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EGR blockoff necessary??? or can i just cap it off?

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SlickTalon

10+ Year Contributor
37
0
Jun 14, 2011
Medina, Ohio
yes i searched. and i found a thread with this same title too. but there was no definite answer.

i have another thread about my bad idle that no one has responded to yet. and i just did the vacuum delete to narrow down my possible problems to solve this.

my question is: can you just remove the vacuum lines and cap off the 3 TB ports? or do i also have to put caps on the 2 ports on the EGR valve? or does it HAVE to be blocked off?
 
My son has his capped off, seems to work ok. But, I think blocking it off is a better way.I bought a block-off plate from STM, very clean, easier access to the back side of the engine now.
 
They are right. You can do it the super cheap way and just use a pupcan, trace the shape of the egr valve and cut the shape out the poke 2 holes in it for your bolts then bolt it back up or do it the clean nice way and either but or make a block off plate. The tb should have 4 vac lines youll have to plug.
 
i know all about EGR and block off plates. i have no EGR on my 3800 supercharged. and i read all kinds of threads about easy ways and right ways to block it off.

but if i did the vacuum delete, can i just leave it, or do i have to put caps on the ports on the EGR valve itself, or will it not work unless i block it off with a plate?
 
I wouldnt recommend the popcan method. Eventually that popcan is gunna leak whether its 1 week or 1 year, its almost garunteed to even with RTV on it, eventually. just spend the 10 bucks and get the plate and throw some RTV on it and you'll never have to take that thing off again. Or Fab your own from some 1/8" alum. :cool:
 
It's got to be blocked off if you aren't using it. It's a big boost leak if it's installed without the vaccum lines hooked up. So either reconnect the vaccum hoses or block it off completely.

Nice, thick block-off plates are only $10 on eBay, so there's no reason not to do it properly.
 
If you have a bad idle, I'd complete the vac delete and EGR block-off, then test your isc coils, and of course do a boost leak test at the throttlebody elbow/UICP spray some soapy water and look for bubbles. Most common areas for vac leak: lower injector seals/BISS screw. and if all that is good. you might want to check into bypassing your FIAV.
 
well it actually WONT idle, unless i give it gas and keep it running. when i let off it will die. and i just got the manifold diff pressure sensor AND the idle control motor today. and i just looped the EGR ports together. still won't idle.

and i did pressurize the intake manifold. held good.

what are the isc coils?(i replaced the" IAC or ISC") and the FIAV?

i don't know what else to do.:confused:
 
the coils are the little metal prongs that stick out of the isc's wiring harness. set up like this :

1 2 3
- - -
4 5 6
- - -

you check the voltage with a avoltmeter from the #1 prong to the #2 prong - #3 to #4, 4-5, and so on. they should read realy close to 30 ohms. if one doesnt then the isc must be replaced.

Does it idle after it reaches operating temp? like if you hold rev on it a little until it reaches its operational temp (setting the O2 sensor to closed loop) will it hold idle then? If it HOLDS idle AFTER operating temp is reached then its your FIAV, and it needs to be blocked or bypassed.
 
well i found that the timing belt probably skipped a tooth or 2. found this out after i compression tested it again. and it held numbers so im guessing im only 1 or 2 off. hopefully my valves are ok and i can just redo it and be done. it was MY fault. i replaced everything but the adjuster(i thought it was still good and strong enough). well thats what i get for skipping an important part. its just hard to measure the adjuster like vfaq shows when the engine is in the car. plus im in a wheelchair, which makes working on cars harder as it is.
 
well problem solved. heres what happened.... i put all the vacuum lines back on because i was fed up, and got the car to pass echeck.

so then i did the vacuum delete again. and i looped the EGR with a small vac line. then i get a NEW code. not the p1400(manifold sensor) OR P443(EVAP circuit), but it was p403(EGR circuit). and every once in a while the car wont idle, id have to keep it alive. but the only code was p403

well i finally got a EGR block off plate. a nice thick black one with "Fi-D", the company, on it. its thick but comes with nice hard allen screws that sit in recessed holes which make them look flush with the plate. been driving for a few days now with no check engine light! and no idle problems!

so for anyone who was looking for the answer that i was looking for, and cant find a definite one like i was looking for. well here it is:

Yes, you can do the vacuum delete with NO check engine light!

i left the sensors on the firewall completely open(no vac lines or caps on the nipples, but still plugged in)... capped the 3 nipples on top of the throttle body... and completely removed the EGR valve, replacing it with a block off plate... car runs great, no CEL.
 
They are right. You can do it the super cheap way and just use a pupcan, trace the shape of the egr valve and cut the shape out the poke 2 holes in it for your bolts then bolt it back up or do it the clean nice way and either but or make a block off plate. The tb should have 4 vac lines youll have to plug.

1G tb has 4 lines 2G has 3....FTW
 
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