1G Control arm differences? Galant vs Eclipse

[91Bomb]

I'm looking for 1 new control arm and I found an oem but part is for Galants (MB573093). However some places do show this fitting Galants and 1g eclipse and others show they don't. Eclipse part is MB573095 and I seen a Galant thread saying they use them on their cars but the castor is 1 or more degrees different. So I don't know what to think and since I'm only replacing 1 side of car worried about compatibility. My car is FWD.

Btw can't find Moogs for these cars now and Raybestos only has driver sides available. I wouldn't mind replacing both sides but not seeing any options at all other than cheapo parts or oem from dealer at $500+ for pair. Can anyone recommend other good aftermarkets at reasonable price?

 

[motomattx]

If the balljoints are bad you can just buy replacements (Moog) and just rubuild essentially the arm.

 

[91Bomb]

The control arm is rusting through so definitely needs replacing but 3 yrs ago I put moog ball joints on them. So if I get a new oem control arm is it worth replacing ball joint with this older moog ball joint? I like the fact of the moog being greasable but not sure if swapping the 3 yr old part is worth it. Are Moogs superior to oem?

 

[mitsubishikid]

If they are real [ Meaning: not the re-boxed made in mexico or china moog parts] Then yes they are better, they should have the patented moog gusher bearing design.

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And if you bought them from an auto parts store, they usually have a lifetime warranty, but make sure you get the real moog ones when you trade them in, I had them order me 2 new sets for my new mirage, and what do ya know, 1 of the sets was a re-boxed part [non U.S.A made].

Also if you want I can get a used set of lower control arms theres a Plymouth laser in a local pull yard, out here [should be minimal rust being located out here in Cali] PM me if you want me to pull em for you, I'm heading out there again anyway for my mirage project.

 

[91Bomb]

You gave me a good idea of buying one from junkyard so I might go look at them and maybe I'll find an oem with no pitting on arm or other problems. Then, since my bushings + ball joints are only 3 yrs old I can go to autozone and borrow the tools to remove/install these. Is the same tool kit used for bushings + ball joints?

Are you supposed to lube control arm bushings (inside and out) before install? If so, is brake grease like syl-glide good and how much?

Other than removing end link, ball joint, and other 2 points on control arm, does anything else need to be removed to get control arm out? Does tie rod or other stuff need to come off?

 

[mitsubishikid]

To remove the lower control arm, you need to remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle,along with the sway bar end link, and then the lower control arm bushings brackets will need to be removed pretty much basic hand tools... well aside from the ball joint separator, I got a tool from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html so far it works pretty good for separating ball joints, but any equivalent tool will work I prefer this style to using the pickle forks.

 

[91Bomb]

Is it possible to remove ball joint from control arm without damaging ball joint while using a vice? Because I want to reuse this Moog that's only 3 yrs old and install in a junkyard control arm (assuming I find one in good shape).

Can you get away with just banging on the knuckle to get ball joint out of there?

 

[mitsubishikid]

[Ninja edit ] To answer your question, you can get away with using a rental ball joint vice, without damaging the ball joint, but obviously you should inspect the ball joint after it's removed from the control arm for any awkward motion in its normal range of travel before pressing it into the new arm.

And while Banging at it might work, I would err on the side of caution here it has a rubber boot on it you might damage something.

The best way I have found to remove ball joints or tie rods, with the least amount of damage, is to carefully use the harbor fright tool that I left a link for in my last post [or it's equivalent from an auto parts store etc], using pickle fork style tends to tear the boots, which is why I prefer/recommend using the screw apart style ball joint separators, they also make the job a lot easier.

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[91Bomb]

I also want to remove this bushing in pic and reuse it on junkyard control arm. Does it just slide right off or is there a lip there and going to make it difficult?

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[serviceguy]

It just slides. The front one will need pressing out.

 

[91Bomb]

That's good, so when I go to junkyard I'll check under that bushing and make sure it's not all pitted up like mine is.