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Dsm 6152rs dbb

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gsxcody

10+ Year Contributor
88
1
May 16, 2010
Snohomish, Washington
I thinking about picking up this dsm flanged dbb 6152rs pte turbo to run on my 2g gsx. the guy im buying it from has the water lines and the oil feed feed from the head.
But his motor is a 92 6 bolt and mine is a 90 6 bolt with a b&m external oil cooler. I havent done a turbo upgrade before but Im just trying to figure out what I would need to properly install this turbo. Im not talking as much about supporting mods like injectors and dsmlink.

Thanks guys,
Also any info about this specific type of turbo would be appreciated


the setup ill be using would be- I have an uninstalled brand new fully built head with supertech valves, kiggly retainers,dual valve springs,nice port and pollish, ill be running. Kelford 272s most likely. Metal hg. Arp headstuds. Dsm link. 3in exhaust. Act 2100 and streetlitefly. Unorthadox crank pulley. Ngk plugs and wires. 1000cc injectors, with wally 255, oil cooler, fmic, yada yada etc et... Stock 6 bolt bottom end
 
Your current turbo isn't water cooled? If it is, it'll be a bolt on affair. If not, depending if your water pipe was swapped for an n/t one, you may just need the water lines and water pipe, neither of which are hard to replace with the turbo out of the way. I had the journal bearing 6152e back in the day and 4th gear became my new favorite over 2nd.
 
hahahah hey man, i might be able to help you install this bad boy or at least show you where the waterlines should be, the oil cooler shouldent be an issue, or have anything to do with your install. i had my water line comming off the filler neck, and there was another water port on the water pipe, just T into it. The feed from the head and the FP blue drain tube, which are included is all you will need to get this sucker bolted up and running. it comes with the .030 restrictor as well so there is no worry about over oiling it. i got full boost 27psi at 4300-4500RPM and it spools super quick inbetween shifts. There shouldent be really any issues, if you want to be safe you can check the oil pressure at the head to be sure you will get enough volume. my car will be up and running with the shep trans in 3 weeks or so its getting picked up by fedex tomorrow to head over to shep. after im back up and running i can help you out with getting the turbo in no problem!

oh yes, last owner made 513.6AWHP 476 ft/lb TQ on a dyno dynamics at pina motorsports and ran a 12.2 1/4 mile. according to DSMLink my car was making about 470 on a shitty tune and 377 TQ, and a 1.5 70-90 on 27 psi with BC272s on a 2.0. Hope thats enough info for ya :) :thumb:

Your current turbo isn't water cooled? If it is, it'll be a bolt on affair. If not, depending if your water pipe was swapped for an n/t one, you may just need the water lines and water pipe, neither of which are hard to replace with the turbo out of the way. I had the journal bearing 6152e back in the day and 4th gear became my new favorite over 2nd.

lucky you, i never got to really experience 4th cause i suck at tuning my timing and id get knock at about 15 psi so id have to back off. but i like 3rd very very very very much, so much it shattered my 3rd 4th sleeve. :thumb: And this one is the 6152R T04S .70AR compressor side 4 inch inlet 2.5 outlet :cool:
 
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If the turbo is a ball bearing you should feed oil from the head for sure. As far as the water lines if you have a water pipe that doesn't have the nipples for turbo cooling lines, then your best bet would probably be to either get a 2g turbo water pipe or just not run coolant through the turbo at all. If you don't run coolant just make sure you always let it idle a bit before shutting your car off, or hook up a turbo timer. :thumb:
 
You cant not run coolant in a ballbearing turbo, they don't get enough oil for that to be the primary source
Of cooling, if he doesnt have a turbo water pipe, and there is no reason he shouldn't, then yea he will have to find one. Thats the worst advice ive ever heard.... "run a ball bearing turbo with no coolant lines" they do have them for a reason you know, if you saw the oil restriction you would know what im talking about, this isnt a holset that needs globs of oil and no coolant. Dont give out misinformation.
 
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Its got coolant lines on it, he just needs coolant hoses to go to his sources.

Plus, the linkyou gave him isn for a garret t3 chra, which the 6152 is

You gave him a link for oem mitsu turbo coolant lines LOL you guys are funny
 
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You cant not run coolent in a ballbearing turbo, they dont get enough oil for that to be the primary source
Of cooling, if he doesnt have a turbo water pipe, and there is no reason he shouldent, then yea he will have to find one. Thats the worst advice ive ever heard.... "run a ball bearing turbo with no coolent lines" they do have them for a reason you know, if you saw the oil restriction you would know what im talking about, this isnt a holset that needs globs of oil and no coolent. Dont give out misinformation.

It's not misinformation. I knew someone was going to say something. I'm not going to start a debate on this like I have in every other thread where I SUGGEST to someone to not run water lines. I've been running no water lines and just oil fed from the head on my 6262 DBB turbo for about 10k miles now with 0 issues. Again not going to start a debate. It was just a suggestion to the OP. He can take my advice or not take it. Side note.. You could try using proper spelling.. I don't know what "coolent" is or what the word "shouldent" means.
 
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And some people run god speed turbos sure it might last for 10k but running a dbb turbo with no COOLANT lines is retarted i dont care what you say.

Read this, and rethink you statement

Water Cooled turbos - They need water!

I read the article and still agree with my statement. Plus I encourage everyone to not take advice from someone who is trying to insult others by saying that something is "retarted" when they are trying to say retarded. :hmm: Makes you think... Plus saying any kind of derogatory statement like that is rude and uncalled for.
 
i would like to know what is the honest purpose of even thinking about taking off the coolant lines it will not make you spool up any faster or benefit you in anyway all it will ever do is shorten the life of your turbo im just trying to see the logic in why people decide to take them off
 
i would like to know what is the honest purpose of even thinking about taking off the coolant lines it will not make you spool up any faster or benefit you in anyway all it will ever do is shorten the life of your turbo im just trying to see the logic in why people decide to take them off

The reason I took them off is because when Buschur built my stage 3 motor he used a 1g NT water pipe so there was no provisions for coolant lines to be run. Plus for some reason when I was running coolant lines with the same turbo they kept either getting burnt by the manifold and breaking or falling off. There is really no gain from running no coolant lines, the reason I do and I assume the reason others do it is because they are having difficulties running coolant lines or don't want to deal with the problems or issues they may have trying to use them. It's a SUGGESTION not to use them. You can find hundreds of debates online about it but I'm just giving my opinion and my experience with not using them.
 
Good call, plus the newer ball bearing PTE CHRA's are air cooled.

yeah okay some are air cooled, they have fins to extract heat and are DESIGNED to be air cooled; but your talking about running a dry chra for one that was made to be wet. Your suggestion for not running waterlines just because you don't have provisions on your water pipe sounds like a band-aid to me. The proper solution would be to get a turbo water pipe... i don't quite see how running an N/T water pipe on a turbo car with a turbo that requires waterlines to be a good idea in the first place.


Try running your motor with no coolant.. even though it requires it. That's a similar statement.... Some motors are air cooled after all. Sort of an ignorant statement on your part IMO.

I read the article and still agree with my statement. Plus I encourage everyone to not take advice from someone who is trying to insult others by saying that something is "retarted" when they are trying to say retarded. :hmm: Makes you think... Plus saying any kind of derogatory statement like that is rude and uncalled for.

I in no way said you were retarded, I said your suggestion was.
 
yeah okay some are air cooled, they have fins to extract heat and are DESIGNED to be air cooled; but your talking about running a dry chra for one that was made to be wet. Your suggestion for not running waterlines just because you don't have provisions on your water pipe sounds like a band-aid to me. The proper solution would be to get a turbo water pipe... i don't quite see how running an N/T water pipe on a turbo car with a turbo that requires waterlines to be a good idea in the first place.


Try running your motor with no coolant.. even though it requires it. That's a similar statement.... Some motors are air cooled after all. Sort of an ignorant statement on your part IMO.

I in no way said you were retarded, I said your suggestion was.

Running a motor with no coolant is not the same concept at all. Plus if you think it is not a good idea about the water pipe then go talk to Buschur who has built some of the world's fastest and reliable 4G63 engines and cars.
Still an arrogant statement you made. I'm ending this here.. this was not a thread to be a an argument between water cooling and non water cooling turbos. Until the OP posts back I'm done with this thread.
 
from justin in another thread:


Ball bearing GT turbos do require coolant no matter what due to the tiny amount of oil they receive; you don't necessarily need to run coolant to a journal bearing turbo.

and the SCM6152 is in fact a garrett T3 CHRA if i do recall, which requires a .030 restriction which is not enough oil flow to cool a CHRA

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/437339-coolant-lines-gt35r-turbo.html

if your turbo hasn't blown yet you must be very lucky.. 10k is a long time go go with no coolant on a BB turbo that receives basically no oil.


(just noticed your arguing with the turbo guru on this same thing in that same post i added.. interesting, pick your battles)

reading more in that thread, the more i realize you are a complete tool and should not be suggesting to people that have legitimate questions bad advice that can cause their turbos to DIE and be out hundreds if not a thousand dollars in this case just because "it worked for you"



/end of rant. OP knows what he needs ive talked to him about it
 
Ball bearing GT turbos do require coolant no matter what due to the tiny amount of oil they receive; you don't necessarily need to run coolant to a journal bearing turbo.

and the SCM6152 is infact a garrett T3 CHRA if i do recall.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/437339-coolant-lines-gt35r-turbo.html
You're right- a ball-bearing 6152 IS in fact a T3-based CHRA and not a true Garrett GT....so all recommended oiling and cooling specs for a GT turbo go out the window for a ball bearing 6152 because it's not based around a sealed-cartridge GT turbo whatsoever.

Perhaps PTE feels you're able to introduce enough oil into the cartridge on that particular turbo that coolant is not required...then again, this is the same company that thinks it's fine to feed their journal bearing turbos 120psi direct from our filter housings so you can keep sending them back to be repaired for seal failures every 6 months. Great way to create business for yourself, don't you think? LOL

I know if I shelled out some serious money on a ball bearing turbo and it had coolant ports, they would be hooked up for sure.
 
You're right- a ball-bearing 6152 IS in fact a T3-based CHRA and not a true Garrett GT....so all recommended oiling and cooling specs for a GT turbo go out the window for a ball bearing 6152 because it's not based around a sealed-cartridge GT turbo whatsoever.

Perhaps PTE feels you're able to introduce enough oil into the cartridge on that particular turbo that coolant is not required...then again, this is the same company that thinks it's fine to feed their journal bearing turbos 120psi direct from our filter housings so you can keep sending them back to be repaired for seal failures every 6 months. Great way to create business for yourself, don't you think? LOL

I know if I shelled out some serious money on a ball bearing turbo and it had coolant ports, they would be hooked up for sure.

put your name as the second word in the post for a reason, so you'd see this LOL:D

PTE also recommended that i feed my 6152 from the OFH as well. even after i specifically asked a second time "so you want me to feed my ball bearing turbo from the ofh"

PTE- yep
me *hangs up*:toobad:
 
If I ran a BB turbo with a wet CHRA, I would run coolant/water through it. And if anyone asked me what I'd recommend to them, I would recommend the same.

Now that that's out of the way, time to split hairs. :) I don't agree with saying "You cant not run coolant in a ballbearing turbo". Recommended against something and saying it "can't be done" are two different things. It heavily depends on the specific turbo and the specific application. Even though it may not be universally recommended, many people are getting away with it sucessfully. Marco's 2G doesn't run coolant to the turbo and neither did his drag rotories. And Mike Reichen's 42r was fine after hundreds of passes and a year of standing mile racing and it was running dry. On a heavily used street car or a road race car, you'd most definitely want to run coolant. Like I said, it really depends on the application. But be careful about what you say cannot be done, because in some cases there are people out there that have already been doing it for years without issues.
 
If I ran a BB turbo with a wet CHRA, I would run coolant/water through it. And if anyone asked me what I'd recommend to them, I would recommend the same.

Now that that's out of the way, time to split hairs. :) I don't agree with saying "You cant not run coolant in a ballbearing turbo". Recommended against something and saying it "can't be done" are two different things. It heavily depends on the specific turbo and the specific application. Even though it may not be universally recommended, many people are getting away with it sucessfully. Marco's 2G doesn't run coolant to the turbo and neither did his drag rotories. And Mike Reichen's 42r was fine after hundreds of passes and a year of standing mile racing and it was running dry. On a heavily used street car or a road race car, you'd most definitely want to run coolant. Like I said, it really depends on the application. But be careful about what you say cannot be done, because in some cases there are people out there that have already been doing it for years without issues.

Very true statement, exactly what I was trying to say to urbansmoker, it was a recommendation by me that the OP could possibly just not run coolant through his turbo. I gave my experience not running water through my CHRA and if the OP wants to do the same that is his choice. Urbansmoker has to blow it out of proportion and be rude calling others "retards" and "tools" and posting false information. I think his reputation speaks for itself. One of you mods should just ban him. :thumb:
 
On a heavily used street car or a road race car, you'd most definitely want to run coolant. Like I said, it really depends on the application. .[/QUOTE]



just remember though crazyquik that it is suggested on dd and street cars to run coolant line so next time you say dont use them verify the fact that it is recommened on a dd to use them :thumb:

EDIT: i dont understand why the quote didnt work that time LOL
 
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