make sure no voltage drop exists between your battery and your fuel pump.Otherwise this would defeat the purpose of the fuel pump mod.I think GTM could agree with this also.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by LightningGSX
So let me get this straight, No matter how many thousands of vehicles that use the components and methods I previously posted(safely and with excellent results), unless you can read them in a book they are not true? You don't even know the most elementary of equations, and I should get a engineering handbook? I do in fact own several of the best engineering books(from SAE).I think you must learn to differentiate between ideal numbers in books and real world measured numbers.And I would love to see you show me what is untrue in other posts of mine.It might appear I like igniting "flame wars", but I just like to see correct info in these forums.You post incorrect info, I try to correct it (with tried and trued, easily verifiable info) then you attack my intelligence and my character and I am the bad guy? You offered no proof of your current calculations(which were way off) or proof of anything else,just your credentials and various other aspects of your life.In your mind etiquette in forums might be above correctness of information ,but not in mine.

Let's see, this post and the preceding posts don't qualify as insulting as well as inflamitory.

The word pedant could best describe this crap except that would suggest some basis for knowledge.

Not only has that been overlooked it has been further exacerbated with reckles abandon demonstrating a discriminatory prejudice towards older members of society as a collective. So credential and working knowledge be hanged the intent is to upstage anyone who may know more than you.

http://www.autoshop101.com/asetest/asetest5.html

I could be mistaken but there was mention I held Master Mechanic's certification when it was also known as NAISE. So if the above site is not enough again let me help you with some more places.
http://lib1.store.vip.sc5.yahoo.com/lib/globalresourceoptions/ChargeControl.html
http://www.qsl.net/wb3gck/gel-cell.htm

I guess you missed that chapter in that collection of books. I didn't need to reference what I stated for it came from decades as a professional. I'll state it again you never design a system without adding a safety margin. Did you miss that chapter too.

It would appear you have no credentials or you would have offered them supporting anything you have stated. I tossed out numbers, rounded them off for simplification and illustrative purposes. Again you were there trying to upstage what was intended. No, that wasn't enough here you come again and again with more BS. It is my opinion you are still a $7.00/ hr radio installer with bad manners. That's my opinion and does not necessarily reflect the owners or moderators of this board

Let's see there was the headlight statement in which the word quad was mentioned yet there you were and still are trying to refute what I've written. I guess you have not driven too many of 'em furrin jobbies on a mountain road after dark or you would know that pulling the headlight beam switch half way back will engage both high and low beams at the same time. You cite Detroit automakers have been installing dual batteries without an isolater. It is common knowledge that a Detroit engineer will sell his grandmother's soul for 1 mil profit savings on every car they produce. That doesn't make it right, only that they can get away with it.

Here's your homework assignment, pull up every post I've ever made on this board. Find anything that was not accurate or would invalidate anything I've posted here which supports your falacious slanderous crap. Waving the flag of what a good guy you are for saving the world is delusional. Read and re-read before shooting self in foot while out on that limb of pretense. I may be just a country boy with no high fullitin education but I know a BS artist when I see 'em.

 

[LightningGSX]

There you go again, more attacks on my intelligence and more about your credentials and still no correct useful information.I did in fact see the word QUAD, what does that have to do with anything? Do this somehow explain your disregard of simple mathematics? Last I checked I made a lot more than $7 an hour, again what's your point? I have nothing but respect for the "older car guys", I would also agree you probably have more knowledge and experience than I do overall.Just not on this subject, face it you were wrong, it happens sometimes.You can't always be right,myself included.So get over it... act your age,put away your dictionary, and end this stupid argument.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by LightningGSX
There you go again, more attacks on my intelligence and more about your credentials and still no correct useful information.
...
I have nothing but respect for the "older car guys", I would also agree you probably have more knowledge and experience than I do overall.Just not on this subject, face it you were wrong, it happens sometimes.You can't always be right,myself included.So get over it... act your age,put away your dictionary, and end this stupid argument.

You should have taken your own advice before you pressed send on your first post. Hmmm no homework today tsktsktsk. Mind you there are retorical sentences to follow.

Wasn't it you who was attacking my intelegence by insisting that charging rates were 13.8v, wasn't it you who _stated_ draw was in the order of 15 amps when everything was on or was I just having a senior moment. You open your mouth without checking facts and then try to bully your way through with yet more S..T!! It is obvious you have misrepresented yourself and the facts. I can keep pulling up web sites to refute all your upstage nonsense.

Again I'll state it is my opinion you should stick to what you know and not pretend to be something you are not. If you don't learn that lesson you will be discovered just as it has happened here. So build a variable prebel lapse tuner and make a bundle. You will be the first person I'll consult when I don't know something about automotive electrical systems... not.

You want to provoke, not with the position of playing devils advocate, not with the intent of learning something, only to indulge your ego at the expense of others. Your statement was I should get a multimeter as if the 7 place unit sitting along side me is just for show. What kind of a snot nose provocative bunch of bs. And yes I came before multimeters and LCDs, even wave soldered printed circuits. I come from the school when something broke you fixed it, maybe even improved it along the way, that should have given you a clue I wasn't off base when I cite you never design anything without adding a safety factor. Your still here passing off your stinking attitude you have wasted my time refuting everything yet have shown nothing but bs.
It's doubtful you have even taken any course in ee or physics. It is obvious you are not at the top of anything related to the automotive industry.

The ONLY remote truth that I can find was that a 1 farad cap can be used to handle the bass demand of a 1000w transistor amp. And then you didn't even provide correct info on how it was wired but you were right there passing yourself off as some expert.

They predicted 10 years ago people like you would infiltrate the internet, no respect for anyone but yourself. You cannot accept the word _NO_ from anyone, website owners who set forth the rules and then flaunt it in our face with your flag waving claiming your is the only truth. What's that saying... you can fool some of the people some of the time~

Yes, I do have a command of the english language and a college education that I paid for, what's your excuse. I also know when some arse is acting like a pimple on my back side and I don't take kindly to phonies like you. Needless to say I'll stay away from anything on this list that has your name on it. Read my lips _DO NOT_ try and pull this stunt again with me.

GTM

 

[LightningGSX]

As I look back in the posts, I see YOU started picking apart everything I said, after I hurt your ego with one simple math correction.You want to talk about BS, your posts are a mile long, and contain little if any real information. The more I think about it, I would like to hear what you think the "standard" charging voltage is.Considering charge voltage is dependant on temperature, battery type(lead-calcium or calcium-antimony), vehicle manufacturer, etc.If you would like to argue your factless opinion some more, do so in PMs.I repeat.....

Originally posted by LightningGSX
There you go again, more attacks on my intelligence and more about your credentials and still no correct information.I did in fact see the word QUAD, what does that have to do with anything? Do this somehow explain your disregard of simple mathematics? Last I checked I made a lot more than $7 an hour, again what's your point? I have nothing but respect for the "older car guys", I would also agree you probably have more knowledge and experience than I do overall.Just not on this subject, face it you were wrong, it happens sometimes.You can't always be right,myself included.So get over it... act your age,put away your dictionary, and end this stupid argument.

 

[turboslug]

Oh yeah , this shit is funny!
On installing a cap. If you can't figure that out, don't buy a DSM. Then somebody mentioned the fact that nobody even asked if he had tested his alt. , common sense has just started talkin to me. I have a 1000w RF Power, max current draw 60 amps. How often does that happen even at full vol. The beat hits, the beat hits, the beat hits. Caps are the best way to go, and yes you can use more than 1. Caps work good because they charge almost instantly, and release almost instantly. SO when beat hits, caps drains. I have so little knowledge of charging systems, voltage to amperage to wattage. But I do know that if done correctly, There will never be any need for a larger alt, and yes you can listen to it at full tilt at night. I would suggest one thing, an Optima. They are spendy, but they are worth it. 1 thing that I have seen done (with no research avail) is to change the pully size on the alt to an even smaller size. Another even more far fetched idea I've seen done is dual alts. Now thats over engineering at its best

(not an any particular order)
1- min 4 awg main wire
2- fuse w/in 1ft of batt (usually 60 amp)
3- 1 central ground for the whole stereo (excluding deck), use large ground wire(s)
4- voltage meter (just like boost, keep an eye on it)
5- Keep it down for your ears sake, not your cars. If you don't like your ears, bump away.
6- Who needs a/c, power of both kinds is better anyway.
7- who said over engineering is bad. Someday you might just upgrade.
8-clean sound is better than loud sound. though it may cost more to get loud CLEAN sound that just LOUD sound, in time you won't regret it.

I myself have had my problems of power loss and dead batts. Its all part of learning, and unless you have first hand experience how will you ever know for sure. You don't need to know everything, just have some common sense.