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Does crank walk usually break timing belt?

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gsxlol

Probationary Member
16
0
Jul 29, 2012
Gonzales, Louisiana
I think my gsx may have walked. I was driving to work not getting on it or anything. Car died while driving, backfired very loud twice and wouldn't start. I had pulled over on the side of the interstate. Oil light was on but there was no oil on the ground and was only maybe half a quart low on the dipstick. Took the timing belt cover off and saw the belt in shreds. I towed the car home and it's been sitting since. I assumed that it walked but after watching quite a few crank walk tear down videos I've noticed a lot of intact timing belts. I'm beginning to wonder if maybe the belt just snapped and I may just need a new head. I haven't done any of the tests to check for crank walk yet, but I'm just curious if it's common for the belt to be shredded or snapped when a 7 bolt walks.
 
How old was that belt? They need to changed out every 60k or so as they break down over time. Sounds like it was old and just broke. Or something may have gotten in there. I had a bolt come loose and jam itself between the belt and cover. But caught it before it did any damage. The backfire was probably the belt slipping before shredding causing the cam timing to move. Highly unlikely crank walk caused it. That's a thrust bearing problem. Right now you need to check the head for bent valves and go from there.
 
Doubtful the crank has that much end play to break the belt. You would bust the crank sensor first, then the car would just shut down.

How long since the timing belt was done?

What Hyd tenstioner was used? What brand belt?

If the belt is in shreds, then yes you bent valves, and cracked guides.

BTW, I have a 7 bolt here that has .050 worth of end play, with out prying on the crank.

It broke the crank sensor, but did not bust the belt.

When you pull down, check your crank sensor, you may have busted that when the belt cut loose
 
Belts don't usually break because of crankwalk. Like Dale said, you destroy the CPS first and then it shuts off -unless you have a 1G CAS swap.

The oil light came on because something knocked the single wire off of the dummy light sender, probably the timing belt or whatever else was secondarily damaged.
 
The timing belt and tensioner had less than 5000 miles on them and they were oem parts from mitsu. I'm gonna go ahead and pull the head off and have it rebuilt. I have a completely evo valve train and cams from a buddy that upgraded everything in his evo
 
Are you sure the belt was tensioned correctly? There is a specification for the hydraulic tensioner when installed with a new belt. A trick for seeing if it is correct is to take a small allen wrench and if it will go through the hole on the tensioner body and in the center part of the tensioner freely, then it's good to go. (The actual spec on this is like .150-.170; but its virtually impossible to get a micrometer in there while the engine in the car) If the holes do not line up, the belt is too loose; even though it may feel ok.
 
I think my gsx may have walked. I was driving to work not getting on it or anything. Car died while driving, backfired very loud twice and wouldn't start. I had pulled over on the side of the interstate. Oil light was on but there was no oil on the ground and was only maybe half a quart low on the dipstick. Took the timing belt cover off and saw the belt in shreds.
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You shredded the timing belt and bent valves as a result of a faulty part in the timing system or a faulty belt. This has nothing to do with crankwalk for god's sake.

The timing belt and tensioner had less than 5000 miles on them and they were oem parts from mitsu.
How about the idler / tensioner pulleys?
 
I haven't checked anything yet really. I was just so fed up with the car after everything else that I've had fixed on it I was almost chalking it up to crank walk as an excuse to myself to just get rid of the Damn thing. It's been a little over a month that it's been sitting up and I've gotten over the initial frustration. I've decided to actually look into it and I'm leaning toward a poorly installed timing belt being the culprit. I'll just do it myself this time around I suppose.
 
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