Critique my 4g64 build

[mechanix565]

so got my 20g on my car and its going good but I want some more power down low plus this motors got some miles on it so I want to try something a bit different. heres what im thinking

-99 Spyder 2.4 block w/ split thrust bearing
-Weisco 86.5mm 4g63 head 9.0.1 pistons
-Eagle H beam rods w. arp 2000 rod bolts (550 grams)
-FFWD Butcher 2.4 crank (-6lbs)
-STM BSE kit
-new OEM Oil Pump
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-ACT streetlite flywheel (-6lbs)
-ACT 2600 Clutch
-Unorthodox aluminum crank pulley (-2lbs)
(im hoping with a total of over 14lbs removed from the rotating assembly plus the removal of the balance shafts which is a fair amount in itself I should be able to create a 2.4l bottom end capable of supporting big power and revving to 8k) that's just my goal

-7 bolt head (gasket matched. Polished. valve job)
-BC valve springs
-Evo 8 3mm lifters
-Evo 8 Rockers
-Stainless +1mm Valves
-Skunk2 Adjustable cam gears
-Kiggly Oil pressure regulator

Jacks stage 2 5 speed w. welded center diff

cant decide on 272 or 280 cams. would I want the 280 cams due to the larger displacement im hoping between the lightened crankshaft, chromoly flywheel, and the h beams it should be able to rev 7500-8k safely I know its gonna max that turbo out but I can always get a 6262 later on no big just want a big displacement motor that still has top end power.

the turbo I have a TD05h 20g with a ported 8cm hotside w/ 34mm flapper which should support my goal of 400 awhp I think on a 2.4

 

[HIGHPSI4]

Yes, that setup and good tuning will get you the 400hp and then some. 272's or 280's will be fine on the 20G. If you are up grading the turbo I would just get the 280's.

 

[11Banger]

I'd stay away from H-Beams, if you have the cash going with I-beams

 

[WES_393]

Here's my updated version of your list. Changes and additions are in bold.

-Any DSM compatible 4g64
-Weisco or Manley 86.5mm 4g63 head 9.0.1 pistons
-Eagle H beam rods w. arp 2000 rod bolts (550 grams)
-Stock 4g64 crank, professionally reconditioned and balanced
-STM BSE kit
-new OEM Oil Pump
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-ACT streetlite or stock reconditioned flywheel
-South Bend SS/TZ (or greater) clutch
-Stock or Fluidampr harmonic balancer
-1g head and intake manifold
-BC valve springs
-Evo 8 3mm lifters
-Evo 8 Rockers
-Stock valves, have the head professionally reconditioned
-Skunk2 Adjustable cam gears
-Kiggly Oil pressure regulator

able to rev 7500-8k safely I know its gonna max that turbo out but I can always get a 6262 later on no big just want a big displacement motor that still has top end power.

A built 2.4 running a TD05H 20g is not going to have much top-end. Accidentally bouncing off the rev limiter won't be a problem, so why even set it that high. The PTE 6262 would be a good choice if you're looking for over 700hp and willing to pay more than the KBB value of your car. But for an easy 400hp+ with room to grow, I'd suggest a Holset HX35 in a T3 housing.

 

[phunny]

I like your build except for 2 things. The clutch and turbo, I'd go with an ACT 2900 or southbend and something larger than a 20g. You'll have no top end if you stick with it.

 

[UofACATS]

Lighter parts do not necessarily make it safer for higher RPMs, in some cases it's the opposite. I especially like these changes from the original list.

-Stock 4g64 crank, professionally reconditioned and balanced
-Stock or Fluidampr harmonic balancer

I would lean towards a nice set of 272's in lieu of the 280's, especially with the small turbo. Properly matching modifications is the key to a large, useable powerband

Regarding the 34mm flapper, are you really going to have an excessive boost problem? All my 16g buddies who cry about "boost drop off" have the flapper mod.

Never like that flapper mod.

 

[GPTourer]

All my 16g buddies who cry about "boost drop off" have the flapper mod.

Never like that flapper mod.

Yeah, that's what happened to me. I had it welded shut and went with an external.

 

[11Banger]

Lighter parts do not necessarily make it safer for higher RPMs, in some cases it's the opposite. I especially like these changes from the original list.



I would lean towards a nice set of 272's in lieu of the 280's, especially with the small turbo. Properly matching modifications is the key to a large, useable powerband

Well it depends on the cams also... Kelford 280's are different then lets say BC

 

[UofACATS]

Yeah that's absolutely true. Point stands however, match turbo with cam.

I think the little 20g on the 2.4L will make for an entertaining car, obviously street oriented. A nice, conservative cam will only make things better.

Shift at 6,500 though!

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

I also would recommend a clutch other than the 2600. My 2600 can't handle the instant torque hit of a small turbo and the 2.4. It will slip 1200-1500 rpms when it nears peak torque (around 3500 rpms) and then grab again and hold fine till redline.

 

[mechanix565]

you guys are awesome thanks for the input. i can get my hands on an hx40 with 12cm hotside for pretty cheap so i may go that way with the turbo (i can probably trade the 20g and get cash) also im thinking kelford 272's. as far as the clutch i said act 2600 opnly because i just bought one for the motor thats in my car now but i suppose i can just get something else before i swap it in. so add a t3 mani and a tial 38mm wastegate to the list also. you guys think the hx40 in a 12cm hotside is a good choic for the 2.4? its cost effective and moves a fair amount of air.

on another note why would i want a 1g head over a 2g head? doesnt the 2g head outflow the 1g? and why not the 1mm bigger valves wouldnt i want more air in and more air out on a bigger displacement motor seeing as how the head was designed to flow air for a 2.0 vs a 2.4?

so the amended list so far-
-7 bolt 4g64
-Weisco 86.5mm 4g63 head 9.0.1 pistons
-Eagle H beam rods w. arp 2000 rod bolts
-Stock 4g64 crank (micropolished) (saves me $600)
-STM BSE kit
-new OEM Oil Pump
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-ACT streetlite
-South Bend SS/TZ (or greater) clutch
-Stock harmonic balancer (saves me $100)
-2g head and intake manifold
-1g NA TB (maybe an s90)
-BC valve springs
-Evo 8 3mm lifters
-Evo 8 Rockers
-Stock valves/rebuilt head (saves me about $300)
-Skunk2 Adjustable cam gears
-Kiggly Oil pressure regulator
-Kelford 272's
-RVR/evo3 intamke manifold
-hx40 w. BEP Bolton housing
-38mm tial wastegate

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

As for which head to use?

I personally would use whichever one I had. If you have a 2g head use it. The debate about which head is better will never end or have a definitive answer. I think the general consensus is to use the 1g head for really high HP builds. Plus if you run a 2g head it opens the door to using the evo3 IM which is an amazing manifold for a street car.

I would also ditch the t3 manifold and the holset turbine housing. You can get a BEP bolt on housing, FP manifold and a external WG o2 housing for the price of a good T3 manifold. Not to mention the cost of fabbing up a o2 housing. The HX40 has been proven to make a ton of power with the BEP housing too.

 

[mechanix565]

ok well i already have a DNP exhaust manifold so i dont really need the fp cast so all i really need to do is sell my o2 dump and get the o2 hosuing with the wastegate provision or modify mine to use an external gate (cheaper and probably what i will do) already have the 7 bolt head and 7 bolt head studs so thats the route im gonna take i also already have te 7 bolt act flywheel so im trying to re use as much as i can to cut down on cost. im looking into a nice smim designed for an evo3 looks very nice but thats a down the road kinda deal. one more thing will a single aeromotive 340 lph fuel pump,-6an line, aeromotive fuel rail, aeromotive a1000 fpr and fic 1100cc injectors be a good enough fuel systtem to carry me over the 450-500hp mark? i initially only want 400 awhp but want room to grow.