The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Eagle rods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yea I did the feeler gauge barely went in. Its 6 bolt rods on 6 bolt crank. I will try to get pics to better explain.

They fit on the journal fine im just worried they will rub that :ohdamn:.......umm I dont know what to call it. You know the little walls on the outside of journals.
 
Im using these on my 6 bolt and they fit just fine with no grinding required. I dont really have any more information other than that. Good luck man.
 
Are you using the Eagle rods on an Eagle crank or on a stock crank? If it is a stock crank it should have no issues whatsoever. You may see some of these issues with an Eagle crank.
 
About 8 years ago i had this issue with a set of eagle rods. They were way to tight. They would bind up in the crank when you turned it over. I didn't have time to wait for a new set so i just had them machined .
 
Sounds like you have found tolerance build up

Every engine part has a high and low spec.

Sounds like you have a crank that is on the tight side, and rods on the big side.

take a soft faced mallet, and tap ( not beat the hell out of) the wide section of the con rod towards one face of the crank, then take your feeler gauge, and measure the spec. Make of note of it
Once you have done all 4 rods like this, one at a time.
Remove the rods and measure the rod thickness.

Look up the factory spec, in the Factory manual for rod side clearance
if this is an engine that will be hammered on often, an addt'l +.001 or +.002 over max will not hurt

now that you have taken the rod side clearance, and rod thickness measurements, and have the factory clearance spec you can do the math and figure out how much needs to be removed from the rod sides to get the clearance you need.

A bench top belt sander with 120-150 grit belt, will be suffencent to remove (think buff off) a few thoundsants to set your clearance.

You will need a decent set of verneir calipers or a good mic.

Just go slow, and measure the thickness at a min of 3 points around the big end to help keep the rod sides paraelle
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top