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Does this sound like a timing issue or bottom end

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AlwaysSunnyOhio

Proven Member
171
38
Jul 6, 2014
Columbus, Ohio
I bought this car to build but if possible would like to see it run. Car starts right up but there's no power and also a more of a tick than a knock that increases with the rpm's. It has a 1g block and a 2g head.

Did the compression test this isn't firing order just left from right.

Cylinder #1
90 dry
180 wet

Cylinder #2
110 dry
180 wet

Cylinder #3
115 dry
220-240 wet (did this one twice due to the huge difference.)

Cylinder #4
90 dry
185 wet

I have everything to rebuild the top half with supertech beehives and valves. I was going to put wiseco and acl in the block. I'm not one of those guys wanting to get 300hp out of a stock car. Either way I'm rebuilding it right. I would just like to see it run before I pull the motor if possible.
 
Your compression is below service limits. Do a leak down test to determine where your compression is leaking from.
 
I didn't hold the throttle down, but I did use plenty of cranks to get a good reading. I can do it again though if it will help find the source.

The car is smoking out of the tail pipe. I can't really see a color cause it only does it on start up. I've never had anyone start the car for me so I've never watched it up close.​
[DOUBLEPOST=1407612107][/DOUBLEPOST]The previous owner installed a td05h turbo and he said it was recently rebuilt. It does look clean like it was recently taken off. There's no oil in the cool side or hot side and spins without any play.

Although when I first got it you could hear the turbo build and release boost. I let it sit for a month to clear out another project and now nothing. It is recirculated but I could still hear it.
 
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I would just do a leakdown test to find out where you are leaking from. There is absolutely nothing wrong with making 300 horsepower on a stock bottom end. IF that is all you are shooting for than forged internals would be a big waste of money. If the leak is just in the valves, i would rebuild the head and put it back on along with cleaning things up, and do all maintnance things before thinking about upgrading anything.
 
Well I've wanted this car for about 12 years now. My friends all think I'm crazy for buying it but this is going to that car that I keep for a long time. I want to build it right and make it bullet proof. I don't consider that wasting money because I'm not sure how far I want to take it.
 
Well I've wanted this car for about 12 years now. My friends all think I'm crazy for buying it but this is going to that car that I keep for a long time. I want to build it right and make it bullet proof. I don't consider that wasting money because I'm not sure how far I want to take it.

well of course all your friends will be/think like that, almost everyone I talk to wont buy a car if they have to build it to make it fast, but thats what makes our cars unique, we build them ourselves...well sometimes with help of other machine shops and such etc.

but whats the fun in buying an already built brand new expensive exotic car, if it is only gonna fall apart, and be even harder to diagnose then a dsm, since it's a new hypothetical sports-car and everything is undocumented, unicorns, green beans, and plastic under the hood LOL.

But seriously, do a leak down test if you can, if not see whats coming out the exhaust, and if it smells weird.

Also what was the condition of the spark plugs when you first pulled them?
 
I've came close to buying this car twice and finally I just jumped on it. One of my oldest friends got so mad and said it will never be a corvette or a 370z. Well that's cool cause I don't want either of those.

I'm pretty picky about my cars. I don't like anything new except of course for the Subaru STI's.

I saw harbor freight has a leak down tester for $40. I'll grab one of those and see if it's accurate. Yesterday I tried to check out the smoke situation. I would say it's black smoke.

Right now I'm trying to finish the body work and paint the car. So if it was mobile would have saved some hassle. When I'm done with the motor in November-December the car will be already to go. I know that's not the optimal situation but I can always fix any scratches next spring.

One thing I've never done and if anyone has any input on I would appreciate it. How much should I expect to pay for a to get the block worked over? Just looking at getting tanked, small bore, and make sure it's all good to go.

I know people always do this but this is just what I was going to start with.
Supertech valves, guides and beehives
Itm lash adjusters (just put them in. One if my buddies insisted on that being the problem)
Picked up a set if hks cam gears for $200
Arp head studs
Cometic headgasket
Was going with wiseco pistons
Acl rod and main bearings
Don't know about keeping the 1g rods and crank. I heard they are good up to 500hp
And while I'm in there a new flywheel and clutch

Dsm link
Innovate wideband
Aem fuel rail
1000cc injectors
Full exhaust from turbo elbow back. With a magnaflow exhaust welded in.

I have everything except for the pistons I want to inspect the block before I buy those.
 
Agreed about what was said about the stock bottom end. Mine is running 357 awhp and no problems. I would not recommend an ACT clutch I bought one brand new and have nothing but problems.. Everything on your list looks pretty decent.
 
I was looking for a nice strong clutch. The one in there now is so soft I could hardly shift.

I would be happy with 357. I know how I am with this stuff. All I want now is 400 tops. Then I'll get into it and want 500. I also just like knowing exactly what condition my motor is in.
 
Comp clutch, stage 4. That'll hold more than you want and from what i saw after 4500 miles, they hold up very well. At least mine did.
 
I didn't hold the throttle down, but I did use plenty of cranks to get a good reading. I can do it again though if it will help find the source.

The car is smoking out of the tail pipe. I can't really see a color cause it only does it on start up. I've never had anyone start the car for me so I've never watched it up close.​
[DOUBLEPOST=1407612107][/DOUBLEPOST]The previous owner installed a td05h turbo and he said it was recently rebuilt. It does look clean like it was recently taken off. There's no oil in the cool side or hot side and spins without any play.

Although when I first got it you could hear the turbo build and release boost. I let it sit for a month to clear out another project and now nothing. It is recirculated but I could still hear it.

Your not going to get accurate readings (they will be low like yours are) if the plate is closed in the throttle body when you turn over the engine. Pull all plugs, disable fuel by pulling fuse, screw in comp tester, hold throttle all the way open, and turn over engine till needle on comp tester stabilizes (reaches a stable peak). then re-post your new readings back here. As others have said the best way and the most accurate way to see what's going on with the engine is a leak down test, make sure you are on the compression stroke and at TDC on each cylinder you are testing when applying air pressure. The harbor freight leak down tester are junk unless you modify them. Stock they regulate the amount of pressure at a low number like 15 to 25 psi. I like to put at least 100psi into the cylinder to get a accurate reading. I would spend the extra money and get a quality tester. If it is only smoking on start up then it is either running rich (unburnt fuel) at start up or you probably have valve stem seals leaking. depends on color and smell of smoke. hope this helps.
 
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