Clutch wont release fully...

[Kalub]

I just got a new Competition stage 2 clutch installed and the mechanic said he thought the hydraulics were failing because he couldn't get it to release fully. So no big deal, I went and bought a new slave and master. I replaced them and bled them. And I still can't get the clutch to release the last little bit it needs. I've watched the jackstransmission videos and adjusted the master cylinder rod to get a full stroke, and I've tried to shim the slave cylinder with a washer to maybe get a little extra push out of it.

Anything else to try? And just to save a thread, will a noncruise cable from the 4G64 spyder work in our cars?

 

[dsm03]

You sure he lined it up correctly..

Adjust the pedal out a bit further to see if that helps..

 

[Kalub]

If I adjust the pedal out anymore I will block the breeder in the master cylinder. And no I'm not sure of his work. If anything I would think it would slip a little more than I expected. I had the flywheel surfaced.

 

[luv2rallye]

Probably have to shim the clutch fork pivot ball. Unfortuately you have to pull the tranny to do it

 

[ericemery]

I'm with luv2rallye.

Do you have the stock hard clutch line? Or maybe a braided line?

 

[Kalub]

I have the stock headline. It feels way stiff before it even touches the floor, I've heard that this is caused by the fork hitting the bellhousing, but I checked that and its not even close. I don't think its a broken fork, and I think the ball is just worn out. Wish I woulda just replaced them when the tranny was out. $490 saved.... On a $50 part

 

[Kalub]

Adjusted the master cylinder rod out as far as I could while still maintaining the breeder valve, and also backed the cruise switch out as far as it would go. Still nothing. I built a slave cylinder rod that was 1/4 - 3/8 inch longer and it shifts somewhat smoother but second still pops back out. Would you guys make the slave cylinder any longer?

 

[Lofty]

If your gears are popping out stop messing around with slave rods and adjustments. Something internal to the transmission is gone. Might as well pull it, Shim the pivot ball, buy a new clutch fork and throw out bearing, make sure the flywheel is the proper step height and, oh yeah find a new transmission/rebuild this one.

 

[Kalub]

Even if the gear pops out because it never fully went in because the clutch never disengaged? It's a fork or pivot ball issue I bet

 

[Lofty]

Well then yes, that is possible, but usually that doesn't really happen.

It will either go in, or it wont, and if it doesn't, you let the clutch out, and it will grind.



Either way, drop the trans, replace all that I listed.

I know, it sucks!

 

[my dreamt dsm]

My experience after all clutch items replace new... Do it over again. Somehow the install is wrong, don't be fooled. Their could be many things wrong. Check my thread, same problem, I redid the whole job myself and for some STUPID reason it worked. Remember extend rod is only a band aid.

 

[luv2rallye]

Always replace clutch fork and pivot ball when doing a clutch. The fork wears down right where the pivot ball contacts it which is why shimming the pivot ball works (it's usually not the pivot ball wearing but the fork). And put a dab of grease in that area too.
If the fork is already pivoting as far as it can go to be effective in the forward direction, no amount of rod lengthing will help.

 

[Kalub]

Well it'll be 6-13 months before I can work on it again. Back to storage while I'm in Korea.

 

[diablo1]

You should replace clutch fork and pivot ball

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Always replace clutch fork and pivot ball when doing a clutch. The fork wears down right where the pivot ball contacts it which is why shimming the pivot ball works (it's usually not the pivot ball wearing but the fork). And put a dab of grease in that area too.
If the fork is already pivoting as far as it can go to be effective in the forward direction, no amount of rod lengthing will help.

I totally agree.... And yes make sure to put some grease where the clutch fork pivots on the ball stud. This will help prolong the wear in this area to ensure you won't be doing it again too soon.