ECMlink E316G on E85 in need of tune help.

[Evo_This]

First let me say I'm grateful for any and all help I can get setting up my car.

I'm going to try to make this as clear and organized as I can from what I've seen in other threads. Here are my mods that concern performance:

Built head (1mm os valves, bronze guides, Manley locks, Vition seats/seals, 3mm lifters, Crower springs/ti retainers, Comp 272 cams, Skunk2 cam gears)
Stock bottom end (BSE, new oil pump/case, new oil pan, new water pump, all new Gates Racing belts)
FP Mani, ported E316G, 3" O2 dump/downpipe/exhaust, FMIC, 3" GmMaf with Link Cable, STM Oil Cooler, Mishimoto Rad/Slim Fans, PTE 1000cc, 6an filter to rail, Venom High Flow Rail, 6an return with AFPR, Wally 255 Rewired, E85, Innovate LC1, LinkV3 Full, NGK plugs/wires.
I believe thats everything that should affect a tune but feel free to ask about anything.

Ok first is a log of me idling after trying to recalibrate my wb. It's at least moving now, but still unsure if its correct. Before it was stuck between 20-21 n would drop to 7-8 only on decel. I feel if I get everything else set correctly first then I can make WOT pulls.

Some issues:
AFRest, Logged LC1, and the in car gauge...none of them match at any point. How can I fix this and which one is actual?
BoostEst and in car gauge don't match either, I've also seen people's logs where they logged the boost guage, how do I do this?
I'm doing ALOT of adjustments in MafComp (seen in log) to get LTFTs low but it seems the car is still very rich at idle n then lean under boost. Should I be adding fuel through the sliders instead? (Log Coming)
If I do a launch control rev (set at 5500) I get knock, like anywhere between 5-15 counts but only happens sometimes when driving hard. (Log Coming)

I have a cruise and highway log that shows everything above but it's too big to post, guess I'll have to make shorter ones of them today on the way home. Sorry about that.

 

[TurboAnything]

You are pretty far from a WOT pull. Your wideband is not reading correct is it wired to the EGRtemp on the ecu? The Airflowperrev is way too high for idle. Airflowperrev should be around .30-.31 with 272 cams. Smooth out the maf comp table after you pull the the 500-600hz down too lower the Airflowperrev. your global fuel is wrong and should be in the -31% range and the deadtime is more likely close to 400. I would reset the STFT adjustment in the DA table no need to mess with it. In fact i would just reset all the DA stuff back to stock until the car runs better.

Try this and get me a new log. Also figure out why the wideband is not working.

 

[bastarddsm]

I don't use ecmlink so I can't see the logs...but a tip from me would be to stick a stock maf back on it to get the base tune dialed in. It's a lot easier to get things right when you know the maf is reading right... then once all the base stuff is dialed, then switch back to the gm maf.....

 

[snowborder714]

1. The way you have your Max Oct table setup is not great. What happens if you deviate from the "normal path" you observed and set to 11:1? You're going to jump to 9.3:1 and that wouldn't be good. I'd suggest getting the Evo 8 mod1 tables, and then modifying/blending what you need from them. You can use both timing and fuel.
evo8v3settings [ECMTuning - wiki]

What made you adjust the STFTAndO2Feedback table?

How do you have the LC-1 wired in? This might be causing some of the reading inconsistencies. Also, when you calibrated it, did you do it with the sensor out of the exhaust (in free air)?

My guess is that you'll need to adjust the MAF Comp sliders more at idle to get your AirflowPerRev in check, and then move to adjusting deadtime to get CombinedFT around 0%. Video #8 here will show you how to do this (but make sure you've watched them all).
ECMTuning, Inc.

You can log boost by using a MAP sensor. You'll wire this in to an input and then source it with a dedicated vacuum line off the intake manifold (as short as you can get it).


We'll worry about launch control once the car is setup better.

 

[Evo_This]

You are pretty far from a WOT pull. Your wideband is not reading correct is it wired to the EGRtemp on the ecu? The Airflowperrev is way too high for idle. Airflowperrev should be around .30-.31 with 272 cams. Smooth out the maf comp table after you pull the the 500-600hz down too lower the Airflowperrev. your global fuel is wrong and should be in the -31% range and the deadtime is more likely close to 400. I would reset the STFT adjustment in the DA table no need to mess with it. In fact i would just reset all the DA stuff back to stock until the car runs better.

Try this and get me a new log. Also figure out why the wideband is not working.

Please excuse my lack on knowledge. What and where are the DA tables? The only thing I have adjusted is the global after going e85 and the MafComp sliders, anything else you see was done when the car was first base tuned after getting Link by a shop tuner. He told me what to set the global to, I watched the Link vids on the Maf sliders due to the car running 12.5+ at all fuel trims.

I don't use ecmlink so I can't see the logs...but a tip from me would be to stick a stock maf back on it to get the base tune dialed in. It's a lot easier to get things right when you know the maf is reading right... then once all the base stuff is dialed, then switch back to the gm maf.....

I no longer have the stock 1g maf, is the gm maf reading wrong?

1. The way you have your Max Oct table setup is not great. What happens if you deviate from the "normal path" you observed and set to 11:1? You're going to jump to 9.3:1 and that wouldn't be good. I'd suggest getting the Evo 8 mod1 tables, and then modifying/blending what you need from them. You can use both timing and fuel.
evo8v3settings [ECMTuning - wiki]

Sadily I didn't do the adjustment you see so I don't know what you mean. I will load the mod1 tables as suggested but once I do that I won't know what to blend in.

What made you adjust the STFTAndO2Feedback table?

Done by shop tuner, I didn't know it was modified.

How do you have the LC-1 wired in? This might be causing some of the reading inconsistencies. Also, when you calibrated it, did you do it with the sensor out of the exhaust (in free air)?

This has also been an issue, I'm told its wired by through the egr pin on the ecu. Calibrating it has also been hard. The calibration harness is not on the car but loose. I connected the ground to the same place as the blue n white grounds from the lc1 and used a line crimp connector (small blue thing that lets you connect one wire to another without cutting it) to the power wire coming from the lc1. Led turns on n stays on but when I push the pushbutton, it blows a fuse. Don't know what Im doing wrong. Gave up on it n put a new fuse in and now it reads 13.5-14.3 at idle when before it was 20-21.8.

My guess is that you'll need to adjust the MAF Comp sliders more at idle to get your AirflowPerRev in check, and then move to adjusting deadtime to get CombinedFT around 0%. Video #8 here will show you how to do this (but make sure you've watched them all).
ECMTuning, Inc.

Will do

You can log boost by using a MAP sensor. You'll wire this in to an input and then source it with a dedicated vacuum line off the intake manifold (as short as you can get it).

Oh ok, I have the Speed Density setup ready to go but I was waiting til I got a new fmic to install it.

Well didn't know the car was off this much, unaware of alot of the changes done in Link before me. Seems I have some work to do tomorrow. Here are the logs I made PRIOR to getting a response so please dont chew me out.
First is an idle log with launch control knock
Second log is crusing on the freway
Third log is a third gear pull almost to redline

 

[snowborder714]

Sadily I didn't do the adjustment you see so I don't know what you mean. I will load the mod1 tables as suggested but once I do that I won't know what to blend in.

If you don't know what/where the DA tables are, how do you plan to load them in? Hopefully you may have learned this through videos or reading on the wiki.

Done by shop tuner, I didn't know it was modified.

Reset back to stock. Use the black double arrow button at the top to toggle to stock values and the save to ECU.

This has also been an issue, I'm told its wired by through the egr pin on the ecu. Calibrating it has also been hard. The calibration harness is not on the car but loose. I connected the ground to the same place as the blue n white grounds from the lc1 and used a line crimp connector (small blue thing that lets you connect one wire to another without cutting it) to the power wire coming from the lc1. Led turns on n stays on but when I push the pushbutton, it blows a fuse. Don't know what Im doing wrong. Gave up on it n put a new fuse in and now it reads 13.5-14.3 at idle when before it was 20-21.8.

So for the calibration harness it's the black wire off the LC-1 to an LED, then the other side of the LED to a push button, and the other side of the push button to a chassis ground - correct? If you can verify that it's wired up properly, that'd be great. You can find a tech article I wrote which should tell you which wire goes where.


That 3rd gear pull is an excellent example why your MaxOct table sucks. It passes from 10.2 to 9.3 to 11 to 9.3

I personally would not go back to whoever tuned it. If you want some help tuning it, start off with the mod1 table replacement, resetting the STFT table, and following the idle video to get that set properly. Then you can post idle logs up after that's all done so we can verify and move forward.

 

[snowborder714]

Sadily I didn't do the adjustment you see so I don't know what you mean. I will load the mod1 tables as suggested but once I do that I won't know what to blend in.

If you don't know what/where the DA tables are, how do you plan to load them in? Hopefully you may have learned this through videos or reading on the wiki.

Done by shop tuner, I didn't know it was modified.

Reset back to stock. Use the black double arrow button at the top to toggle to stock values and the save to ECU.

This has also been an issue, I'm told its wired by through the egr pin on the ecu. Calibrating it has also been hard. The calibration harness is not on the car but loose. I connected the ground to the same place as the blue n white grounds from the lc1 and used a line crimp connector (small blue thing that lets you connect one wire to another without cutting it) to the power wire coming from the lc1. Led turns on n stays on but when I push the pushbutton, it blows a fuse. Don't know what Im doing wrong. Gave up on it n put a new fuse in and now it reads 13.5-14.3 at idle when before it was 20-21.8.

So for the calibration harness it's the black wire off the LC-1 to an LED, then the other side of the LED to a push button, and the other side of the push button to a chassis ground - correct? If you can verify that it's wired up properly, that'd be great. You can find a tech article I wrote which should tell you which wire goes where.


That 3rd gear pull is an excellent example why your MaxOct table sucks. It passes from 10.2 to 9.3 to 11 to 9.3

I personally would not go back to whoever tuned it. If you want some help tuning it, start off with the mod1 table replacement, resetting the STFT table, and following the idle video to get that set properly. Then you can post idle logs up after that's all done so we can verify and move forward.

 

[Evo_This]

If you don't know what/where the DA tables are, how do you plan to load them in? Hopefully you may have learned this through videos or reading on the wiki.

I honestly didn't know what DA meant but after looking at the Mod1 tables I know now what it is. Still working on understanding fully how it works.

Reset back to stock. Use the black double arrow button at the top to toggle to stock values and the save to ECU.

Didn't have that at first, just updated to new software so I have it but if to upload firmware after work.

So for the calibration harness it's the black wire off the LC-1 to an LED, then the other side of the LED to a push button, and the other side of the push button to a chassis ground - correct? If you can verify that it's wired up properly, that'd be great. You can find a tech article I wrote which should tell you which wire goes where.

I have a red power wire to led, led to button, button to black ground. This "harness" was loose from the car completely. I grounded the black wire to the same chassis ground is the blue n white wire per Innovates manuel. I then used the wire crimper to attach the power wire to the one coming from the lc1 after the in line fuse. Led lights up n stays on instead of blinking as it should, if I push the button at this point the in line fuse instantly pops.

That 3rd gear pull is an excellent example why your MaxOct table sucks. It passes from 10.2 to 9.3 to 11 to 9.3



I personally would not go back to whoever tuned it. If you want some help tuning it, start off with the mod1 table replacement, resetting the STFT table, and following the idle video to get that set properly. Then you can post idle logs up after that's all done so we can verify and move forward.

I will take care of this tonight.

 

[snowborder714]

Not sure why you have a red power wire coming from the LC-1 feeding the LED/ground switch. That's not correct at all. You can see the wiring info in this PDF about the LC-1.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

 

[Evo_This]

Maybe I'm not describing it correctly, I'll take a pic of it.

Loaded the Mod1 tables, reset the STFT but it didnt seem like it changed (I could be wrong), made all the changes from TurboAnything's file, and recalibrated the LC1 again with seemingly better results this time.
I will have new idle n cruize logs for you guys today. I will also load the pics with the calibration harness.

 

[Evo_This]

Loaded the Mod1 tables, reset the STFT but it didnt seem like it changed (I could be wrong), made all the changes from TurboAnything's file, and recalibrated the LC1 again with seemingly better results this time.
I will have new idle n cruize logs for you guys today. I will also load the pics with the calibration harness.

Ok here are some pics of the harness and the idle log with slight adjustments.

The first three pics are of the whole harness where you can see how this thing is connected. Fourth is of the crimp connector on the power I used to tie into the system as I didn't want to cut any wires. Lastly is the power wire coming from the LC1 into the inline fuse, I connected my red wire here n grounded the black calibration to chassis ground.

 

[TurboAnything]

Something is wrong with the log file i can not view it.

 

[Evo_This]

Only change was updating to the new software, you may have to do it also to view the log.

 

[snowborder714]

So if that calibration button and LED is really tapped into the power wire, that will do you no good (as I had stated before. See here for how it should be wired up.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

Did you follow video #8 from the link I posted above? If so, go try again. Your AirflowPerRev is off.

 

[Evo_This]

It is? Yes I used the video. I thought it was suppose to be .31 with 272 cams, is it still suppose to be .25? It's cycling between .29-.33.

The link doesn't explain where this is suppose to go. I don't understand where this connects to the LC1. One end clearly goes to a ground, I got that, where does the other end connect to?
I have a black wire connected to the grounds of both the button n led which the power wires of both going into the red wire. Where does the red wire go?

 

[snowborder714]

Went and looked at your profile and didn't see them. Forgot you put the mods in the first post (please transfer to profile for easier reference).

Copy and pasted from the link I posted above:
Basic install (DB gauge, Logging) [LC-1 placed in new bung]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 24)
Brown – ECU pin 15 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge's white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/innovatelc1orlm1install)
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground


You need to find the LC-1 box and start tracing wires. Match all of them up with the above list, or find a new list in that tech article that fits your application/goals.

 

[Evo_This]

Went and looked at your profile and didn't see them. Forgot you put the mods in the first post (please transfer to profile for easier reference).

Copy and pasted from the link I posted above:
Basic install (DB gauge, Logging) [LC-1 placed in new bung]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 24)
Brown – ECU pin 15 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge’s white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground


You need to find the LC-1 box and start tracing wires. Match all of them up with the above list, or find a new list in that tech article that fits your application/goals.

Ok, I'll update my profile. So does that mean the idle is correct?

Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
This is the wire pictured with the inline fuse box.

Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 24)
Concern: Innovate says to ground these two together at the same place but you say not to. They currently are grounded together, should I move one?

Brown – ECU pin 15 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf)
Done

Yellow – DB gauge’s white wire
Done
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
I haven't touched the software yet. My netbook doesn't have a 9pin serial, only a 15pin video. I have ordered a 15pin to usb adapter to correct this tho.

Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground
Still not getting this, the calibration wire is what I pictured. Was there suppose to be a black wire coming from the LC1 already? Mine doesn't have that. Also mine has a purple wire next to the brown one but I can't see where it's going, any ideas what it's for?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, I think the AirflowPerRev is fine.

That's fine if the red wire goes into the fuse.

Yes, there should be a black wire coming out of the LC-1 unit. If there isn't, then you either need to post up every wire color and see if I can help, or contact Innovate and see what's up.

 

[Evo_This]

Dammit, got to get under this thing again...alright I'll check it out.

As for Link here are a couple of cruise logs from yesterday.

 

[snowborder714]

In the first log on the idle at the end your AirflowPerRev and ISCPosition are higher than they should be.

The cruise in your 2nd log looks like it could use some adjusting. See the CombinedFT and how it's not really close to 0%.

Are you sure you have the wideband wired up properly? Either you don't, or you do and it's got something wrong with it (still not calibrated or faulty unit). I hate to keep asking this, but it doesn't seem like you've really pulled the whole thing apart to verify.




Next time don't bump your thread. Just send a PM to anyone who was helping you letting them know that you posted more info.

 

[Evo_This]

WB: I've traced the lines and pulled this thing apart, found the very thin black wire from the controller. I tried using the crimp on it but got no response from the led after grounding the other end and turning the car to the ON position. I striped the wire and twisted it together with the harness, still no power to the led. Lost...again
Besides this the wb is wired correctly but why doesn't Link n the guage mix? Seems odd that they show different readings when coming from the same source, Link shows 8.4-10.4 pretty much at all times looking at both idle n cruise logs. It only goes any higher, max of 11.5 logged, inbetween shifts or decel in gear. Now the guage shows 13.8-14.5 at idle, shows anything from 12.2-15.5 while cruising and will jump up to 17-21 between shifts or decel in gear. The AFREst shows different numbers also.

Link: CombinedFT seems to have flipped from pos in the last log to neg in this one, what did I do wrong or what do I do next? Also both of these logs were done while on the freeway home yet Link gave two pretty different MafComp suggestions, either seem good?

Cant upload new idle log for some reason

 

[snowborder714]

1. What color wire do you have running to the gauge? If it's not the same wire that's running to the ECU, one of the wires may need to be reprogrammed.

2. At idle, do the gauge and logged value match?

The gauge jumping that high between shifts is normal.

That seems really rich while cruising. You should take a look at the tune during that.

You're starting to see how much of a pain the GM MAF can be sometimes to tune But your CombinedFT in the second log seems fairly decent. You may not be able to get it really close to 0% because of the nature of the GM MAF.

 

[Evo_This]

1) Its the yellow wire to guage.

2) Nope, log is 9.1-10.5, guage is 13.5-14.8

Damn...what/where should I make adjustments to now? Maybe I should just run SD

 

[snowborder714]

Have you reprogrammed the yellow wire yet, or verified that it has the same settings as the brown wire?

 

[Evo_This]

Have you reprogrammed the yellow wire yet, or verified that it has the same settings as the brown wire?

Reprogrammed?
Where n how do I do this or check the settings of the brown wire? Is it done through Link or the LC1 program?
So is the logged valve, the guage, or the DA tables correct? I can only assume that one of these must be right.