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DJHACK

Probationary Member
2
0
Oct 11, 2007
1997 ECLIPSE GSX

MY DILEMMA:

THE CAR HAS 80,XXX MILES.

ITS A DAILY DRIVER.....EVERYTHING IS IN GOOD MAINTAINED CONDITION.


So, I have come across endless forums, VFAQ's, Part sites, etc. I just want to hear opinions from DSM guys that know their Sh*t.

The transmission is already under going its stage 2 rebuild.
Now its time for the motor.

I worked my ass off this summer to put money into the car this winter.

What do I do?

I know I know....dont bother with the 7-bolt. (Unless ## a fan of crankwalk):(
My goals are....400-450 horse....streetable power.

6 Bolt Swap? 7 Bolt Stroker Kit?.......I have done the exhaust.....intake....etc. BEFORE I start hunting for a shiny new turbo....I want to get things right with the motor.

Please offer any suggestions you may have.

My budget is about 6,500. (Is it enough)?

I want the car to be reliable....but I also want to walk all over my cocky friends SVT..

ANY HELP / SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE AWESOME

Thanks,
Hack:dsm:

Yeah, having some trouble saving the changes to my profile......

Anyway, it's a 1997 GSX

I guess I was just looking for engine suggestions more than anything.

The miles arent high on my 7-Bolt.

But, is it worth it to rebuild>?

Or just follow the path and 6 - bolt swap?
 
Hack,
please update your car profile so I know what car you have. I'm assuming it's a 2g since you said 7 bolt.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=2gtupgrades

The MOST important thing about reliable 400whp is knowing that there is not such a thing without a constant daily effort. It takes tolerance, patience, and respect for the car in order to run that much power as a daily driver. With that in mind, making sure your engine is in 10000% is the most crucial part. Do a compression test, leakdown test, boost leak test and monitor the healthiness of your engine BEFORE you mod it. Once that is in check, compile your parts list and attain the knowledge of what every part does in conjunction with another. Once you full understand the mod path, then commit to buying parts and go on from there. Goodluck, DSMtuners is a great resource and use the "search" function as often as possible.
 
I got a built 7 bolt for like $4500 with crankwalk "mod" from Mark at Overbore.com. It's built up on the top, bottom and everything in between. Just started her for the first time today. :)

Tom.
 
My advice would be to build your 7 bolt since you only want 450 hp. Once you do a proper build your rods/pistons new crank you should be ok. Stay off your clutch in traffic. In my opinion 450 isn't that hard to get with your budget it is kind of stiff. Are you doing the work at a garage or yourself?
 
+1
If 450hp is what you want for max hp do a 7-bolt stroker. From what has been said by the proven guys on this forum that the stroker gives you streetable power. I know alot of people say that 7-bolts all get crank walk but i say once you rebuild your engine it's yours. I've seen alot of engines get built and i noticed that the more time you put into it with measuring clearances and making sure everything is correct the better the result. So measure your bearing clearances 2-3 times and if they are not right take your crank back to the machine shop and do undersized bearings untill it's right.
 
you can use a 7 bolt or 6 bolt.what ever is easiest.if you build a 6 bolt you can still drive the car while the motor is being built.i am not a big fan of the stroker motors.i just think its a watse of money.the 4g63 bored .020 will have no problems.as far as a turbo setup goes i would use a gt35r with a stage 5 exhaust wheel .63a/r.it will spool nice and have lots of topend.ofcourse you will need supporting mods fuel,intercooler,etc...
 
This website is designed with a search engine in it -- it is an effective way to learn before asking questions. You only have 1 post and are asking for the "wisemen" to step in and help you =-= you need to learn on your own, and this site has a helluva lot of information on it. [/RANT]

Now...

First question == Does your motor currently need a rebuild? If not, then save your money. If you want to do only 400-500hp, your motor is easily capable of doing that on stock block without making it into a race motor. Heck, I did over 500whp/460 tq on the stock block with a 60-trim and an AFC.

If you are going to build a race motor, then I would go with: Expect at least $800+ in machine work.
*2.4L 7-bolt crank -- Pick up the Eagle crank if possible -- then you don't have to worry about it failing if you are using a used 2.4L crank with regrinds. If you do use a used crank, make damn well sure that it was machined properly and you have the proper bearings for it! Talk to Darren at FFWD Connection for more information on his Butcher crank.

*Eagle Rods
*Ross Pistons -- get them coated. It will help if you ever have detonation issues on pump gas.
*ARP head studs, main studs, (ARP rod bolts come with the rods already)
*Mitsubishi Multilayer Metal Head Gasket
*Good bearings (Clevite, ACL, etc.)
*New front cover assembly
*Balance Shaft elimination kit with balance shaft pulley replacement with the spacer.
*New things like water pump, seals, timing belt pulleys, tensioners, etc.
*New crank angle sensor
*NGK BR7ES spark plugs for 23psi or less, BR8ES plugs for 23-35psi. These plugs will be more resistant to detonation, and are less than $1.60 a piece at places like Farm/Fleet or Fleet/Farm, Checker auto parts, etc.

If you are still running a 2G cylinder head, I would reccomend either getting a race port done on it, or do the easier/cheaper route and swap over a 1991-1992 cylinder head and 1G throttle body, install Brian Crower 272/272 cams, crower springs/retainers, bronze valve guides, stock sized stainless steel valves and new valve seals. You should be expecting around $200-300 in machine work if your brought your head, already bare, with all the new parts to a competent machine shop for them to put it together with a fresh valve job.

For a turbo I would run a DNP T3 tubular exhaust manifold with a Precision Turbo SC61 using a A/R .63 T3 flange, or run a 2G exhaust manifold with a SCM6152SP -- it will only be efficient up to 26psi on the mitsu flange. For more info, PM me or read through the thread below. The T3 will produce more power, and will be quite streetable.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249425

Expect to use a walboro 255HP hardwired, and 1000cc injectors, an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, an upgraded fuel filter with -6AN lines/fittings to the rail and the return to the stock firewall hardline.

What engine management are you running? I would reccomend AEM EMS with the 3.5 Bar MAP sensor and AIT sensor. If you are running an AFC still, it can be done with the 2G MAF (unhacked), but you are going to be pushing it; you will also get more power, gas mileage, etc out of running the AEM with a good tune by someone that is very experienced with them.

I would also reccomend going with a Precision Turbo medium or large intercooler core, and 2.5" IC pipes and a TiAL BOV (if you are changing over to MAP sensor).

What clutch are you running? I would reccomend a Fidanza flywheel and a ACT 2600 pressure plate with the Horsepower Freaks sprung kevlar disk http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mitsubishi/Eclipse-Talon_95-99/South_Bend/Clutch/Clutch_Disks , and a Mitsu TOB.

Next do alot of research, and take your time finding the right shop and machine shop to do the work. Quality is expensive. Get used to it.

Check out these links for more information -- just remember that the info in the first link is for a 4G64 swap. It does have some good info though on problems faced, fixes, and the balance shaft pulley replacement spacer (mitsu part number).
http://www.extremeevolutions.com/4G64_buildup.htm

Other links:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=searchsite -- should have been the first thing you did before posting this.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecltechtips.htm
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2gheadswaptechtip.htm -- head swap info
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ -- ARP hardware
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/butchercrank.shtml -- crank info
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/pistoncoating.shtml -- piston coating info
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=3775&cat=2381&page=1 -- pistons
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=142&cat=199&page=1 -- rods

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html is your new GOD.



I hope that this helps in your BEGINNING of RESEARCHING FOR YOURSELF. You just got alot of good info -- use it.
 
Twicks,


Yeah that was a ton of friggen help.

Sorry I didnt search properly....but Its not big deal to ask for some help from guys who have been there and done that. This is a public forum where Noobs like me can gain advice from guys like you.

Sorry,

Hope the stooopid post didnt waste your time. Thanks for the response though. I am now on the path of getting where I want to be.
 
Sorry I didnt search properly....but Its not big deal to ask for some help from guys who have been there and done that. This is a public forum where Noobs like me can gain advice from guys like you.

Sorry,

Hope the stooopid post didnt waste your time. Thanks for the response though. I am now on the path of getting where I want to be.

It is cool to ask questions, that is what these forums are all about. At the same time, ponder on how many people have likely asked the same questions in the past. By taking the initiative and using the search feature, you can find answers to many of your questions much quicker than by asking here and waiting for responses.

It also gets old for us to answer the same questions every week.

Welcome to DSMtuners. Good luck, and have fun with your project!
 
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