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Crank Pully Question/Need Help

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spadepro22

15+ Year Contributor
1,206
14
Mar 13, 2008
Seneca, South Carolina
Well I'm having trouble tuning my car running into knock with a conservative tune. So I went to check timing and grounded through link and light on plug wire one and aimed at the pulley. The marks on the pulley doesn't stay set at any *, it just spends around slowly. I grounded through link and with pin to see if there was a difference and the same. What do you think? Seems to me if the pulley seperated it would'nt spend at all.
 
I ordered one, but will someone explain how it still turnsthe belt?

could be worn down to the point that its turning and slipping at the same time the real ? is how is it even running LOL if thats the case. ive seen key ways at work wear down really bad and slip and still work just really messed up.
 
^ this. Does a 1g have a trigger plate and crank sensor like 2gs? Im guessing it is running like piss. You def need to check it out. Pop your harmonic balancer off and take a peak at the keyway
 
^ this. Does a 1g have a trigger plate and crank sensor like 2gs? Im guessing it is running like piss. You def need to check it out. Pop your harmonic balancer off and take a peak at the keyway

i think only 2g have the crank sensor the 1gs run off the cas. i have a 2g eclipse and 2g block with 1g head and i run a signal wire off the cas to the crank pos. sensor plug ecu side to make it think its running it still.
 
For the Harmonic Balancer Pulley:

Common for the rubber that holds the outer pulley onto the inner section has weakened and dried out and the outer section is beginning to slip over the inner section you causing erroneous timing readings. If you get the cam marks all aligned up, the dowel pin on the crank sprocket that locks down the HB to the sprocket should be close to the 3:00 position. This gets you to the TDC.

7 bolt motors uses the trigger plate mounted behind the BS pulley. 6 bolts used the CAS. 1G's were up to 1994. 2G's began in 1995 til 1999.

We don't count 3 and 4G simply they're not DSM's but MMMA built vehicles.
 
Keep the inner. It's good to wrap a chain wrench around to lock the crank shaft down when tightening down that center bolt to torque specs.

Too much work. You can tighten the center bolt with the wheels on the ground. Just put the car in gear and put the ebrake on. Car isn't go anywhere and neither is the crank. Loose...that's another story and you've had to turn the crank counterclockwise.
 
Could you tell it was faulty before you pulled it off? I think mine is bad, but I don't see any wear.

It's was squeaking and I was also in the process of checking timing. The readings where all over the place with the car grounded so I got someone to start the car while I was looking at it and the dam thing look like it was coming right at me. I'd do what DSM1G90 said or what I did to be sure.

Too much work. You can tighten the center bolt with the wheels on the ground. Just put the car in gear and put the ebrake on. Car isn't go anywhere and neither is the crank. Loose...that's another story and you've had to turn the crank counterclockwise.

Question, the center bolt doesn't have to come off, just the 4 bolts around the balancer. Or are we talking about something else here?
 
It's was squeaking and I was also in the process of checking timing. The readings where all over the place with the car grounded so I got someone to start the car while I was looking at it and the dam thing look like it was coming right at me. I'd do what DSM1G90 said or what I did to be sure.



Question, the center bolt doesn't have to come off, just the 4 bolts around the balancer. Or are we talking about something else here?

Thanks man, I'm gonna check it tomorrow.

And I think they are talking about instances when you do need to work with the center bolt, not relating to the harmonic balancer. The inner part will hold the crank still while you torque on the center bolt.
 
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