2G Coolant in oil, low compression

[Dakota Biddinger]

So the first time I started my talon tsi it ran, then I checked the oil and it was full of coolant. I do a compression test and the 4 and 3 cylinders have results of 150, while the 2 and 1 cylinders have results of 75. I just took my head off and the gasket definitely doesn't look nice, but I can't seem to notice any cracks or anything. Just wanting to know if it is my head gasket before I tighten the head back on with a new gasket

 

[pauleyman]

You already have a thread on this. Please continue that one.

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

You already have a thread on this. Please continue that one.

I'm just trying to see if it's most likely the head gasket since I'm about to tighten my head bolts

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

You already have a thread on this. Please continue that one.

All the valves were straight, I cleaned off the top of the engine block and the cylinder head, and everything looked okay

 

[pauleyman]

you would at least need to check the surfaces for flatness. Please tell me you're not using an MLS gasket.

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

you would at least need to check the surfaces for flatness. Please tell me you're not using an MLS gasket.

I'm using an oem gasket. And I did check the block and it was all level

 

[pauleyman]

You have to check the head also

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

You have to check the head also

I'll do that real quick

 

[pauleyman]

Well....since we've decided to just continue this thread instead of the already open one.....
How are you checking?
What head bolts/studs are you using? What is your method to tighten? What motor is this? 6 bolt? 7 bolt? etc.

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

Well....since we've decided to just continue this thread instead of the already open one.....
How are you checking?
What head bolts/studs are you using? What is your method to tighten? What motor is this? 6 bolt? 7 bolt? etc.

Checking with a flat edge, stock head bolts, torque wrench, 7 bolt

 

[pauleyman]

What kind of straight edge? Feeler gauges? What torque? 7 bolt uses torque to yield. Do you have the proper steps?

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

What kind of straight edge? Feeler gauges? What torque? 7 bolt uses torque to yield. Do you have the proper steps?

I used a level, with a flat metal edge, tighten to 58 foot pounds, loosen completely, tighten to 15 pounds, tighten a quarter turn, then another quarter turn, all in the tightening sequence

 

[pauleyman]

A level is not a flat edge. You need a machinist flat edge and feeler gauges

 

[pauleyman]

And if you didn't check bolt stretch you need to. If these are original bolts you need new ones.

 

[smbgsx]

You've gotten some good feedback so far. Id buy new studs just because the head is off anyway, and it's only like 100 bucks for some ARP studs.
If you've used the flat edge/machinist's straight edge on the head and block deck properly. Which is in multiple places across the surface (up, down, side-to-side, and diagonally). Then I would think the next step may be to pressure check your cooling system. I could be wrong, but maybe a leak in the water jacket into the crankcase or oil gallery is possible. Though I don't think it's common with the iron block we use in these cars, and your problem is probably much simpler than that scenario. It also wouldn't explain the low compression in only 2 cylinders. I would focus my efforts in those areas when checking for surface distortion.

 

[smbgsx]

Maybe doing a leak down test before pulling the head would have been a good idea too. Sounds like.you know it was the gasket causing the low compression but you could have checked the condition of the rings and ruled out the valves in a more accurate way than a visual diagnosis.

 

[chrysler kid]

I'm going to double check your work, are you sure you have the coolant lines on the engine all connected and routed correctly?

Are you warming the car up with the cap off and heater on to burp the system of any air?

I highly suggest ARP studs. Takes all of the guess work out of the job of torquing the head down.

Are you positive you didn't route one of the coolant lines off of the heater pipe onto the intake manifold at the off valve or to a vacuum point?

I also suggest a coating of copper gasket spray to the head gasket to help it "stick" to the head. It can be difficult to line up the head to the bolts with one person, with the intake manifold bolted on, without really gouging the head gasket if the head moves. Again this is where the head studs make life easier

Torque to yield is a stupid process. You're assuming that the bolts stretch evenly the first pass across the head. Well the first pass is taking the torque and compressing the gasket material changing nothing and really only adds in another variable. If I'm being picky it's two passed torqued to make sure the bolts that stretch, actually stretch.

Coolant diagram

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Before you pull the head again you can do a coolant system pressure test with the spark plugs removed. You can also use a micro camera into the cylinder when you pressurized the system to see where it's leaking from


My $.02 is that your friend screwed you with that motor. You need to pull that engine back out and re do and re check everything.

I'm going to be specific on how bad aluminum can get when it's exposed to oxygen and too much heat, it can literally almost calcify in the head and in the turbo. That cylinder head could have blocked coolant passages In it preventing flow and bursting the gasket

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[Dakota Biddinger]

A level is not a flat edge. You need a machinist flat edge and feeler gauges

I'm going to double check your work, are you sure you have the coolant lines on the engine all connected and routed correctly?

Are you warming the car up with the cap off and heater on to burp the system of any air?

I highly suggest ARP studs. Takes all of the guess work out of the job of torquing the head down.

Are you positive you didn't route one of the coolant lines off of the heater pipe onto the intake manifold at the off valve or to a vacuum point?

I also suggest a coating of copper gasket spray to the head gasket to help it "stick" to the head. It can be difficult to line up the head to the bolts with one person, with the intake manifold bolted on, without really gouging the head gasket if the head moves. Again this is where the head studs make life easier

Torque to yield is a stupid process. You're assuming that the bolts stretch evenly the first pass across the head. Well the first pass is taking the torque and compressing the gasket material changing nothing and really only adds in another variable. If I'm being picky it's two passed torqued to make sure the bolts that stretch, actually stretch.

Coolant diagram

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Before you pull the head again you can do a coolant system pressure test with the spark plugs removed. You can also use a micro camera into the cylinder when you pressurized the system to see where it's leaking from


My $.02 is that your friend screwed you with that motor. You need to pull that engine back out and re do and re check everything.

I'm going to be specific on how bad aluminum can get when it's exposed to oxygen and too much heat, it can literally almost calcify in the head and in the turbo. That cylinder head could have blocked coolant passages In it preventing flow and bursting the gasket

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I haven't even driven the car yet. I've been working on it for that long and right when I think it's all good I find out I need something else. The head gasket did have some gouges in it when I took it off, but the valves looked good and everything else did. I have another head sitting in my garage too. The coolant passages looked nice and clean. And I'm 99.9% sure I've hooked up all the coolant lines and oil lines correctly. I'm not a mechanic and I'm only a senior in high school so I'm not a pro at all . But I'm sure I've done everything right. I've researched as I go and have a Chilton book nearby. I'll post a pic of the engine block and you can see that the coolant passages are clear. I didn't see anything inside them either

 

[smbgsx]

I'm no pro either, I've had to learn as I go and it seems like you're doing pretty good. You said you've never driven the car. So was there coolant in the oil when you got it?

 

[Eclipsedriver1981]

id recommend some arp head studs also..you don't wanna torque and loosen stock bolts multiple times

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

I haven't even driven the car yet. I've been working on it for that long and right when I think it's all good I find out I need something else. The head gasket did have some gouges in it when I took it off, but the valves looked good and everything else did. I have another head sitting in my garage too. The coolant passages looked nice and clean. And I'm 99.9% sure I've hooked up all the coolant lines and oil lines correctly. I'm not a mechanic and I'm only a senior in high school so I'm not a pro at all . But I'm sure I've done everything right. I've researched as I go and have a Chilton book nearby. I'll post a pic of the engine block and you can see that the coolant passages are clear. I didn't see anything inside them either

Also I do everything in my driveway so I don't have like special tools to check specific things unfortunately.

I'm no pro either, I've had to learn as I go and it seems like you're doing pretty good. You said you've never driven the car. So was there coolant in the oil when you got it?

No I bought the car and the engine came with it out of the car. I put the engine in the car myself

 

[Dakota Biddinger]

id recommend some arp head studs also..you don't wanna torque and loosen stock bolts multiple times

I don't have $220 to spend on arp head studs so I was thinking I would just get head bolts. I forgot what brand

 

[chrysler kid]

Well let's get things straight first, that's a 6bolt block, not a 7 bolt.

Are you running a 2g head on the 1g block?

Are you running a 1g water pipe or a 2g water pipe.

Is the car in your signature the car you are working On?

For reference here is a picture of a 7bolt block that comes in the 2g eclipse. Notice the square ends on the block

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This is your block

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[Dakota Biddinger]

From what I know my engine came out of like a 94 7 bolt. The flywheel is connected by 7 bolts. The head hasn't been changed as far as I know and neither has the water pipe. The car in my profile is the one I'm working on too

 

[boostdawd]

Arp studs can be had for cheap. Less than 100 bucks. Might as well do it now and not worry about it when u increase boost.

Sounds like u don't have all the right tools to check for a proper working head. I would hate for u to go through all the work only to find out the head had a small crack.

That low of a compression may mean something. Have a machine shop check your cylinder head.