The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ECMlink Ecm wb wot

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KeelesKustome

15+ Year Contributor
882
17
Dec 29, 2007
Waverly, Tennessee
You'll see a second gear pull in this log. I started lowering the timg and lowered my maf, not exzactly where it use to be and I see I am still rich.
What calculation do i need to use to figure ourt how to get my WOT LC1 reading to 11:1?
The Lc1 is new and the readings are matching the analog gauge, so I beleieve it is correct. I think I saw myself running 27-29 psi, not to sure though.

175 seconds in.

After reading the wiki on how to WOT tune a wideband. I'm seeing that my 9:4:1 AFRatio doesn't match my 10:5:1 wideband. In the instructions I'm told to add airflow to mafraw by around 11%in the 2329hz range. To add airflow i move the sliders up?

time stamp: 179, hz 1474 need to be lowered -1%?
time stamp: 180, hz 2654 need to be added +11%?

Am I on the right track in understanding this?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Keep in mind your MAF Comp sliders determine what Hz levels you can make adjustments at. Since it looks like you have a v2.5 chip, you're very limited in adjustment areas.

Since your 400 Hz level isn't at WOT, I won't touch on that one.

For your 800 Hz level, you look to be good. Your wideband varies from AFRatioEst by a max of .2. If you're picky like I am though, I'd add 1% just to see if I can get it to line up even better.

For your 1200 Hz level, your AFRatioEst is leaner (10.2) than your wideband (9.6). In this case, you want to subtract airflow. For each .1 of A/F that is off, you want to make a 1% change. In this case, you have a difference of .6, so you will subtract 6% airflow at your 1200 Hz level.

Looks like your 1600 Hz level will need 4% subtracted, 2000 Hz level will need 2% added, and the 2400 Hz level will need 13% added.


Once you get your AFRatioEst lining up great with your wideband, you should be able to start taking out fuel to get to your target.




You also might want to lower timing from 5000 RPM's on up to combat the knock you're getting.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Taking fuel out in the WOT section?

Also I'm using a stock maf, with that in mind do you figure something else may be a cause for this, like not enough reduced global time on the injectors?

parts: 98 gsx, Automatic 6 bolt, bse, MM oil filter, manley rods, oversize mahle forge pistons, magnus HBG, Injen Intake stock maf and K$N large air filter, 3000gt 60mm TB, Apexi N1 31/2" Exhaust, NGK Plug Wires, 2g coilpack, rre rewire, pte 880 FI, 255 FP,AFPR, 20g buschur P&C turbo with mhi housing, OBX v2 ExMani , street gate EW with , kiggly A/T adapter for 2g , ets FMIC, ssq hks bov, hallman mbc, roadsurge DIY paddle shifter . Trans gauge & cooler, Arp head studs, OEM HG,sodium valves LC1 WB
 
New pull, the air readings line up fairly well and the car is pulling hard as all get out. I removed in WOT some fuel throughout and it raised my A/F just a little and the car felt even better.
How much should I decreese the fuel from this log?

16 seconds in 1st and second gear.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
No can do, i don't have 3rd, it's got a blown seal. :banghead:

Theirs a good 2nd gear pull, or maybe later in the log
I'm thinking if i change my global to -47% it may help or will that mess everything up?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Um...wow. Ok. Just know that 2nd is not as ideal to tune, that's all. You may have to retune a bit once you get 3rd gear back.


Based on the 2nd gear pull then, I'd start at 3500 RPM and start dropping fuel sliders. You'll have to do a couple passes most likely until you get it to hold 11:1 the whole way through the pull. I'd start off with maybe a 5-10% drop and see where that gets you. Make sure to have no massive jumps and to make everything smooth.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay I'll start with -5% at 3500 and repost a log tomorrow.
Yeah I understand the 3rd gear issue, in the mean time this is teaching me alot! :thumb:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is not the best log, You can see I still am not where I need to be a/f.

With that being said, whats going on? Do I need to drop my global fuel way back? I'm running stock pressure on AFPR.

Time stamp 305

Time atamp 763, this log was right before the previous, and it was decent 2nd gear pull.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I'm sorry, but a 1000 RPM range "pull" doesn't really give me a good, solid amount of data to work with. I don't feel comfortable suggesting changes for a typical pull RPM range just from that small amount of data.

That being said, it looks like you could do a bit more airflow tuning (see 2400 Hz in the wb7 log). I don't think you need to adjust global. I understand the concept, but am not a fan of doing this. I would suggest to keep pulling fuel to hit your target. Tuning for target AFR isn't a quick process. You have to make slow changes to get there, and then go back and fine tune to make sure you stay there throughout the length of the pull.

If someone with more experience with changing global wants to step in and offer advice, I'd be interested in hearing more.
 
Okay I understand, and I knew that, their just weren't any good conditions for a pull.
I'll continue and get a really good 2nd gear pull. Thanks for your patience.

What is the purpose for making the wideband and the est:a/f ratio line up?

Why couldn't the car be tuned for boost estimation, and fine dial everything in straight from the wideband?
 
Okay I just found this nifty little thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/312350-how-set-base-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

I decided to check mine with this method. I don't have an adjustable timing light.
My marks are lining up perfectly straight when it fires. As it would be when installing the belt.
Am I understanding that 5 degrees TDC should make the left gear be right above the right one when firing?

I don't have marks on my fluid dampener and my lower cover is to scarred up.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top