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ecu swap

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bradselph

Supporting VIP
917
12
Jun 14, 2010
sebring, Florida
im gonna swap to a turbo ecu with dsmlink
following this guide
http://home.roadrunner.com/~chadnmichelle/ecuswap.htm

since i have dsmlink i shouldn't need the safc right?

also could i tune dsmlink for the stock 275cc injectors?
and do i have to have a turbo TB?
i know i need a knock sensor tho
 
ok i pretty much knew that

why not answer my other 2 questions
 
you can not tune link for your 275cc injectors, high vs low impedance will ruin your ecu
you must run a turbo throttlebody with the turbo ecu
burn your safc

Ok thanks, i never had a SAFC to burn.
Also the high vs low shouldn't matter because the 275cc injectors are already high impedance injectors so my first question still stands.
 
i used the 1g throttlebody with the 2g TPS it works fine, you don't even need to change any wiring since you have a 1999

ah yea your right, just don't install the resistor pack until you are ready to put in your bigger injectors and you should be fine :thumb: (since low impedence injectors + resistor pack make ecu see high impedence)

just so you know the 99 NT spyder ecu is flashable and you can convert it to the turbo ecu simply by flashing the 99 gsx ceddymod rom to it.

not sure if you would need to rewire the fuelpump stuff for this, it may be worth looking into.
 
i used the 1g throttlebody with the 2g TPS it works fine, you don't even need to change any wiring since you have a 1999


just so you know the 99 NT spyder ecu is flashable and you can convert it to the turbo ecu simply by flashing the 99 gsx ceddymod rom to it.

not sure if you would need to rewire the fuelpump stuff for this, it may be worth looking into.

What do you mean by change the wiring? Would i have to change the wiring for a 1g TPS?

Thanks didn't know that but i already got a new turbo ecu with dsmlink installed from ecmlink themselves purchased the ecu and link as one package.
Maybe i will sell this so called flashable ecu after i get this turbo one in.

Im rewiring the fuel pump sometime this weekend when i get over this horrendous cold.



That's 1GB.

I know its a 1GB just following the guide i originally posted...
 
if you use the 1g tps you need to hook up an idle switch so your car will know how to idle.

if you sell the the ecu make sure the person your buying it from knows its from a 99 NT.

This is true, we do have a 1G TPS on the Spyder right now and are having some idle issues. We also are having some knock sensor issues that are baffling us.
 
if you use the 1g tps you need to hook up an idle switch so your car will know how to idle.

if you sell the the ecu make sure the person your buying it from knows its from a 99 NT.

Ok so i wouldn't need to change anything with a 2g Turbo TPS?



This is true, we do have a 1G TPS on the Spyder right now and are having some idle issues. We also are having some knock sensor issues that are baffling us.

You have the knock sensor in the block right? LOL
 
yea just switch to the 2g tps, it has a built in idle switch you don't have to rewire anything. (4 wires vs 1g 3 wires)

My car and others also had the pk issue. I just think the 4g64 is 'noisier' than the 4g63t and the knock filters and gains should be adjusted correctly but I'm still not learned enough to do that. The knock comes on strong at 2300 to 3000 but is absent from 3000+ but its enough to ruin every other pull as you guys know.

as long as your not knocking above 3000 you can max out the knock sensitivity until your under boost (100+ load) can be done in both link and ecuflash easily

also the 96-97 spyder needs a special fuel system wiring hack to correctly control the relay, caught by tom at ecmlink, search the forums for this

OP - you should also consider switching to the 4g63t fuel pressure regulator so your fuel trims line up better. The fuel pressure value is hardcoded into the ecu and can't be changed and the 4g64 has a higher base as you probably also know

Also as it says on the page to tune your afr to .88v , do not do this...it was the old school way of leaning fuel trim before widebands got cheap.Good chance to blow something up. Either get a wideband or look for .94v(between 11-12 afr) or so to be safe.
 
yea just switch to the 2g tps, it has a built in idle switch you don't have to rewire anything. (4 wires vs 1g 3 wires)

My car and others also had the pk issue. I just think the 4g64 is 'noisier' than the 4g63t and the knock filters and gains should be adjusted correctly but I'm still not learned enough to do that. The knock comes on strong at 2300 to 3000 but is absent from 3000+ but its enough to ruin every other pull as you guys know.

as long as your not knocking above 3000 you can max out the knock sensitivity until your under boost (100+ load) can be done in both link and ecuflash easily

also the 96-97 spyder needs a special fuel system wiring hack to correctly control the relay, caught by tom at ecmlink, search the forums for this

OP - you should also consider switching to the 4g63t fuel pressure regulator so your fuel trims line up better. The fuel pressure value is hardcoded into the ecu and can't be changed and the 4g64 has a higher base as you probably also know

Also as it says on the page to tune your afr to .88v , do not do this...it was the old school way of leaning fuel trim before widebands got cheap.Good chance to blow something up. Either get a wideband or look for .94v(between 11-12 afr) or so to be safe.

Ok i think i got the TB completly understood now.

I do know about the higher base pressure but wasnt sure if it would affect anything, Even with DSMLink i cant tune for the higher pressure?

And yes i do have a wideband on the way, It should be in sometime next week.

After i get the turbo ecu and all in and working in good order i was gonna start collecting the turbo parts.
 
Ok so i wouldn't need to change anything with a 2g Turbo TPS?





You have the knock sensor in the block right? LOL

No we put it on the gas tank...was that not where it goes?

We have a 2G, brand new in the block. I have suggested it is phantom knock, but someone doesn't want to believe me. I voted we try a 1G.
 
No we put it on the gas tank...was that not where it goes?

We have a 2G, brand new in the block. I have suggested it is phantom knock, but someone doesn't want to believe me. I voted we try a 1G.


ROFL
I was pretty much kidding, I have a total of 0 experience on that subject.
 
I'd still be inclined to agree with your analysis on it, as mentioned above, inexperienced or not. Though we are getting some knock above 3,000 RPMs. Really this is a two-fold problem, he needs to switch to a 2G TPS and he needs to go and get a tune (we are using Link obviously) and then we need to evaluate the situation. It's like plugging a hole in a dam while ignoring the cracks.
 
Ok back onto "my" original questions.

I got this answer from Tom at ECMLink before ordering link.

"ECMLink will only support down to the stock DSM injector size of 450 cc/min. It will not support any smaller than that without jumping through some unusual "hoops" (basically faking it out with airflow adjustments for example)."

How hard would this be, or would it just be easier to switch the injectors? LOL
 
You'd have to know your stock fuel maps and adjust accordingly. I would just turbo, injector and link swap it all at once.

Yea...

Don't think I'm gonna do it all at once. WTF

Figured i would install the Ecu, Injectors, and TB before attempting the turbo so i can get all the kinks out before i add the turbo in the mix.
 
You can definitely do that, no reason why you can't tune an NA car on the 450s if you have Link.

Would also give me some tuning experience without the danger of a turbo, I still gotta worry about being lean though.

With that said all my questions are answered for now. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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