Destroyed Valves???

[bryanwheat]

So what if I decided to not use an oil cooler for a while? Or an external oil cooler???

You would just block it off.

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hey guys quick question! Would my 7 bolt starter plate bolt to my 6 bolt block? Or will I need to buy a 6 bolt starter plate???

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hey guys quick question! Would my 7 bolt starter plate bolt to my 6 bolt block? Or will I need to buy a 6 bolt starter plate???

 

[bryanwheat]

Hey guys quick question! Would my 7 bolt starter plate bolt to my 6 bolt block? Or will I need to buy a 6 bolt starter plate???

IT will bolt to and block 90-99, you just need to make sure that it is the right one for the transmission. If it came from that transmission originally than you are good to go.

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hey guys! Wondering what these 3 hoses are for?? Are they needed?? If so, what do they connect to???

This one leads to towards the steering column!

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And these 2 lead into the firewall!

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[MHuddy1213]

the bottom pic im sure goes to your heater core i would have to look at see wht the top pic goes to

 

[NHerron]

First picture is for the brake booster, it attaches to the back of the intake manifold. ...Unless you have some killer buns and thighs I would recommend keeping the additional braking assistance hooked up

Like MHuddy said, the hoses lead to the heater core in the car, keep them hooked up. One hose goes to the water pipe (slips on the end of the smaller pipe) and the other hose goes to thermostat housing. You'll see where they go once the engine is back in



By the way. I can't tell but if you have any rust spots on the crossmember, now would be the easiest time to take care of them. Purple power degreaser works great with any builtup grease. I used some heavy sandpaper and sanded each rust spot until the rust was gone, then covered everywhere else with shop towels and coated the exposed spot with some self etching primer. Expensive stuff but it does a good job sticking. Then you could coat it with whatever paint afterwards

Just thought I'd mention it, I just got done with exactly what you're doing about a month ago

 

[dsm-junkie]

the bottom pic im sure goes to your heater core i would have to look at see wht the top pic goes to

Thanks a lot!

First picture is for the brake booster, it attaches to the back of the intake manifold. ...Unless you have some killer buns and thighs I would recommend keeping the additional braking assistance hooked up

Like MHuddy said, the hoses lead to the heater core in the car, keep them hooked up. One hose goes to the water pipe (slips on the end of the smaller pipe) and the other hose goes to thermostat housing. You'll see where they go once the engine is back in



By the way. I can't tell but if you have any rust spots on the crossmember, now would be the easiest time to take care of them. Purple power degreaser works great with any builtup grease. I used some heavy sandpaper and sanded each rust spot until the rust was gone, then covered everywhere else with shop towels and coated the exposed spot with some self etching primer. Expensive stuff but it does a good job sticking. Then you could coat it with whatever paint afterwards

Just thought I'd mention it, I just got done with exactly what you're doing about a month ago

Thanks bud! I'd like to keep my heater! I can't stand being cold!....I'll definitely take a look at my crossmember tomorrow! I wish I could of done a better job of cleaning out my firewall, but maybe next build!.....I'm just praying that it starts up sunday!

Hey guys! I just got a second look at my intake manifold and my MDP sensor is pretty much broken! I know that this sensor is just for measuring for the EGR system! Is it a must to replace or can I get away with the broken one?? I am using an egr block off plate!

 

[NHerron]

It would set an emissions code I forget which one...
You can get them cheap from classifieds though

 

[dsm-junkie]

It would set an emissions code I forget which one...
You can get them cheap from classifieds though

Great! I'm just gonna purchase one from someone in the classified section!

 

[NHerron]

Come to remember it would set the P1400 code

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hhhh

 

[NHerron]

Yup! That's normal, a 6bolt swapped 2G will have one less bolt on the bellhousing. I just used a nut and a bolt to keep the starter plate up against the bellhousing but I doubt it's needed. Also, there is a bolt closest to the firewall that threads into the transmission bellhousing that comes in from the drivers side. Kinda hard to explain but it's important don't forget it.

Jump to 13:00 in this video to see what bolt I'm talking about
Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission - YouTube

I don't see a lower timing cover! tsk-tsk
Maybe this guy will come up with a nice timing cover for the 6 bolt swapped people. There's also some creative ideas on incorporating a 1G timing cover with the 2G mount
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/438781-composite-timing-cover.html

 

[WES_393]

In a dohc 4g63 head, with cams, rockers, and lifters installed, all 16 valves are never closed at the same time.

Correct, but that's because of the cam profile. There is never a point on the cams where none of the lobes are putting pressure on the springs. So like I said:

Valves should be air tight until the lobes hit them. Otherwise you would have no compression.

All 16 valves sitting open with the cams installed is not right. But yes, you will never get them all to close. The op had almost all of them open, and it was stated that it's normal. Which it isn't.

DSMJunkie- Looking good! Glad to see some progress!

 

[dsm-junkie]

Yup! That's normal, a 6bolt swapped 2G will have one less bolt on the bellhousing. I just used a nut and a bolt to keep the starter plate up against the bellhousing but I doubt it's needed. Also, there is a bolt closest to the firewall that threads into the transmission bellhousing that comes in from the drivers side. Kinda hard to explain but it's important don't forget it.

Jump to 13:00 in this video to see what bolt I'm talking about
Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission - YouTube

I don't see a lower timing cover! tsk-tsk

Nice!! Jafromobile!! Great vids!! Now Im a little confused with my clutch fork assembly! I know that the fork needs to be positioned all the way towards the driver side! My fork moves freely right now and my clutch slave is fully extended! Which is pushing my fork position all the way to the passenger side of the car! My clutch slave is full of air and has no fluid in it right now! Just wanted to be sure! Will my slave allow my fork to be on the driver side once I bleed the clutch???


If you look really close you will see my lower timing cover! I just trimmed it down a bit because it looked hideous with a big chunk missing!! I just made it look a little better!

Correct, but that's because of the cam profile. There is never a point on the cams where none of the lobes are putting pressure on the springs. So like I said:


All 16 valves sitting open with the cams installed is not right. But yes, you will never get them all to close. The op had almost all of them open, and it was stated that it's normal. Which it isn't.

DSMJunkie- Looking good! Glad to see some progress!

Thank you sir!! I am trying to get this thing rolling!!!

 

[NHerron]

Take a quick look at this link and in the picture at the very bottom, where does your fork sit as of now?
TRE TECH TIPS

 

[dsm-junkie]

Take a quick look at this link and in the picture at the very bottom, where does your fork sit as of now?
TRE TECH TIPS

Well it depends! When the clutch slave isn't there It sits wherever I place it! When I install the clutch slave it will push it pretty close if not past the halfway mark because the slave is fully extended! When I bleed the clutch will the slave retract a bit??? I hope I don't have to shim it!! I think I might have to though

 

[NHerron]

No the slave has nothing to do with what you're checking (as long as clutch pedal isn't pressed). You're seeing where the clutch fork stops at which is limited by the TOB being pressed up to the PP. If you can move the fork with your hand PAST the halfway mark (passenger side of halfway mark) then something is out of spec or the pivot ball needs be shimmed

What is all being reused?

Things to cause:
Flywheel step
Worn PP (bent fingers, worn surface)
Worn disc
Worn fork (fork end, bent, worn socket)
Worn ball
If everything there is in spec then it would need be shimmed


There are a few variables which could be out of spec and that is covered in this link
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[dsm-junkie]

No the slave has nothing to do with what you're checking (as long as clutch pedal isn't pressed). You're seeing where the clutch fork stops at which is limited by the TOB being pressed up to the PP. If you can move the fork with your hand PAST the halfway mark (passenger side of halfway mark) then something is out of spec or the pivot ball needs be shimmed

What is all being reused?

Things to cause:
Flywheel step
Worn PP
Worn disc
Worn fork
Worn ball
If everything there is in spec then it would need be shimmed


There are a few variables which could be out of spec and that is covered in this link
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Basically I have a fidanza 8 lb flywheel with less than 200 miles (not resurfaced) I have a brand new PP and disk I am reusing my same fork and ball that worked just fine before I started the rebuild! Here is a video that I just made of my fork movement!


Clutch fork - YouTube

 

[NHerron]

Well according to the Fidanza's website, the step is set as per factory specs

9. WHAT STEP HEIGHT IS MY NEW FIDANZA FLYWHEEL MADE WITH? – We design our flywheels using the factory step height. The only exception would be custom units or those intended for multi disc clutches.

FAQ

200 miles shouldn't change the step so your FW, disc, and PP should all be fine. So now all that's left is the fork/ball. How many miles are on them? Did you notice if they were shiny upon reassembly?

 

[dsm-junkie]

Well according to the Fidanza's website, the step is set as per factory specs



FAQ

200 miles shouldn't change the step so your FW, disc, and PP should all be fine. So now all that's left is the fork/ball. How many miles are on them? Did you notice if they were shiny upon reassembly?

Yes both pivot ball and pivot point on the fork were both shiny! I couldn't tell you the exact milage! I am not using a custom unit or multi disk setup! So it should have the OEM set height correct?? Did you see the video?? How does it look???

 

[huafist]

Yes both pivot ball and pivot point on the fork were both shiny! I couldn't tell you the exact milage! I am not using a custom unit or multi disk setup! So it should have the OEM set height correct?? Did you see the video?? How does it look???

Something is massively wrong in there - you shouldn't be able to push the fork to the passenger side with your fingers. Is there any up/down play in the fork?

 

[dsm-junkie]

Something is massively wrong in there - you shouldn't be able to push the fork to the passenger side with your fingers. Is there any up/down play in the fork?

I don't think something is massively wrong! The clutch assembly looked fine! Plus its pretty much brand new! Everything was torqued to spec! There is no up and down play in the fork! The fork was intact (not broken) the pivot ball seemed fine! This fork and pivot ball worked fine before when my car was running! I'm guessing it just needs to be shimmed!

 

[dsm-junkie]

Alright guys I think I'm gonna just drop the tranny and shim the pivot ball and hopefully this solves my problem!!

 

[dsm-junkie]

Alright guys I think I'm gonna just drop the tranny and shim the pivot ball and hopefully this solves my problem!!