The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Clutch Selection

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mham2k

15+ Year Contributor
306
57
Feb 8, 2008
Dallas, Texas
I just purchased some eagle rods, je pistons, and a 6 bolt block to upgrade my 2g.

I will stick with my 20g for now but want to upgrade later to something that will get 600 or 700 hp.

What clutch would be good for a weekend warrior? I drive the car very hard twice a week now.

I think I need something that can handle 500-600tq, tranny is not built so don't want something that is to rough on my drive train.

Thoughts?

Sprung 6 puck?
Twin Disk?
Street disk with heavy pressure plate?
 
I would honestly go with something mild until you're ready to put down that 600-700. There aren't many clutches that will hold the torque you want, and most of them are pretty rough on the transmission.
 
I would honestly go with something mild until you're ready to put down that 600-700. There aren't many clutches that will hold the torque you want, and most of them are pretty rough on the transmission.

I don't want to buy and install clutches twice, I would rather build it so that I can drop the new manifold, turbo, and injectors in when i figure out which i want.
 
I'm running a SB clutch on my DD now but not at the power levels you're aiming for. Best clutch I've ever used BTW. Talk with Tim on the torque capacities of the different combinations so he can help you with the best option(s).
 
I had a 6 puck in my 2g that made 380ish tq and 407awhp. Ended up blowing up the trans after first time to drag strip with the clutch. It’s super aggressive and it’s a pia to drive imo. Went with a act 2900 and I did like that set up. Not sure what the 2900 can handle.
 
I just purchased some eagle rods, je pistons, and a 6 bolt block to upgrade my 2g.

I will stick with my 20g for now but want to upgrade later to something that will get 600 or 700 hp.

What clutch would be good for a weekend warrior? I drive the car very hard twice a week now.

I think I need something that can handle 500-600tq, tranny is not built so don't want something that is to rough on my drive train.

Thoughts?

Sprung 6 puck?
Twin Disk?
Street disk with heavy pressure plate?


I really like the act 2900 with a sprung 6 puck, extended slave cylinder rod and braided hardline! I used to have the 2100 and street disks. I did go through one 6 puck already a bit earlier then expected. But I believe it was due to improper adjustment and break in. It now has the new disk with extended slave rod and I love it! I hear good things bout southbend too but I prefer act. I don't think you would need a twin disk for a weekend warrior but maybe some others can chime in. I hear they are a real pain on the street but never tried one out!
 
I don't know how many times I have to say this. DO NOT EVER use an extended slave rod.. period.. you can not change the travel distance of your slave by putting a longer rod in it. What you are doing is bottoming out the slave piston in the bore and the extra length is already starting to push on the cover. You are preloading the release bearing and also lowering the clamping force of the cover.
 
Thanks sounds like it will be a South bend, they seem to be the only company that can hold power without a puck or twin disc.

I have heard that driving on a puck is terrible.
 
I don't know how many times I have to say this. DO NOT EVER use an extended slave rod.. period.. you can not change the travel distance of your slave by putting a longer rod in it. What you are doing is bottoming out the slave piston in the bore and the extra length is already starting to push on the cover. You are preloading the release bearing and also lowering the clamping force of the cover.

To each there own. My clutch feels alot better and didn't smell during breaking in like my old disk did. Extreme psi says it's a must with aftermarket clutches. Until I have a problem I will stick with my set up.
 
If you want to make 700hp and use it, you will have the trans out several times a year. Put a clutch in that matches your current goals.

I won't be using all of the power all of the time so it should be fine, if I have to drop the trans once or twice a year it will give me the opportunity to figure out what should be upgraded while i'm there.

My current goals are 600 - 700 hp so i'm going to get a clutch to match.
 
I won't be using all of the power all of the time so it should be fine, if I have to drop the trans once or twice a year it will give me the opportunity to figure out what should be upgraded while i'm there.

My current goals are 600 - 700 hp so i'm going to get a clutch to match.

That's not how it works. An unsprung, grabby clutch will take its toll on the driveline at low power or high power. It engages harshly when starting off in traffic, every time you slip or dump the clutch it will create those shocks. Those shocks ruin synchros and other internals.
 
That's not how it works. An unsprung, grabby clutch will take its toll on the driveline at low power or high power. It engages harshly when starting off in traffic, every time you slip or dump the clutch it will create those shocks. Those shocks ruin synchros and other internals.

Gotcha, even with a street clutch? I don't want anything unsprung or a puck.
 
Gotcha, even with a street clutch? I don't want anything unsprung or a puck.

A clutch that will hold 500-600 wtq will likely be ceramic, which isn't as friendly as organic discs for engagement, but it's going to be friendlier than the unsprung twins. I'd defer to TMZ's knowledge on this, but you would be fine with the top-rated South Bend all around. Maybe not the *best* experience on the street, but definitely liveable.
 
Basically if I sum up what y'all are saying, when I get to that horsepower range if I don't upgrade my trans and drivetrain I will have issues all the time.
 
Abuse is just as bad as high power - you could nuke a driveline at stock power if you're reckless enough. Doing aggressive 500+ tq launches on street tires will eventually trash a transfer case, and the DSM transmission is not a fan of torque at all. Drag racing, harsh shifts and aggressive clutch dumps will eventually break a well-built DSM transmission too, but I would bet that you would obliterate a stock 2g transmission within your first 20 highway pulls at that power. The 3/4 will fail first, since the 2g has notoriously weak parts there. Added heat from long, or back-to-back pulls just amplifies the weakness.
 
Last edited:
Abuse is just as bad as high power - you could nuke a driveline at stock power if you're reckless enough. Doing aggressive 500+ tq launches on street tires will eventually trash a transfer case, and the DSM transmission is not a fan of torque at all. Drag racing, harsh shifts and aggressive clutch dumps will eventually break a well-built DSM transmission too, but I would bet that you would obliterate a stock 2g transmission within your first 20 highway pulls at that power. The 3/4 will fail first, since the 2g has notoriously weak parts there. Added heat from long, or back-to-back pulls just amplifies the weakness.

Got it, so once I break a trans doing highway pulls I will upgrade it. Don't want a dogbox and Evo gears are hard to find so will figure out what to do then.

Will talk to TMZ and listen to the dudes that have given me great advice on this post. This is good stuff.
 
Was on a SBC but it let go after 505 torque. Southbends are very friendly on the street with a stockish pedal feel. I was running it in my 614/505tq car and just found the point it wouldn't hold.
Follow Tims recommendations. I would do a SBC again but get their highest rated pressure plate and still use a full face kevlar/ceramic disk.
 
OK, looks like South Bend has some good stuff. They claim streetability at 550 or 600tq.

Has anyone used those?
I have sold close to 1000 SBC clutches for DSM's over the last 10 years.

The best one for your application of power levels would be the SSX pressure plate with B-Series full face sprung hub ceramic disk. I would pair this with a Competition Clutch chromoly steel flywheel. No media blasting of the friction surface. OEM TOB, TOB clip, OEM flywheel bolts (22.5mm for 6 bolt, 21.2mm for 7 bolt applications). Check your clutch fork and pivot ball at the same time. If they need replacement, then i would simply suggest the Competition Clutch forged clutch fork which comes with a new pivot ball.
 
Here's a purdy picture of a full face sprung hub ceramic disk that Tim just had made for my car.
Ceramic on both sides.
This was a custom though, because it has a 1” x 23 spline hub for the PPG gearset input shaft.
From time of order, South Bend got this out the door in about 2 days, to UPS. Pretty fast for a custom.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Gary, it will take a couple hundred miles to break in of street driving because you are reusing your pressure plate, just clean up the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel and make sure they are flat. You will have a very fun car!

Good luck!!

TMZ
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top