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ECMlink Dreaded idle surge after AEM wideband install?.?

Posted by Sbgriffin, Apr 1, 2019

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  1. 406_Talon

    406_Talon Supporting Member

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    Joined Jun 30, 2014
    Kalispell, Montana
    I just wanted to chime in here because I just installed a uego in my car too, and I had a bit of a time with it. At first, using any of the maps in ecmlink I got what seemed like surge, but it was just my simulated nb switch point being in the wrong place in the curve (I think). But once I got it set up as linear and sleuthed out the values, I was able to get the switch point (2.53 for me) and then I got normal oscillating o2 and responding trims and was able to set my ISC at 30. I think the trick is to turn the key to on but not start it, with raw volts logged, and once it's hot, that's your max volts setting in link, and the reading on the gauge is your max lambda. I know you have wiring issues too, but maybe that will help when you go to get it all buttoned back up.
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
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  2. Sbgriffin

    Sbgriffin Proven Member

    165
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    Joined Jun 14, 2017
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Well this one is a rough one for me admit, but my hopes here is possibly prevent another member from making the same bonehead mistake. So let start by saying, anyone with a 1g knows the very limited options for running wires through the firewall. Your options are, running through the steering column boot, pulling a fender to get to a plug, or jamming your wires through engine harness boot. At the time I really didn't like any of these options, being that the uego harness plug is fairly odd shaped. So I decided to try my luck drilling my own hole, and hoped to make it big enough for future wiring. I had searched, and found an old thread from a fellow 1g guy. He had luck pulling the battery tray, and went right Below AC connection. Sounded perfect for ease of running the wires. Anyway I drilled one small pilot hole in the same location, and tried to snake a piece of bailing wire through. Just to see if it would work, but I couldn't get it to pop all the way through. I decided at that point I didn't like the placement of that, and decided to go with a different place all together. Way to close to the harness LoL.

    So the first pic down below is what happened from the one tiny pilot hole I drilled. This is what has been causing so much grief and misery the past month. The second pic is where I decided to go with the wiring, and highly recommend it over the first. There nothing in the way to hit, on either side of the firewall. And if you can't tell it's behind the ECU, which you'll need to pop out of the way to drill.

    So this definitely a tough lesson, and hard on my pride. But at least I know now, and I definitely can fix this. I'm fairly good at soldering, and wiring fixes. Sh#t happens, so long as we learn from it. And try to prevent it from happening again. I've appreciated all help and advice through this BS, thanks.

    20190414_173610.jpg
    20190414_173825.jpg
     

    Street Build 805  22

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM
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  3. tk106

    tk106 Proven Member

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    Oh man. We all live and learn. At least you found the problem. I knew it had to do with the install but that I would not have been my guess in a billion years. LOL :beatentodeath:
     

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  4. 406_Talon

    406_Talon Supporting Member

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    Joined Jun 30, 2014
    Kalispell, Montana
    Damn. Splicing it wouldn't be bad though... Man,that diagnosis would've eluded me for a while haha.
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  5. dantheman91gsx

    dantheman91gsx Probationary Member

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    Joined May 18, 2015
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Ouch.....man that couldn't have gone any worse but at least you were able to find it. Soldier that sucker up....and dont forget your heat strink.
     

    Street Build 213  2

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    10.79 @ 131 · 1G DSM
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  6. Sbgriffin

    Sbgriffin Proven Member

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    Joined Jun 14, 2017
    Lewiston, Idaho
    That's just my luck, I can't leave anything up to chance. It's like a curse at times. But trying to look at the bright side. Think of how bad that could have gone. A fried ecu, or sensors, or it could have burnt my car up a month down the road.
    I made quick work out of fixing it today before work. After getting the harness peeled open it was cake. Only one that was a little tough was the shielded o2 wires. Now I just gotta button everything back up. Be rolling by weekend I hope.
    20190415_151511.jpg 20190415_151642.jpg 20190415_162648.jpg 20190415_162833.jpg
     

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    1991 Eagle Talon TSi
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  7. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    Seattle area, Washington
    Wow you hit that one dead center haha!

    As long as we are talking about holes through the firewall to run wires, could you guys tell me what the fitting is in this picture?
    It is the one clean shiny object in the whole picture, looks like aluminum.
    It is on the firewall on the passenger side under the battery (battery was removed in this pic).
    Is this something I could drill out and run some wires through?

    fitting on firewall under the battery.jpg
     

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  8. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    Thats the connection for the a/c lines, if your a/c blows warm...you now know why!
     

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  9. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    LOL thanks.
    My AC is all removed so that's good, I could use it probably.
     

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    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    650 whp · 510 lb/ft · 1G DSM

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  10. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    Wallingford, Connecticut
    wow dead center, you must have been so pumped to find that after all this. I know I wouldve been thrilled to find a solid reason like that
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  11. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    If you remove the core, you could maybe find a way, but without the evaporator core in there it goes directly into the heat/ac ducting, so you'd have to make an additional grommet or hole back out of the ducting.

    Could always make a smaller pieces of ducting to replace the evaporator box, then you'd have plenty of room for wiring to go around there.
     

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    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

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  12. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    Seattle area, Washington
    Oh Yeah.
    Maybe instead of going right through that fitting, maybe I should look at making a new hole a little underneath that fitting and a bit inboard too. What do you think about that? Maybe I would have to make a cover like a dummy foot pedal over it in the passenger footwell haha!
     

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    650 whp · 510 lb/ft · 1G DSM

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  13. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    I ran some of my wiring through there, just below the ac drain tube. It's multilayered steel there so you have to drill a bit, but it works well for me, and comes out under the carpet so you don't have to hide anything.
     

    99  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 580  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  14. Sbgriffin

    Sbgriffin Proven Member

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    Lewiston, Idaho
    Just be cautious man, learn from my stupidity LOL. Otherwise it's a great location to run wiring through, comes out in an ideal location.

    So one last question, a little off topic. So like I stated, I switched back to my narrow band o2 for normal operations. And was planning on welding in a bung this weekend for my wideband. Also was intending on tapping into the egr input for my logging. But I just ran across something on the ECM link wiki that says it's not 100% compatible with AEM wideband. It didn't specifically say the uego wideband, and mine is the latest version. With the bosch 4.9 sensor. Does anyone know if I'll have issues using that for my 5v input? If so, what's my best options? Thanks.
     

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  15. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    I would also like to know if some people are having trouble logging the newer AEM wideband, the 30-0300 (X-series).

    All I know is that the older one, the model # 30-4110 which they made up until 2016 has been bad for logging in ECMlink, to the point that ECMtuning somewhere said they almost decided to give up on supporting it.

    My 30-4110 was brand new in early 2016 and it uses the “Bosch LSU 4.9 only” like the newer one.

    At that time the newer one was “we heard of it but we can’t get them yet”.

    I’ve pretty much given up on mine because the fix in that video we had back in post #38 won’t work on it because it’s the raw voltages that are way off. It’s not a matter of calibration.

    For example, during a hard pull, my “RawLinWb” voltage is 3.06 volts, which using the AEM supplied table comes out to an AFR of 16.2 and sure enough my log of the AEM linear wideband A/F says 16.2.

    Of course the real AFR at the time is more like 11.5 to 1, and my “AFRatioEst” knows that.

    I have it on the EGR input. Maybe a different input would be better? That’s all I can think of but I doubt that is it. I think it is just a bad signal from the AEM.

    What kills me is I had an Innovate LC-1 on the car that logged really nice and had very fast response too, but ER took it off the car and then they called me and said they wanted to put an AEM on it before dyno tuning it. Argh. I don’t know of any problems with the Innovate LC-1 or LC-2 which is their newer one.

    The X-series AEM UEGO might be ok, I don’t know.
     

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  16. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    I had the same part #30-4110. Looking at the manual now, the p/n is printed right on the cover. I dont think your doing it right to be honest.......take a close look. Watch the vid again, or even a few times. Make sure you really get it.

    Best of luck, takes a little doing for sure

    I heard the X series logs just like the Innovate products, no personal experience yet though.
     

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  17. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    Hey that made it actually pretty good! I think.
    The first time I watched that video I noticed that the voltages he was reading from RawLinWB agree very close to the table given in the AEM manual. I knew that my voltages are completely different from the table. So I thought my voltages were way off. But when I actually go ahead and try my reported voltages in there it comes out pretty good in most places.
    My raw voltage goes up instead of down when the AFR is richer. Weird. So I have 3.24 volts at AFR=11.5 where the AEM table has 0.75 volts and the video would have a little over 1 volt.
    When I get my car running again I'll try using these values that I came up with tonight by fooling around with logs on my desktop in the apartment (not connected to the ecu).

    My car is sitting in a tightly packed garage right now with a broken transmission. 26 pounds of boost was too much for the poor thing haha! Oh it was ready to pop. It went just as my wastegate was starting to open.

    Something still bothers me about the voltages I came up with. My entire range from 14.7 to 11.5 AFR is covered by a difference of only 0.4 volts. That's not very fine resolution. The chart values show 1.62 volts difference between 14.7 and 11.5. That would be a lot better.
    Anyway Thanks! And here's what I wound up with:


    this is my lambda table April 17 after putting values in from my raw volts.PNG
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019

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  18. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    sounds like your on the right track now. dont settle, keep playing with it if your not happy
     

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  19. We're on Boost

    We're on Boost Proven Member

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    Joined Aug 25, 2007
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    Yeah I agree. My most unhappy point about it right now is that it is hard to have any confidence in a device when the manual has a chart for how it is supposed to act and the actual device does something completely different !!

    So I should at some point put a real voltmeter on that wire that comes from the AEM to the ECU and see if I get the same number that I see in RawLinWB. Maybe there is something strange going on there.
    I mean maybe RawLinWB is not a straight-up voltage reading of the sensor output. Maybe it is Something Else.
    If anybody is using a high "Min volts" number like I showed in my screen shot, give me a holler! I'd like to know.

    Do you like your Innovate MTX-L pretty well?
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019

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  20. dantheman91gsx

    dantheman91gsx Probationary Member

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    Joined May 18, 2015
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Nice repair job...even though the shielding was damaged on th O2 sensor at least you wrapped it up.
     

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