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Clutch problems need help fast...

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187dsm

Proven Member
54
0
May 4, 2014
Palm beach, Florida
My car is stuck at my friends house.
When the car is on, I can't get it into any gears. When I start the car in gear, it jumps forward.
My buddy bled the line, looked at master cylinder he said it was good. He took off the slave because I had a replacement but he didn't see any problems with the old one. So we put the old one back on and now we are out of options. My car is still stuck. The clutch feels softer than usual and any help is appreciated
 
have you pushing the pedal and had a friend look at the window to make sure that the fork didn't break andis not disengaging the clutch
 
have you pushing the pedal and had a friend look at the window to make sure that the fork didn't break andis not disengaging the clutch

This is how it looks with the clutch pressed down. It hits a part of the tranny if u look close

.....
 

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Haven't really done anything to it since I bought it. On a tight budget or else it would be at the shop
 
You need a new clutch. Had same issue. Had to put it in gear before started. While it was running it is too hard to shift. And when I started the car while in gear it would jump the car forward as if I didn't have the clutch pedal all the way pressed.
 
Your clutch clearly isn't working. its basically petal assembly, master, slave, bleeding, then clutch since you should have checked off the others I would bet on it being the clutch, or flywheel not right, did it used to work fine with no noises or issues?
 
Your clutch clearly isn't working. its basically petal assembly, master, slave, bleeding, then clutch since you should have checked off the others I would bet on it being the clutch, or flywheel not right, did it used to work fine with no noises or issues?

Def. clutch. 110%
 
Thank you for the replies.

The guy I bought the car from told me it had a new clutch stage 4 6 puck with a lightweight flywheel. He said not even 1000 miles on it but he could've been lying.

So far you guys have told me clutch. And some say fork and pivot ball.

It used to work fine... But the day before it went, I noticed the clutch was soft at cold start. Engaged way sooner than usual. Then it got normal after 5-10 minutes. I thought I heard a whining noise but I'm not too sure.

So you guys think it's a clutch??
 
Try this test: start the car in neutral. engage the shifter like you're trying to push into 1st and keep pressure there but not so much you start grinding. Push the pedal down slowly. Report back with results.
 
Had the same issues two months ago, when the trans was pulled some clutch springs dropped out on the floor. Replaced the tob, fork, pivot ball and clutch... also found out I already had a lightweight flywheel from one of the 77 previous owners :thumb:

Get to work!

I went with the competition clutch 1620, sprung ceramic 6 puck. Has been awesome, put about 1200 miles on it already.The first 100 miles had a lot of chatter, which I read was normal. But now that I've passed 500 and 1000 miles it only chatters if I slip it out in first at a really low rpm (sub 1500-1700)

Edit:
Mine was also sold to me with a new clutch as well, an "almost new act street disc".... anyhow, the part numbers cross referenced back to an oreilly piece of hud. Lasted 15k at least for me, but still, it wasn't what I was told it was.
 
Try this test: start the car in neutral. engage the shifter like you're trying to push into 1st and keep pressure there but not so much you start grinding. Push the pedal down slowly. Report back with results.

Crimsondragon, I tried this a couple times today and it still won't go in gear.. Can I ask why you told me to try this?

Had the same issues two months ago, when the trans was pulled some clutch springs dropped out on the floor. Replaced the tob, fork, pivot ball and clutch... also found out I already had a lightweight flywheel from one of the 77 previous owners :thumb:

Get to work!

I went with the competition clutch 1620, sprung ceramic 6 puck. Has been awesome, put about 1200 miles on it already.The first 100 miles had a lot of chatter, which I read was normal. But now that I've passed 500 and 1000 miles it only chatters if I slip it out in first at a really low rpm (sub 1500-1700)

Edit:
Mine was also sold to me with a new clutch as well, an "almost new act street disc".... anyhow, the part numbers cross referenced back to an oreilly piece of hud. Lasted 15k at least for me, but still, it wasn't what I was told it was.

Thanks for the long reply...when I replace tob, fork and pivot ball, should I use oem? And what's the best place to get it? The guy told me I had a lightweight flywheel in there. I was reading up on the ACT 2100 with street disc. I mostly daily drive it. Rarely race. Would this be a good choice? I want to make sure everything is replaced while I'm in there.

A good majority of clutch issues are because of adjustment. Check and see if you can push in on the fork at all, if not adjustment is needed. The reason why your car is jumping is because the clutch is engaged when its not supposed to be. I'm with gofer on this one, check your adjustment.

The clutch was adjusted all the way out when I checked. Fork felt a little loose/wobbly


Thanks ! A lot of good info
 
It all depends on your goals. The steet disk would be fine for running around a 16g on a dd, its good around the 300tq mark. I went with the 6 puck because its rated at 450tq, although I have a b16g now, I have a holset big h1c sitting on the floor to put on and put this clutch through its paces. I figured if I was in there I may as well do it now, even though I'm a few parts away from the holset swap and it may be another couple months.

Like stated, check your adjustments first since its a matter of 20 minutes to set it up. Mine reponded in the early stages of going out to some adjustments and bleeding... then after about 10 days and 3 32oz bottles of brake fluid worth of bleeding and not going in to gear I gave up. Trans was pulled and the clutch springs were popped out.

I could go in to gear with the car off, couldn't with it turned on. And when I started the car with it in gear and the clutch pedal to the floor it would lunge forward. If I gave it enough room it would lunge forward enough to basically start in gear if I turned it over for a couple seconds, basically a bump start.

Edit: yes, go oem for all the parts, plenty of vendors to get oem parts on here. I also used an oem tob and left the tob that came with the clutch in the box.
 
Southbend clutch. Nice stock feel, but holds plenty of torque if you are rarely racing and mostly just daily driving. Easy on the hydraulics. Just a suggestion. TMZ sells them.
 
What's your upper pedal stop or cruise control cut-out switch look like?

Back it out to allow more travel up top, bleed your slave a few, ten 20 times more, and see if that upper control stop allows for more master cyl. rod adjustment.

puck style clutches have a very narrow engagement window.

You should also look at where your clutch fork sits in the window without pressing in the clutch.

It should be closer to the drivers side of center. See below:

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Crimsondragon, I tried this a couple times today and it still won't go in gear.. Can I ask why you told me to try this?



Thanks for the long reply...when I replace tob, fork and pivot ball, should I use oem? And what's the best place to get it? The guy told me I had a lightweight flywheel in there. I was reading up on the ACT 2100 with street disc. I mostly daily drive it. Rarely race. Would this be a good choice? I want to make sure everything is replaced while I'm in there.



The clutch was adjusted all the way out when I checked. Fork felt a little loose/wobbly



Thanks ! A lot of good info
If you got too much throw you can actually go through the disengagement window and re-engage the clutchas you're pushing the clutch down. Since it didn't disengage at all, it's either a hydraulic issue or failed part. One last thing to checK: Inspect very closely and carefully all the bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine, especially the M8 by the firewall down low. That's the most missed one. Verify that the bellhousing doesn't have any cracks either. If it all checks out good, pull the transmission.
 
I was just told by previous owner clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinders have less than 600 miles on it. Well, 700 since I put 100 miles on it.

Monday I plan on taking it to the shop where all the work was done. I don't know what else to do. The shop is about 40 miles from my house!
 
I was just told by previous owner clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinders have less than 600 miles on it. Well, 700 since I put 100 miles on it.

Monday I plan on taking it to the shop where all the work was done. I don't know what else to do. The shop is about 40 miles from my house!

Check your clutch fork position!!! You may have to put a washer behind your piviot ball. Post a pic of where it sits at rest. I have a stock flywheel never resurfaced and when I installed a new OEM clutch I had to shim the piviot ball even though it work perfect with the old clutch.
 
Check your clutch fork position!!! You may have to put a washer behind your piviot ball. Post a pic of where it sits at rest. I have a stock flywheel never resurfaced and when I installed a new OEM clutch I had to shim the piviot ball even though it work perfect with the old clutch.

My car is at a friends house. Tomorrow I will post a pic asap. Thank you
 
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