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Disengagement

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91dsmtalon

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
Apr 12, 2005
Omaha, Nebraska
I did some searching and I couldn't quite find an answer definte enough for me. I bought my 91 TSi AWD and the guy who sold it to me said he recently rebuilt the transmission and installed a "Racing" Clutch Im almost 99% Sure it was an ACT 2600 or 2900, my problem now is the car shifts like shit, it will lock out of most gears, pop out of reverse, and grind in every gear 70% of the time it goes in, also the clutch peadal after being pushed in will only come up halfway. I have to pull it the rest of the way with my foot. I have bled my system and that has done nothing to fix the problem. I was considering trying to adjust my clutch pedal assebly but remeber reading somewhere a while back that this was not a good fix and I could still be damaging my clutch. My other thought was the 1/4" longer slave rod, but now I read in a article that this too could also be bad, what do you guys think? :confused:
 
i think there was some confusion.

'It needs a rebuilt tranny and racing clutch.'

turned into

'It has a rebuilt tranny and racing clutch.'

You can adjust the clutch above the gas pedal. Its a pita to get to, and you have to adjust the rod away towards the motor to get more disengagement aka less grinding (if possible) Do not leave it only by a few threads or it will come out and you will have no clutch and the possibilty of being stuck in gear and having to pull over and adjust and bla bla. BTW the nut is a 12mm use a wrench.


Did you test drive it before you bought it? Did you ask why it was so bad if you did? What did you pay for it? Did you change the tranny fluid? Did he say anything about the master or slave cylinder?
 
Yea I test drove it, the problem has progressively gotten worse, there is no mistake on the wording though, on the ad it specifically said in one section rebuilt head, and transmission and the other "New racing Clutch!", I'm pretty sure he messed up hardcore on the transmission but I'm hoping he didn't royal screw up the clutch as well. I drained the transmission and I pulled out about 1/4 of a quart of fluid, thats all! I put back in about 3 some, and also noticed I was missing a bolt in my transmission. I found a bolt that would fit in that hole but when I put it in, the bolt was too long and it wouldnt shift to any gear but 3rd and 4th WTF I cut the bolt back enough so that it would plug the hole without going into the transmission. I'm going to try and adjust the pedal tonight, but really wanna try and fix it someother way before ordering a 1/4" longer slave rod and finding out its no good and will just ruin my car more.
 
if the 1/4in rod doesnt work try the welding of a nut on the adjustment piece where the master cylinder screws in. I did this about a week ago in my talon and it actually feels like its suppose too. OMG
 
No, JB weld will not hold up. If it does, I woulden't even want to try it. When I extended my previous master cylinder, I didn't weld it. I cut a little piece of the thread off, Then put a bolt half way threaded to the end, Then a little piece of thread in the other end, So both ends meet. Then I put a locking nut on each side of that bolt. The best way, Would be to have it welded. Either way, The master cylinder hasto come off to do this, Which only takes 5 minutes or less if you know exactly what you're doing. It's very easy.

Now that I just read your first post, Did you take the pedal assembly out and weld the end? I had to do this. It was a pain in the ass, But it had to be done. Over time the square hole on the assembly wears out which causes it to become circle. Then, When you push the clutch pedal in, There is alot more freeplay, And if you push the clutch to the floor, Let it come up.. And you can lift it up with your hand, You most likly need to take the assembly out and have it welded, Or get a new one. Did you change the slave and master cylinder?
 
91dsmtalon said:
I was considering trying to adjust my clutch pedal assebly but remeber reading somewhere a while back that this was not a good fix and I could still be damaging my clutch. My other thought was the 1/4" longer slave rod, but now I read in a article that this too could also be bad, what do you guys think? :confused:
The longer rod can be bad. Clutch pedal adjustment is mandatory.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
 
Thanks Defiant I remembered reading that article a while back but had trouble finding it now! :thumb: Adjusted the clutch pedal and I would say grinding is down 80% Before the car would occasionally pull forward in first with the clutch pedal all the way in, the problem has now been solved! (that I know of) I had to adjust it all the way out that I thought I safely could, the end of the adjustment rod is about flush with the bracket holding it, the end opposite the master cylinder. The car is old so I think I'm going to be safe rather than sorry and replace the Master/Slave cylinders too. Thanks for clearing this up for me guys!
 
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