2G ECU not sending signal to PTU

[dmaffo]

In my efforts to try and figure out my no start I have tracked down no start problem to the following. Please keep in mind I have fuel and all else seems ok. To boot I have the following spare parts.
-2 green top cas
-I have coil on plug set up and stock IGN Coil Pack with some NGK plug wires
-2 PTU at hand both with brackets and both have been tested and know work perfectly.
-spare ECU (no link installed here)
Using Link V3 and S/D on main ECU.

So the issue with my no start has come down to NO SPARK with 2 cyl's.
If I wire up the plug that goes to coil on plug set up(reversed PTU pin 1 and 8) I have no spark on 2,3.
If I reverse and let things be like they were OEM with Ign Coil with Plug wires then 1,4 are dead.

I have swapped PTU, I have swapped CAS and spun that sucker 1/4 and 1/2 and all the way around. I have even swapped out ECU as I bought a spare for this type of challenge to properly eliminate possible fail points.

Here is my issue....

ECU pin out to PTU are not doing same. (test done with PTU disconnected from plug)
Pin #23 (brwn/red) going to PTU #2 gets 0.01 to 2.96v while spinning CAS.
Pin #10 (blk/Blue) going to PTU #7 gets 0.01 to 0.02v while spinning CAS.

So depending on which wire I chose to tap in I will get a working pair of coils 1,4 or 2,3.

I have done a complete wire tuck and wondering where on the engine bay fuse panel that I relocated I could have snipped something or in the interior panel. Or where else?

I am all EARS!!
PLEASE HELP ME START THIS CAR!!!!
Small diagram of what I just said...

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[dmaffo]

checked continuity and all systems go..
have a spare ecu and when I plugged in same thing happens.
The one thing that does come to mind is this. If I have wired something incorrectly and I blew the cas for x,y,z reason, it doesn't matter how many more cas's I keep purchasing and plugging in, Ill keep blowing them too.

I say this as I have 3 green tops. one seems to be dead. And the other 2 do same thing(one wire pulses only). They all worked and had car running with them all before. It isn't till now that I am having issue.
SO WHERE DID I GO WRONG??
What can I unplug to eliminate possible fail points. Its not like I have much hooked up. No ac, no power steering, no heater unit, no plumbing for any of that, no oem much of anything anymore.
have:
tps
o2 sensor
speed sensor
fuel injectors
knock
reverse light
temp 2 sensors (2 wires, and single in front housing)
head lights and turn signals
Saturn single wire (1 gauge) from battery
starter oem ( 1 gauge) from battery separate line (plus single oem black wire trigger)
SD set up with plugs inside cabin, extended to iat and Omni 4 bar
couple vacuum lines from magnus cast intake
and throttle cable.
master brake cyl 2 wire oem plug
Single slim fan in front of rad
aftermarket gauges wires for fuel press, temp, oil temp, oil pressure, afx wb, pyro had it why not, ...
That's my engine .....
All else Is simply gone!!
Where could I be arching??
Or frying my cas if that is even my case???
I tried this last night:
Cut off the cas from car:
spare battery on ground took a wire for 12+ and ground from BATTERY
hooked up to cut off cas red 12+ and black for ground.

Grounded my mutimeter with MENTIONED ground
then took red multimeter pin WIRE to the yellow of cas and spun it
started at TDC of course and got the following:
every 1/4 turn or so depending how slow I went it went to .02 .03 then dropped to 0
white wire did same voltage but at 1/2 turn.....0.02 to 0.03 that's it...... 2 of my cas did that and the other was just fried I think...
So it seems to be triggering correct pulses but at a very low amount... SHOULD these suckers not be at like 5 volts???
12v was on my multimeter.....
Like I said I was freaking tired and decided to just come inside before I blew something else as one gets kinda silly, clumsy and sloppy when that tired....

this is what I followed:
Moving thread to the Electrical Tech forum, where it should have been posted in the first place.
You'v got your acronyms backwards, the CPS (CRANK position sensor) and the CAS (CAM angle sensor). The reason why your CAS has (4) wires going to it is because its a 1g CAS, not a 2g like you were probably searching for.
Your CAS has four wires going to it, a 12v signal and ground the other two are signal wires for the TDC and CAM inputs to the ECU. To test them you'll have to pull the CAS off the head and turn it by hand, this will allow you to test the signals with a multimeter as you spin it. Both the CAM and TDC signal wires should read up to 5v as you spin the CAS, the CAM signal wire pulses 4 times per revolution and the TDC pulses 2 times.
Heres a pin out of the CAS connector going to the ECU so you can check continuity of the wires and know which wires to test for the CAM & TDC pulses.
ECU Pins to CAS connector Pins -
CAM Signal wire (YEL): Pin 2 at the CAS (4 pulses per revolution)
TDC signal wire (WHT): Pin 1 at the CAS (2 pulses per revolution)

I need some insight as to possible things I can check.

Thanks

 

[wrencher]

You have checked your ECU wiring for proper powers & grounds?
I ask because you say a tuck was done.

 

[snowborder714]

If you cut off/eliminated the blue plug in the engine bay, did you remember to solder or somehow connect the two wires than ran to it together?

 

[dmaffo]

yes that's the pin #8 on the power transistor. Leaves Blk white tracer into plug then leaves blue red tracer.

 

[dmaffo]

stupid brittle soldered cam wire. It got messed/broken up inside and was hanging by the shrink tubing!!