1G Crank, no start but wants to start really badly [SOLVED]

[Ludejim]

Hello,
I haven't posted on the forums for something like 9 years. I just started getting back into the scene again. I drove the car at least once or twice a month and kept the battery on a tender to make sure when I did want to drive, I could.
I have been having a lot of fun and recently wanted to get my tune more dialed in. Ive been trying to track down an idle surge issue which led me to checking out my spark plugs.

I took the wires off, pulled the plugs making sure to keep them in order of which cylinder they came out of. There was nothing sure obviously wrong with them, so I put them back in and used the numbers on my wires to connect them back to the proper plug suing this guide here: Plug Wire Order

Before trying to start the car, I took a look at the alternator system and realized that when I had initially build the car (~10 years ago) I only grounded the alternator to the frame instead of straight to the battery. I took it upon my self to make a new 8ga wire with proper ring terminals and ran the new line from the alternator casing straight to the battery. At some point during this, that cable tapped the positive lead on the battery. Small spark, didn't think much of it.

I then proceeded to try and start the car thinking that I may have just solved some voltage drop issues, to my dismay, the car wont start. It has a really healthy turn over and even seems to ramp up a little, but the stall immediately.

Things I have checked:

• Every engine bay fuse (that I could find about 5 times), maybe there is one I missed??
• Every interior fuse (about 3 times)
• The order of the plug wires
• Reverting the alternator back to being grounded to the frame.

I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator and it is showing pressure when cranking. I also when I took the plugs out, they smelled like gasoline, I let them sit out in open air to dry. My point is, gas is getting into the cylinder. ECMLink shows InjOn working during crank as well.
I pulled #4 plug again and it sure as hell sparks, I could feel it pretty good
I am still breathing so there is air in the room.

Fuel, Spark, Air.... it seems to all be there. It honestly feels like something electrical it stopping the car after it turns over.
I have attached a very small ECMLink log of when I try and start it. The fact that I can connect to the ECU and I don't have a bunch of weird negative numbers, I think my ECU is ok (ECMLink no start guide)
Here is a link to a video of me trying to start the car: Car wont start video

1993 1GB Eagle Talon

I've broken my car! Please help!!!!

Regards,
James

 

[motomattx]

Have you checked that ALL plugs have spark?

 

[Ludejim]

Have you checked that ALL plugs have spark?

I just went out and pulled each plug and checked for spark. All 4 plugs are producing spark.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Pull the injectors, & home test them w some gator clips and cleaner. Pull Fuel filter & blow thru it. How long till you get to oem pressure.

 

[Ludejim]

Pull the injectors, & home test them w some gator clips and cleaner. Pull Fuel filter & blow thru it. How long till you get to oem pressure.

Getting to OEM fuel pressure happens near instantaneous. I do not think that I have a fuel blockage. The car was running an hour before I pulled the plugs...

 

[pieceofcloth]

Can you post a picture of your SPWires connected?

 

[Ludejim]

Can you post a picture of your SPWires connected?

Sure no problem.

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[pieceofcloth]

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[Vegas Smith]

-28 vacuum is quite a large amount to be pulling when the engine isn't even running.................check the map sensor......

 

[Ludejim]

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I followed the 2.0L setup. Unless I’m missing something...

 

[Ludejim]

-28 vacuum is quite a large amount to be pulling when the engine isn't even running.................check the map sensor......

Good eye @Vegas Smith. From my tiny log you nailed it. I had a buddy come over to help and we figured it out. A simple continuity test between the three wires coming from my ECMLink cable harness to my MAP sensor revealed that the positive lead was disconnected somewhere along the wire run. It turns out that when I was running the new alternator ground wire I must have moved the wiring harness for the MAP and IAT sensors pulling the positive lead out of its pin connector. Some solder and a few minutes later, me and my buddy had the car running! Thank you for taking the time to look at my log.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Good eye @Vegas Smith. From my tiny log you nailed it. I had a buddy come over to help and we figured it out. A simple continuity test between the three wires coming from my ECMLink cable harness to my MAP sensor revealed that the positive lead was disconnected somewhere along the wire run. It turns out that when I was running the new alternator ground wire I must have moved the wiring harness for the MAP and IAT sensors pulling the positive lead out of its pin connector. Some solder and a few minutes later, me and my buddy had the car running! Thank you for taking the time to look at my log.

Fo sho my bro.

That's why I always ask for a log. Instead of asking a million questions over 3 days I can usually find the issue in like 2 minutes.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Don't break your arm Nick...…..