Disengagement issues

[Scuba_Steve]

Hello,
I have been fighting with a new clutch install for quite a while now on my 91 Talon AWD. I finally get everything together and the clutch will not disengage at all. I have changed to a new 6 puck unsprung, new OEM tob, fork, ball, clip, rebuilt slave. The fork seems to be in the correct position, quite a bit off center towards driver side. I adjusted the pedal as far as it will go, along with the cruise switch. The slave is still bleeding properly. Pedal seems somewhat stiff after just a few inches of travel, and can be pushed to floor. When in up position the pedal will not move up further freely so I dont think the pedal is getting sloppy. I have bled system probably 50 times in my continuing effort to figure this out, both using the pedal method, and trying to bleed by pushing in the slave. I see no leakage at the slave, or master. Slave seems to be moving quite a bit, and is not slowly returning with the pedal down. As of now I have tried everything I can to fix this, and I am stumped.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Crawl up under the dash and take a look at the pedal assembly. Move the pedal with your hand and watch the master cylinder rod. The slightest movement of the pedal should make that rod move forward. If it doesn't, the pedal assembly is probably shot.

Pedal assemblies can be deceiving. Assuming that the transmission is bolted on tight with ALL the bolts, the car starts, and its bled properly, I would have to say the pedal assembly is the only thing left.

I bet you changed your clutch because it wouldnt disengage at all, huh? A clutch that causes that kind of problem would have broken springs on the disc or a damaged pressure plate. What was the condition of that old clutch you pulled out?

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Nope, old clutch smelled like it was burning a little, and I just wanted an upgrade. The springs were fine, but the street disk looked a little chewed up. The clutch in there now is an unsprung 6 puck. I will have to take a look when I can, but it seemed while I was under there that it moved immediately. I wasn't specifically looking for that though. Also just to confirm, if the master rod is adjusted all the way, I should see no threads coming out towards the seat correct? Or am I completely backwards. The pedal moves towards the firewall if I adjust it the other way, so Im pretty sure Im correct...

 

[livedsm4g63]

If you are running out of master cylinder rod it will either be your assembly or possibly the master or slave cylinder. I would lean towards the master cylinder because if you can still press in the slave, when there is no more rod left at the mster cylinder to work with, your clutch isnt adjusted right because you still havent hit the bleeder. I would say new oem master cylinder, and possibly a new oem slave

 

[BrokenTsi]

Go on youtube and search "jackstranmissions", there is a great video on master and slave cylinders.

 

[habitatguy187]

Jack from jackstransmissions says to only use oem master and slaves. I've been through a lot because I didn't and had the clutch adjusted all the way out to where the tob was putting pressure on the PP all the time. I just blew up my second TOB because of this over the weekend - Broke My Clutch Assembly Again Last Night - IndyCarz . This time around I'm getting oem master and slaves.

 

[BrokenTsi]

Looks like to me that you're over extending your clutch and you need to build a clutch stop, according to the pics in your link that you posted. What kind of clutch was it?

 

[habitatguy187]

Looks like to me that you're over extending your clutch and you need to build a clutch stop, according to the pics in your link that you posted. What kind of clutch was it?

An Exedy stage 1 I picked up for cheap. And when I put the trans back on after blowing the TOB the first time I started adjusting with the engagement point at it's highest and worked my way down to make sure I wasn't over-extending it. I ended up having to cut out the carpet and sound deadening pad under the clutch pedal to get it to disengage. I was just being cheap and this is the result.

I'll know for sure when I put it back together using oem stuff.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Just had a thought. I never saw or read anything about this so I don't think its so. The clutch isnt vacuum assisted in some way is it? I have horrible vacuum leaks everywhere, and was going to work on these as soon as I was finish with this part of the project. I didn't think they could have been interrelated...

 

[TSIfreek]

Just had a thought. I never saw or read anything about this so I don't think its so. The clutch isnt vacuum assisted in some way is it? I have horrible vacuum leaks everywhere, and was going to work on these as soon as I was finish with this part of the project. I didn't think they could have been interrelated...

No it is not vacume assisted it is a very simple and basic system. From what I have read I would go with new OEM master and slave with a washer behind the fork pivot ball. Use only OEM parts on the clutch as everything else is rebuilt junk.
I would have to say your petal assembly sounds ok at this point but keep an eye on it.