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egr removal

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1fast97gsx

20+ Year Contributor
4,517
17
Jul 6, 2003
Orland Park, Illinois
All these lines can be traced to where they come from and taken out of the car completely right? Just make sure the electronics stay plugged in?

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1fast97gsx said:
All these lines can be traced to where they come from and taken out of the car completely right? Just make sure the electronics stay plugged in?

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Your factory service manual tells you exactly where they all go. keeping a few pictures will help you as well. Just leave the electronics pluged in.
 

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DSMJim said:
Your factory service manual tells you exactly where they all go. keeping a few pictures will help you as well. Just leave the electronics pluged in.

Oh sorry if my question wasn't clear .. I was asking that if I trace the lines the where the come from and just take them off the car then that's all I have to do right besides the block off plate? I capped the nipples on the throttle body, do I have to cap anything else?
 
On that note from Defiant, remember the EGR is held closed at WOT and does not even re-circulate exahust. So you will get no power increase. You will only get worse gas mileage at parth throttle driving and not be able to pass emissions. There are no upsides to removing the EGR at all. You can hide those connectors and hoses under the intake manifold if you want to get rid of the BS under the hood.
 
i guess the only benefit would be a lack of wieght, i know its small, but it adds up
 
We are forgetting the main point of removing the EGR here. LESS VACUUM LINES, LESS LINES TO CHECK FOR BOOST LEAKS, LESS PROBLEMS IN THE FUTURE, NO BCS.
 
DSMAWDPOWER said:
We are forgetting the main point of removing the EGR here. LESS VACUUM LINES, LESS LINES TO CHECK FOR BOOST LEAKS, LESS PROBLEMS IN THE FUTURE, NO BCS.

so, if you remove the EGR, you don't need to leave the BCS in there? is that what your saying? looking at the EGR, it returns exhasut through such a small hole, its so marginal it doesn't even seem like it makes a difference. :confused:
 
BCS is what a factory Boost Controller would be read the Tabbo link Defiant linked. To answer your question no you do not need your BCS and yes that little hole does make a difference. Ever try remove the restictor in the BCS that little hole now became a little bigger and has given some people 2-3 more psi.
 
I have the BCS hooked up properly, and my egr oh and the restrictor for the bcs is still in and I run 15psi or and boost level perfectly fine for that matter. Once you have a mbc or ebc(for those rich people out there) the bcs doesnt really matter on boost control so why not justy leave it in....and dont give me that less weight crap for either system it would be less then 2lbs for both systems. Oh and taking the egr would be the biggest waste of time as said before by me and many others there is no up side to it at all.
Andrew
 
like has been stated on this site hundreds of times before there are no performance gains from this mod. as stated before it may, will hurt you gas milage. all it does is let you clean up the engine bay alittle with lines and emissions. its totally a personal preference clean up engine bay sacrafice gas mileage or good gas mileage more stuff in the bay. :thumbdown :thumb: :confused:
 
i know you need a mbc to do this but what about the fps. according to taboo you just take out the fps and run the fpr straight to the intake manifold. is there any ill effects from this? would you need to already have an afpr??? any insist may help :confused:
 
JBeclipse1 said:
i know you need a mbc to do this but what about the fps. according to taboo you just take out the fps and run the fpr straight to the intake manifold. is there any ill effects from this? would you need to already have an afpr??? any insist may help :confused:

No you do not need an aftermarket FPR its just showing you where all that mess goes to.

I dont see where yall come up with bad gas milage. I still get the same exact thing. My friends 1990 AWD Talon gets better do to Todd Day Chip, SAFC, MAF-T, Injectors, and Fuel Pump.... Its all in what your setup is and has involved.

I prefer it do to less hasel trying to eliminate boost leak. Try it like it leave it..... Try it dont like it put it back! As stated before its a personal preference but as far as the gas milage goes ?????? I have no idea mines fine!
 
i have also heard the 2g dont need the block off plate because there is not vacum to open the egr so it stays shut. is this true?? :confused:
 
my reason for getting rid of it was just the fact that it cleaned up the engine bay, less lines to check for boost leaks, and its pretty easy to do. I was getting a CEL for P0400 which was an "EGR flow fault" code ... however even with the egr gone now I still get the code :confused: .
 
Correct, no block off plate *required* with 2g. However, you might want to use one so that the EGR doesn't get all caked up with carbon (should you need to hook it back up again).

I've got the phantom P0400 CEL error too. Tearing my hair out trying to fix it. I've redone all the vacuum lines, replaced the solenoids (they tested bad), pulled and inspected the EGR valve itself. Only thing I haven't checked yet is my MDP sensor yet (because I'm not sure where it got put when the 1g intake mani was installed (downside to not doing all your own work)). I can tell by the EGT's that my EGR is indeed functioning (if I pull the valve out of the vacuum loop (disabling it), my EGT's go up 25C at cruising).

BTW, others have already said it, but I will also say it. Please keep your EGR... People ripping the emissions equipment off of their cars makes it worse for ALL of us in many ways.
 
Bam, back from the dead. I didn't want to start a new thread, but couldn't really find my answer.

No my problem is that the EGR is stuck open creating a nice size boost leak. My options are to replace it, or block it off. The cheapest I could find a new replacement was around $78. A block-of plate is what, $10 shipped at most? So, which you do, and why?

I would rather keep my EGR, so if you know of somewhere to get new ones for a good price, let me know.

This is the best deal I found: http://autozone.com/selectedZip,273...itialvehicleId,2400101/shopping/selectZip.htm
 
TSIMonsteR said:
Bam, back from the dead. I didn't want to start a new thread, but couldn't really find my answer.

No my problem is that the EGR is stuck open creating a nice size boost leak. My options are to replace it, or block it off. The cheapest I could find a new replacement was around $78. A block-of plate is what, $10 shipped at most? So, which you do, and why?

I would rather keep my EGR, so if you know of somewhere to get new ones for a good price, let me know.

This is the best deal I found: http://autozone.com/selectedZip,273...itialvehicleId,2400101/shopping/selectZip.htm







Or you could make one yourself with a soda can cutout.

And why would you want a brand new EGR valve? A used one will work just fine. Just post up a WTB ad in the DSMtuners Classifieds section or in your local forum Classifieds section. No need to buy a new one Jake, unless you've got money coming out your ears. Or you've got one of those rare money trees in your back yard.
 
LoL. The reason I wanted new was because I hate buying used stuff like that. It sucks to buy something used and then have it fail a few weeks later. Odds are, I'll be getting an EGR Valve just as hold as mine (100K+miles) if I buy used?

Make sense? I rather spend the extra 30-50$ for a new part, make sense?

I'll take a look in the classifieds, just to see what I can find...

P.S.- I have heard about those money trees... someone seriously needs to spill the beans.
 
TSIMonsteR said:
LoL. The reason I wanted new was because I hate buying used stuff like that. It sucks to buy something used and then have it fail a few weeks later. Odds are, I'll be getting an EGR Valve just as hold as mine (100K+miles) if I buy used?

Make sense? I rather spend the extra 30-50$ for a new part, make sense?

I'll take a look in the classifieds, just to see what I can find...

P.S.- I have heard about those money trees... someone seriously needs to spill the beans.







No, not really. Not that it's a big deal, but I rarely hear about EGR valves failing. Even if this were true, most (decent) people would sell you a used EGR valve for 10-to-30 bucks shipped. For $90 you could get at least three used EGR valves. And many of them (even considering some valves have 100K miles on them) will probably last a good long while (probably years). So it makes much more sense IMHO to pay for a used one at a very cheap price.
 
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