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Clutch Sound

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pressf1forhelp

5+ Year Contributor
32
3
Nov 24, 2017
Oceanside, California
Hey guys, I just got my head gasket replaced and on the way home I noticed a strange sound when I push the clutch in and only when I push the clutch in for shifting gears etc. I do know that they removed the whole engine because the cylinder head was warped and needed to go to the machine shop. When I push the clutch in, it gives me a skipping type of noise of like metal knocking or rubbing against another piece of medal. Almost like when brake rotors make contact with the calipers with no pads present. While cruising the sound is non existent. Seems to only make sound when I push the clutch in.

The car drives fine despite the sound though. I'm planning to take it back to the shop that reassembled the car but I wanted to see if anyone could tell me what would cause this. Is there a chance they messed up my clutch components when reconnecting the engine to the transmission? I've only put 20k miles on this clutch and the sound was not present until the car hit this shop. Any help would be great!
 
a bad throwout bearing will make noise when you push in the clutch. its hard to say without actually hearing it.
was a new one installed with the clutch? did they replace the pilot bushing/bearing?
 
First thing I would suspect is that they did not bleed the clutch hydraulic system, assuming they pulled the engine/tranny as a unit.
And as already suggested, it’s possible the TO bearing was not properly greased or seated right to the fork. Is it hard to shift now? You likely would have mentioned that, but it would normally go with a clutch that didn’t disengage fully (which could happen from air in the line). If it were me, I’d try to bleed and adjust it myself, and if that didn’t correct it, take it back to the mechanic for them to check out the TO bearing.
 
a bad throwout bearing will make noise when you push in the clutch. its hard to say without actually hearing it.
was a new one installed with the clutch? did they replace the pilot bushing/bearing?

I'm not sure on this one. Two mechanics, one being the original owner, owned the car before me. When I purchased the car, the guy told me that it did have a new clutch and flywheel installed along with some other major maintenance done. Unfortunately since these guys were working on the car themselves I have no paperwork what so ever on anything they did to the car. I just find it odd I never had any issues with noises in this said fashion before I got the car back from the shop. I bought the car at 173k miles and now have 195k miles.

First thing I would suspect is that they did not bleed the clutch hydraulic system, assuming they pulled the engine/tranny as a unit.
And as already suggested, it’s possible the TO bearing was not properly greased or seated right to the fork. Is it hard to shift now? You likely would have mentioned that, but it would normally go with a clutch that didn’t disengage fully (which could happen from air in the line). If it were me, I’d try to bleed and adjust it myself, and if that didn’t correct it, take it back to the mechanic for them to check out the TO bearing.

No shifting issues whatsoever. I would do it myself, but my neighbors are home and I live in an apartment home complex with car ports. So whenever they are home it's next to impossible to do any work on my car. I intend to take the car back when they open. I paid 3k and some change for the HG job to be done properly so I'm making damn sure I get my money out of it.

Did it make this sound before or anything similar?
Check and make sure all the trans bolts are present and tight.

No never one sound from the clutch pushed in or any strange noises while shifting.
 
Is it at all possible that the pressure plate diaphragm spring retracts too far and/or the step height is too great, giving the fully disengaged clutch disc enough room to move back and forth on the input shaft, alternately hitting the flywheel and pressure plate as it oscillates back and forth, perhaps also due to not being balanced?

I've actually wondered what happens to the clutch disc when it's properly disengaged and what keeps it from rubbing on either surface or bouncing between them. Is it inertial momentum, like with a bicycle wheel, or perhaps some aerodynamic effect?

Ironically, I recently also had a sound similar to this shortly after replacing my car's clutch and taking it out for the first few test rides, always after disengaging the clutch and braking at a stop. Kind of like the sound of a spinning disc on an axle slowly coming to a stop due to friction.

Now that noise has gone away, but there's a different, worse problem, in that I'm getting grinding when shifting. Not within the first few minutes of driving, but only after things have warmed up. The mechanic at the shop I took it to for inspection yesterday suspects that there's still some air in the clutch line than needs to be bled. Sounds about right, so I'll do just that this weekend.

I wonder whether the trapped air, or perhaps moisture, only manifests itself after warming up and expanding. It's in the 30's and 40's here normally this time of year.
 
What all was done and why?

As in? My original post states that the head gasket was replaced and the head went to the machine shop to fix the warping. If you are talking about the other large jobs done on the car, that was 20k ago and I've had no serious issues with the car since then. I mean a CEL here and there but easy jobs I did a while ago.

Is it at all possible that the pressure plate diaphragm spring retracts too far and/or the step height is too great, giving the fully disengaged clutch disc enough room to move back and forth on the input shaft, alternately hitting the flywheel and pressure plate as it oscillates back and forth, perhaps also due to not being balanced?

I've actually wondered what happens to the clutch disc when it's properly disengaged and what keeps it from rubbing on either surface or bouncing between them. Is it inertial momentum, like with a bicycle wheel, or perhaps some aerodynamic effect?

Ironically, I recently also had a sound similar to this shortly after replacing my car's clutch and taking it out for the first few test rides, always after disengaging the clutch and braking at a stop. Kind of like the sound of a spinning disc on an axle slowly coming to a stop due to friction.

Now that noise has gone away, but there's a different, worse problem, in that I'm getting grinding when shifting. Not within the first few minutes of driving, but only after things have warmed up. The mechanic at the shop I took it to for inspection yesterday suspects that there's still some air in the clutch line than needs to be bled. Sounds about right, so I'll do just that this weekend.

I wonder whether the trapped air, or perhaps moisture, only manifests itself after warming up and expanding. It's in the 30's and 40's here normally this time of year.

I think like you and others have posted, there's probably air in the line. I've had this car for the past 4 years. Bought it right when I moved to CA. Never had any seasonal issues with the car. I mean she may not be driven as much because my work schedule ect are short trip drives.
 
As in? My original post states that the head gasket was replaced and the head went to the machine shop to fix the warping. If you are talking about the other large jobs done on the car, that was 20k ago and I've had no serious issues with the car since then. I mean a CEL here and there but easy jobs I did a while ago.



I think like you and others have posted, there's probably air in the line. I've had this car for the past 4 years. Bought it right when I moved to CA. Never had any seasonal issues with the car. I mean she may not be driven as much because my work schedule ect are short trip drives.
Why did they remove the motor to do a head gasket? Thats why I said what was done.
My money is still on loose or missing trans bolts.
 
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