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Did I get ripped off???

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1gforme

Probationary Member
25
0
Jun 16, 2007
South Yarmouth, Massachusetts
So I picked up a 1992 GS-T from someone in my town ($1800). The battery wouldn't charge and they said they replaced the alternator. I checked the alternator and it was not charging, while my friend and I were replacing it we noticed there was no exhaust gasket installed and basically a hole blowing hot air right onto the alternator. $7.95 part, Installed new alternator AND gasket, its been about 3 weeks.. i've driven her around 200 miles and the battery has not died.. mind you.. its winter, heat on.. installed a new stereo w/an ipod hook up.. battery has not died yet.. so i think thats okay. My next problem was it was idling around 2k.. I did a little research on here and played with the throttle cable and adjusting the screw under the black rubber gromet. Im now idling @ 1k cold and 800/900 warm *hard to tell exactly* my next issue i need to tackle is the turbo piping.. this car was owned by an idiot who did a few things to the car which i am not pleased with.. but i can easily fix.. 1 ..cut a hole on the drivers side of the hood.. right where the bump is for the camgears... its the absolute dumbest thing i've ever seen.. its really pissing me off.. CF hood will fix that.

2nd.. they took off hte stock spoiler.. they farking taped over the holes ... yeah.. i gotta fix that in the spring too.. other then that.. the car had some good work done to it. The reason why i bought it is because im friends w/the owner of the shop who did all the work too it. they actually bought quality parts for it.. installed eagle rods and things of that nature. ..my question.. i've labeled the pictures.. Im not a turbo guy.. this is my first turbo car.. i really know jack squat about this.. but i really really need help finding out WTF is going on.

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I know a pipe is missing.. or something.. can someone tell me whats missing and how i can get one to put it on? or would an FMIC fix this issue?


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the last thing.. an Autometer boost gauge was installed in the absolute worst freakin place ever.. right by the ignition switch.... but when the car idle the vac gauge stays constantly @ 20.. is that good or bad? it does not move until i give some gas.. seems onpar w/the stock boost gauge on the dash.


i would really like some help.. I love this car already.. its a lot of fun to drive.
 
So I picked up a 1992 GS-T from someone in my town ($1800). Installed new alternator AND gasket, its been about 3 weeks.. My next problem was it was idling around 2k.. I did a little research on here and played with the throttle cable and adjusting the screw under the black rubber gromet. Im now idling @ 1k cold and 800/900 warm *hard to tell exactly* 1 ..cut a hole on the drivers side of the hood.. right where the bump is for the camgears... CF hood will fix that.

2nd.. they took off hte stock spoiler..
i would really like some help.. I love this car already.. its a lot of fun to drive.

1) Replace ALL the O Rings on your Power Steering Pump ASAP, they are probably leaking P/S Fluid on your NEW Alternator, the Fluid will kill it AND YOUR ECU in the process.

2) Hold off on the CF Hood expense, blank the hole off somehow & spend money elsewhere - like that ORIGINAL upper Radiator Hose for instance...

3) The stock Spoiler Mounting stuff is pretty much Pure Plastic Chrysler Crap so the original probably just fell off somewhere - You may want to mount it with better stuff & pick up a stock or aftermarket Spoiler at the Junkyard.

4) Spend a LOT of time going over the VFAQ, like the part that covers Base Idle.

5) LOTS of other good advice in this Thread from guys who care - LISTEN.

6) You did NOT get ripped off but you CAN blow this thing up in a heartbeat & TOAST what appears to be a pretty sound Motor if you don't be REALLY careful here in this early period where you find the NOT so little "LAND MINES" that the previous Owner left you - Good Luck~!
 
1) Replace ALL the O Rings on your Power Steering Pump ASAP, they are probably leaking P/S Fluid on your NEW Alternator, the Fluid will kill it AND YOUR ECU in the process.

2) Hold off on the CF Hood expense, blank the hole off somehow & spend money elsewhere - like that ORIGINAL upper Radiator Hose for instance...

3) The stock Spoiler Mounting stuff is pretty much Pure Plastic Chrysler Crap so the original probably just fell off somewhere - You may want to mount it with better stuff & pick up a stock or aftermarket Spoiler at the Junkyard.

4) Spend a LOT of time going over the VFAQ, like the part that covers Base Idle.

5) LOTS of other good advice in this Thread from guys who care - LISTEN.

6) You did NOT get ripped off but you CAN blow this thing up in a heartbeat & TOAST what appears to be a pretty sound Motor if you don't be REALLY careful here in this early period where you find the NOT so little "LAND MINES" that the previous Owner left you - Good Luck~!

1) already had the p/s pump looked at its fine..

2) Im going to my friends shop after work.. we're going to weld a plate on the underside of the hood to fix that stupid ass hole

3) I am not putting a spoiler back on.. i like it better w/out one.

4) i've been looking @ vfaq... kinda hard to read...i'll keep cracking at it.

5) I agree!

6) Im glad to see i have not gotten ripped off..
Does the car have a boost controller? How much is your aftermarket gauge reading at open throttle? My guess is you're pushing a few more PSI. And do come up with something to temporarily cover up the hole in the hood, thats a disaster waiting to happen.

I have an HKS manual boost controller. right now @ open throttle its 14lbs. im thinking of turning it down to 8 or so till i know everything is fixed.


I just got off the phone with my friend who is a mechanic @ the shop i go too. he told me my BOV vents to the atmosphere, So what do i do about the recirulation hose? do i plug it?
 
The hose goes from your intake to you BOV just get a piece of hose that will fit with 2 clamps

your BOV with stock Mass Airflow Sensor Reads that you are recurcing into the intake. just get the hose and the claps and get it fixed.
 
the bov has no outlet for the hose to connect too because it vents to the atmosphere... so should i just cap the old recirculation valve off my hks mas unit?

*bang head into wall* this is utterly confusing..



or..

should i just buy a stock 1g bov and hook up the hose.. all im losing is that bov woosh sound right?.. i could go w/out that.
 
Actually, without the recirculating hose, your pulling in unmetered air. This is technically not a boost leak since your intake pipe does not see boost pressure, although I'm not sure how that would effect your vacuum readings at idle.

Normally, when venting to atmosphere you car will run rich... in this case I'm going to guess that you're pulling in alot more unmetered air then losing it, which will cause your car to run on the lean side :notgood:

The recirc tube on the intake is plugged so it should not be pulling in unmetered air (it is plugged with a rag so it may not completely sealed) But the BOV is venting so that would be loosing metered air.

should i just buy a stock 1g bov and hook up the hose.. all im losing is that bov woosh sound right?.. i could go w/out that.

Yes, get a 1g or some type of BOV that has a place for the hose, you will loose some of the sound but you will gain a better running engine.
 
Wait... what kind of BOV is it?

If it's a Greddy Type S or RS then just get the hose like mentioned previously.

If it's a HKS SSQV you'll have to buy the recirc adaptor for it. Then clamp the hose to your intake and BOV.

If it's a Tial, Turbo XS... your SOL :) J/k... you'll need either an OEM 1g BOV or a get a Greddy.

** You can sell the Tial or Turbo XS if you like... or hold on to them until you get a MAF-T w/ GM MAF **
 
Good Gawd, man

Buy a 1g BOV (if you don't already have one). It's like $25 and $5 for they gasket. You can buy both on ebay.

To find a hose take the 1g BOV and find some raditor hose that fits over it. It's ok if it's a little loose. You can clamp it down.

From there read on VFAQ (link posted earlier) on how to do a boost leak. Looking at that engine bay, you are going to have quite a few.

To test the calibration of the gauge. Just turn off the car. It should sit right at 0.
 
I'm still curious as to what turbo that is. Definatly not a 14b/16g/18g/20g mhi flanged. You can see it has that adapter in the pics. My guess is still a hahn 16g or 20g, but it could be a greddy 18g. As far as your blow off valve, looks like an rfl from your pics, but I can't see the whole thing. The problems with venting to the atmosphere are that the air was already metered, and that *some* bov's are open at idle (ie..the stock bov).
 
the bov has no outlet for the hose to connect too because it vents to the atmosphere... so should i just cap the old recirculation valve off my hks mas unit?

*bang head into wall* this is utterly confusing..



or..

should i just buy a stock 1g bov and hook up the hose.. all im losing is that bov woosh sound right?.. i could go w/out that.

1g BOV is certainly a good option if you can find one for a decent price. Post a pic of your BOV to help us see what it looks like. 1g BOV will hold all the boost that you'll be running for now. 2g guys "upgrade" to the 1g BOV because it holds boost better. You are correct in saying that all you will lose by recirculating is the "whoosh" sound. Way better to be sleeper in my opinion. What you will *gain* is a smoother running car.

Click here to see a good idea of what a 1g BOV looks like recirulated. Check out the rest of that page to get familiar with your engine bay.
 
the bov has no outlet for the hose to connect too because it vents to the atmosphere... so should i just cap the old recirculation valve off my hks mas unit?

*bang head into wall* this is utterly confusing..



or..

should i just buy a stock 1g bov and hook up the hose.. all im losing is that bov woosh sound right?.. i could go w/out that.

I'd buy a 1g bov and put it on there for now.

I have the 1g bov running 14psi, and you can still here the "wooosh".

if you want your car to run like it should then I would get that rag outa there and get that thing recirculated.


good luck.
-Adam
 
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I can't believe someone would upgrade to a Hahn Super 16G or Super 20G turbo without doing any mods to the intercooler, piping, or intake. Hell even the aircan isn't hacked! :tease:
 
I just bid on a 1g bov w/the jpipe flange and all that junk.

tomorrow im bringing the car into the shop to get the hood all fixed up... for now... just going to cut an old civic hood and tac it on there.


I REALLY love that view of the engine.. i've been looking for something like this for a real long time.. i really appriciate it lots.
 
its been confirmed that its a hahn super 20g turbo w/ a mitsu to t3 adapter plate.


when the car is off.. the vaccume/boost gauge goes to 0


Anyone have a 1g bov and 1g timing belt cover for sale?
 
its been confirmed that its a hahn super 20g turbo w/ a mitsu to t3 adapter plate.


when the car is off.. the vaccume/boost gauge goes to 0


Anyone have a 1g bov and 1g timing belt cover for sale?

I could ###### find you a bov. I'm not sure about the timing cover. I'll talk to my friends and see what I can do.


-Adam.
 
Check these out:

Here

Here

Here

Here

and Here


Note: I can't remember if there's any difference between 1g and 2g covers. Look into it. Only spend the big bucks on the clear one if you eventually want to show off adjustable cam gears.

Also, find the nearest Mitsubishi dealership that has a parts department. TRUST ME, they can be very helpful and still have tons of 1g parts available. In a lot of cases the dealer parts are cheaper than any of the aftermarket places.
 
the mitsu dealer out here has a parts department thats junk.. they said they cannot help me because the car is discontiuned. it was like some 18 y/o punk who didnt know what he was doing.

its alright though.. i'll find another dealer off cape.


thank you for the links :) I <3 you srsly!
 
i've come to the realization that this car is going to require more work then i can handle...

i think im going to sell it
 
I have no one in my general area who knows about DSM cars like yall do here.

I've never worked on a turbo car before.. 1st time i owned one.

Im just overwhelmed at all the things i've looked up.


this morning the battery died.. the person i had help me install the new orings onto the p/s pump did it incorrectly... so p/s fluid leaked directly onto the alternator.. u guys warned me.. i thought i took care of it..but the guy i had help me *family friend who used to be a mechanic *i know why he USED to be one* farked it up.

if i had someone in my area i could sit down and talk with..that would really help me out a lot.. im just a little scared if u know what i mean.. Im coming from a 1992 honda del sol that ran and ran and ran w/no problems.. n/a seems like its easier to work on.


i guess im just freakin out.. the car is in the shop for an alternator + p/s pump + labor + installing new crap..
ordered timing belt cover..

looking for 1g bov + pipe.

Im really just freakin i think... But i do love this car already.. i really do.


Im ###### gonna keep it.. i've already invested the $$ + initial tuneup and alternator + whatever the new charges are gonna cost.

i made that post after my battery died.
:confused:
 
i've come to the realization that this car is going to require more work then i can handle...

i think im going to sell it

Welcome to the wonderful world of dsm ownership. There will be good days, there will be great days, and there will be days where you are kicking every part of the vehicle because it ain't workin. It's all worth it in the end. :thumb:
 
Calm down... take a deep breath and relax.

A lot of us here (especially me) started with absolutely no knowledge of these cars... hell, if we all knew what we were getting into when we got a DSM, then more then half of us wouldn't have gotten one. Best advice... read, read, read and post questions. Once you understand a little bit more about how things work, you'll be able to better diagnose problems.

Also, (it looks like you just learned this lesson) make sure that you when you do have work done your car, that it's done by someone who knows a little bit about what they're doing, even if it's gonna be a little bit more expensive. The best way to be sure about this is to ask around your local area. Go into your regions forum and ask who's reputable and who other DSMr's use. And lastly, educate yourself a bit (again... read, read, read) so that when you talk to these mechanics 1) You'll know the difference between a dipshit and someone you can trust, and 2) You're less likely to get taken advantage of.

Get under your hood and tinker a bit. Your car reminds me alot of what mine was like when I first picked it up. The previous owner was a real dumbass and most everything was just slapped together... at one point, I felt like I had gotten taken. But, I got the car for a good price and I learned alot about these cars from the problems I had with it. Once you get the bugs worked out, you'll be in love with these cars all over again and probably wish you would've never wasted your time with a del sol for all those years. :)

If you don't like getting dirty or diagnosing problems... then maybe a DSM isn't for you. Only you'll be able to make that call though.

My $.02....
 
I am not scared to get dirty by any means.. my wrist isnt bent.

Im not afraid to diagnose problems.. As you can see from this thread.. i do like to ask questions.. i like to know what im getting myself into.


I've been contacted on BSDSM.com *baystate dsm* a link i got from the NE region of this webpage.. someone who lives 30 miles away... that is going to help me a lot.


most of the time i try to read for things myself.. i usually find the answers.. but besides forums.. its harder for me to track down dsm issues.. + im not great @ searching the interweb for how-to pages.


Does this forum have an mIRC chat room? if not.. i can make one.. im very good @ that kind of stuff.
 
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