ECM Link idle issues on SD.

[ProductZero]

Ok, I've posted over on ECMLink's site but to my dismay I really don't get any help.

I was trying to do SD with E85. It burns rough very difficult to get running right.

Swapped it over to premium.

Here is the deal.

92 oct @ 51 PSI to 1150 cc injectors.

I got it to idle but runs AFRs in 18:1 area. ECMLink says 14s but we can all smell that BS.

Here is a log of what's happening.

I've been outside all day and I can't seem to get it right.

Please if anyone can assist. I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[Dert]

Sorry I can't view your log from my phone but will try to give some pointers off the top of my head that helped me adjust my idle. First off if you made any adjustments to sliders 0 them off as you use the tables to make adjustments,second, go to your DA Openloop max oct table and make sure you have your target afr's set. If you want a target of 14.7 and your idle is 750rpm the target is set at 14.4 I believe so you will need to increase it to 14.7, be sure to adjust all surrounding cells also so if the ecu chooses a different path you will still be ok...1) adjust your biss screw so that your ics is at 30, 2)get SDairflowperrev and airflowperrev to .25, do this by logging data then go to your SD table and click the "track" button, the cell being used will highlight on the table. Adjust the highlighted cell by lowering/raising the number until you reach .25 airflowperrev 3)once you get airflowperevs in check adjust your deadtime so your combinedfueltrim is as close to 0 as possible. 4) you want your WB and afrest to mimic as closely as you can get. Referring back to adjusting openloopmaxoct table your afrest is going to be whatever you have this set to. Watch your WB reading, if it is leaner than afrest, increase global ie:make number move closer to "0" for example if your at 50% global you would increase to 40's, if you are richer then decrease and so on until your WB mimics your afrest. 5) once you somewhat get them the same readjust your deadtime getting your
Combinedfueltrim close to 0 again as it is going to be out. Be sure to boost leak check first before anything also , I don't know if this info will help, again, my apologies, this is all off the top of my head as I can't view your log on my iPhone so I can't see what what settings you actually have. If I can get on my pc or laptop anytime soon I will have a look for you, but I'm sure by then Brian (snowboarder) or Corey (Gofer) will chime in and take the reigns as they are extremely helpfull when it comes to tuning and have helped me and alot of others out with tunes. good luck-Gary

edit: try this link (if it works ) it has some good info too http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=119994&d=1299558838


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- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ProductZero]

Idle switch,..

Damn idle switch....

Also, I got everything in line for the most part. Everything needs a bit of tweaking but so far so good.

 

[Imback]

Your voltage is a little on the low side

 

[ProductZero]

Low voltage is due to 2 SPAL fans running. I found that I can run 1 and hold 180-190 while not effecting much.

I did a cruise tonight with a pull in 3rd. Log attached.

Let me know what you guys think I should do about the knock. I tried using a spreadsheet to get AFR and AFREst similar but I'm new to this so I ended up screwing a few things up.

 

[Dert]

open up your log to your pull , highlite the pull and press the spacebar so just your pull is selected. scroll to the point to where you showed knock. Go to the direct access tab and select tmngmaxoct. Click the track data log button and you will be able to see exactly what timing cells you hit when you knocked. Lower the highlighted numbers where you showed knock by increments of 2 (I'd lower it 4 where you hit 5degret) and save it. Do another 3rd gear pull from 3000-about 7000rpm but let off the throttle if you see your check engine light. Repeat the steps of doing pulls and lowering the timing untill knock is eliminated. Use the link i posted along with the steps to get your afr and afrest to line up. Once you have it lined up, deadtime should be your only adjustment needed to get the combined fuel trims back in line.

 

[ProductZero]

Ok, I went through and lowered timing in that range. Now I want to make the fuel trim a bit more stable. Or am I stuck with it going from -1 to +11?

 

[Dert]

Ok, I went through and lowered timing in that range. Now I want to make the fuel trim a bit more stable. Or am I stuck with it going from -1 to +11?

It should go from -2ish to +2ish, if it is jumping from -1 to +11 your idle must be going up and down an awful lot

 

[kmetiuk]

Going SD soon....lots of good info in here. TY.

 

[ProductZero]

Yes idle fluctuates 1100-1500 and sometimes sticks at 2k when I let off the throttle. I adjusted timing and the STFT Adjustment rate but it still needs more to be dialed in.

 

[Dert]

A boost leak can also be the culprit to a surging idle as well. Make sure there are no boost leaks, then gradually adjust your biss untill the idle becomes more of a "purr" meaning it doesnt fluctuate that much. Then try re-doing the steps. I had issues with fluctuating idle and I logged ICS on link then adjusted my biss until the ics # was at 30. Also try lowering your target idle to 950 or so and see if that helps. But if it seems as tho it is sticking, try adjusting the throttle cable first. Follow it from your throttle body to where it goes into the box on your firewall and try loosening the cable a little. Sometimes when the cable heats up the cable tightens a little causing tension on it as tho as if you were pressing the gas pedal slightly causing rpms to raise. Loosening the cable will solve this issue for most people. follow this link and go to post #3, has some info and pics-Gary

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/373222-throttle-cruise-control-cable-setup.html

 

[ProductZero]

It isn't an idle surge. I'm sure it's more to do with the lag with the O2 sensor. At cruise speed the O2 swings faster and the engine keeps a steady RPM within a few hundred. But once at idle the O2 swing is long and it takes a while for the ECU to compensate for fuel.

With these 272 cams I couldn't get the idle down to the 900 range because the car would lube pretty bad and die.

 

[Imback]

That's funny i have 280's and my idle is set to 1050. And when i had my hks 272's i had my idle at 850. Check for leaks as mentioned. Also check your isc to make sure it's within spec.

 

[ProductZero]

Nope, set idle to 900 rpm. Set AFPR to around .25, Fuel trims still jumped all over the place. Dialed ISC to 30. Car sat at idle for a few then died. I couldn't start it up again till I reverted the settings and turned the BISS in a turn and a half. I checked for boost leaks when I put in an extended clutch slave cylinder arm. Held 30 PSI.

Log from tonight's run.