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Dsm 6152rs dbb

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On a heavily used street car or a road race car, you'd most definitely want to run coolant. Like I said, it really depends on the application. .



just remember though crazyquik that it is suggested on dd and street cars to run coolant line so next time you say dont use them verify the fact that it is recommened on a dd to use them :thumb:

EDIT: i dont understand why the quote didnt work that time LOL

I don't see anywhere where the OP stated whether his car was a DD, track car, street car or anything of that sort. I stand by the statements I make. If I didn't I wouldn't post them. And thanks for repeating what 99gstracer just said. I only needed to read it once, no reason to post it a second time. And why is someone who joined this site less than 2 months ago telling me what to post? WTF.
 
If I ran a BB turbo with a wet CHRA, I would run coolant/water through it. And if anyone asked me what I'd recommend to them, I would recommend the same.

Now that that's out of the way, time to split hairs. :) I don't agree with saying "You cant not run coolant in a ballbearing turbo". Recommended against something and saying it "can't be done" are two different things. It heavily depends on the specific turbo and the specific application. Even though it may not be universally recommended, many people are getting away with it sucessfully. Marco's 2G doesn't run coolant to the turbo and neither did his drag rotories. And Mike Reichen's 42r was fine after hundreds of passes and a year of standing mile racing and it was running dry. On a heavily used street car or a road race car, you'd most definitely want to run coolant. Like I said, it really depends on the application. But be careful about what you say cannot be done, because in some cases there are people out there that have already been doing it for years without issues.

i corrected my statement saying a WET CHRA SHOULDN'T be ran dry. i know there are air cooled DBB turbos but they are DESIGNED to be air cooled... i think that crazy quirk is getting butt hurt because i said his IDEA was retarded, never called him retarded never said he was a tool, i said it was a stupid idea to not run water in a turbo designed for it
 
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Hey guys, sorry it took so long for my to reply to everybodys responses on my post. My intention for my build is to have my car be daily drivable, so I will definately be running coolant to the turbo one way or another. That's how is was designed, and I feel like I will get more longevity out of my 1000$ purchase. I'm pretty sure the waterpipe on a 90 4g63t is the same as the n/a waterpipe. So as of now, the plan is to either try to run the waterpipe off of my old 7 bolt motor that I'm not using (if that will work), or to have my waterpipe modified with the banjo fittings.
 
Hey guys, sorry it took so long for my to reply to everybodys responses on my post. My intention for my build is to have my car be daily drivable, so I will definately be running coolant to the turbo one way or another. That's how is was designed, and I feel like I will get more longevity out of my 1000$ purchase. I'm pretty sure the waterpipe on a 90 4g63t is the same as the n/a waterpipe. So as of now, the plan is to either try to run the waterpipe off of my old 7 bolt motor that I'm not using (if that will work), or to have my waterpipe modified with the banjo fittings.

someone correct me if i'm wrong, but cant you just swap the water pipe without changing the filler neck and t-stat housing? or does everyting need to be swapped for the same generation as the water pipe?
 
from justin in another thread:


Ball bearing GT turbos do require coolant no matter what due to the tiny amount of oil they receive; you don't necessarily need to run coolant to a journal bearing turbo.

and the SCM6152 is in fact a garrett T3 CHRA if i do recall, which requires a .030 restriction which is not enough oil flow to cool a CHRA

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/437339-coolant-lines-gt35r-turbo.html

if your turbo hasn't blown yet you must be very lucky.. 10k is a long time go go with no coolant on a BB turbo that receives basically no oil.


(just noticed your arguing with the turbo guru on this same thing in that same post i added.. interesting, pick your battles)

reading more in that thread, the more i realize you are a complete tool and should not be suggesting to people that have legitimate questions bad advice that can cause their turbos to DIE and be out hundreds if not a thousand dollars in this case just because "it worked for you"



/end of rant. OP knows what he needs ive talked to him about it

Pretty clear that you said I was a tool. You have contributed nothing to this thread except being annoying and completely switching up topics rather than answering the questions the OP was asking and giving false information.

GSXcody..1990 4g63 turbo and NT models have different water pipes. The 90 turbo model pipe has provisions for the turbo water feed and return lines but no provisions for the oil cooler coolant lines. Since you said you are using an external oil cooler you would want a 1990 turbo model water pipe if you are going to run water through your turbo like you said in your previous post. Your 7 bolt water pipe will not work. If your questions have been answered please mark this thread as resolved.
 
crazy i wasnt even saying it in an insulting way i was stating that when making such suggestions you SHOULD put that it is recommended for a dd to run coolant lines so if you want to get all upset about my previous statement thats fine with me LOL
 
i dont think he knows that op is buying this turbo from me, and crazy is the one infact that has not contributed anything but trolling about the bandaid waterline issue in the first place. its not recommended on this turbo period. i think hes gotta do the whole waterpipe/tstat housing & Filler neck. if possible from the 7 bolt. i dont know if its possible for sure, as i have a 2g head on a 6 bolt block. not sure about the water lines on the 6 bolt head. is your built head a 1g or 2g? cause if its a 2g it would make everything alot easier for you haha
 
yes it all has to be the same as far as i know you cant do a 7 bolt head 6 bolt block setup and use the water lines to the turbo cause it just wont work but if its all 6 bolt or all 7 bolt then he can set it up with the water lines
 
The head Im going to run is a 6 bolt head.

Im going to pull my turbo off this weekend to replace a gasket, so Ill be able to get a much better look at the waterpipe.
 
someone correct me if i'm wrong, but cant you just swap the water pipe without changing the filler neck and t-stat housing? or does everyting need to be swapped for the same generation as the water pipe?
The t-stat housing needs to match the generation of water pipe being used.
 
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