clutch not disengaging please help

[speedmethod]

Good to hear its been resolved. The proper way to handle this, dont buy ACT. I could write a novel about my experiences with them. I am SPEC only now, I also sell SPEC with nothing less than stellar results.

ACT

SPEC

Brandon

 

[nick97gst]

to weeks isn't so bad my 95 talon TSI has been down for altogether about a year with this stupid clutch problem. I don't know what to do now we installed a ACT 2100 clutch kit and it never really worked right, there was barely any pedal to it and then it just stopped going in gear at all and i thought master cylinder or slave but the rod is pushing the fork all the way to the outside of the square hole the fork goes through and so doesn't allow me to put it in gear yet i also thought maybe the fork bent or something so we pulled the tranny back out and it doesn't look bent. Bye the way anybody know were to find a fork.. please let me know in desperate need of help. THANKS!!!

 

[sweet97]

Will it go into gear with the engine off? I found a fix for mine but yours seems to be a different problem. Mark

 

[nick97gst]

yeah, if you start it in gear, you can go through the gears if you don't have to stop

 

[sweet97]

Nick, on mine EVERYTHING was new including the TRE spec tranny. We ended up welding 2 extra nuts onto the "C"shaped block the rod from the master cylinder threads into for adjustment as we were on the last thread and the clutch would engage IMMEDIATLY upon moving it from the floor. Used an old rod to line the nuts with the hole in the "C" block so we added a 1/2"extra adjustment and it worked! Mark

 

[nick97gst]

i still don't understand why it pushes the fork all the way to the outside of the opening and it still doesn't ingage the clutch unless you still think that would work

 

[sweet97]

I just let you know what worked for me. Don't understand either unless your pressure plate fingers are messed up, not even.

 

[94Talon2]

I had to do the same thing, do you have any free play? because I don't.

Nick, on mine EVERYTHING was new including the TRE spec tranny. We ended up welding 2 extra nuts onto the "C"shaped block the rod from the master cylinder threads into for adjustment as we were on the last thread and the clutch would engage IMMEDIATLY upon moving it from the floor. Used an old rod to line the nuts with the hole in the "C" block so we added a 1/2"extra adjustment and it worked! Mark

 

[sweet97]

If freeplay would be described as slop or looseness before the pedal lever acts then no I do not. mark

 

[Drifter27_04]

I have bought a car with tranny problems similar to what has been discussed in this thread. I have an Fidanza flywheel running a brand new ACT2100 clutch kit. Are there anyone running the same? I am starting also to believe that the fllywheel is for a frontwheel drive but not for sure how to tell if it is or not because the flywheel was on the car when I gotten it. I hope the guy who I bought it from didnt put a FWD flywheel on the car. Also a bigger question concerns me after the guy who is working on the car mentions that my stock flywheel bolts are to short for the flywheel. Has anyone here heard of this? I was told from a friend that he has heard of something of the nature but thought it was for the bolts being to long for the flywheel which makes more since to me. The shorter flywheel bolts is what brought to my attention of the flywheel being for a FWD.

Has anyone welded the clutch assembly I am thinking of having it done but not for sure. I have had the shop already taken out the tranny twice and today they will be putting it back in again. Today I am going to have them to shim the pivot ball.

Does anyone have pics of adding an extra nut to the "C" bracket of the master?

Does anyone know where I can get the specs for the AWD & FWD fidanza flywheel so I my out rule the flywheel thought?

 

[sweet97]

www.fidanza.com sales should be able to help or direct you. The "C" bracket that the master rod threads into has a lock nut. That is the side TWO (2) extra nuts are welded on with threaded rod to align them with the threading in the "C" bracket. This allows an extra half inch of adjustment and did the trick for me. Also shimmed the slave rod as it sits in a cup. That did not help. EVERYTHING was new, tranny and ACT wheel and clutch kit. Mark

MORE INFO: [email protected]
Brad Bojc phone: 440-259-5656 ext.111
also phone: 440-259-5588

 

[Drifter27_04]

Thank you Sweet97 for the info. I will email fidanza

 

[SwaT]

*sigh* I'm having the same problems fellas. Nick, did you ever get your situation resolved? Looks like we have the same type DSM and clutch kit.

 

[sweet97]

SawT please fill out your vehicle info for us! Checkout my post for welding 2 extra nuts on the "C" bracket under the dash. Worked for me and I tried everything and even had a NEW TRE spec tranny. Mark

 

[SwaT]

I've read your post, but would there be a big difference between the first and second gen fixes though?

 

[sweet97]

My transmission was manufactured this decade and is a fits all mitsubishi AWD tranny for all AWD vehicles. It came with something called a "fluid collecter" which was a cylinder between the master and the slave.It was mounted on the tranny. Removed that also as it was simply another place where air could get trapped. It was supposed to make shifting easier/smoother. Not sure if you have that. I installed an OEM master along with the new tranny and an ACT 2100. The tranny had a new fork/ball. Tried shimming the slave rod, no help. There was nothing else left.
I had to turn the motor off to shift into reverse. Got some grinding in the foreward gears also. Good luck, I know it's frustrating. Mark

 

[borg007]

I recently installed a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel with an ACT 2600 clutch kit. Imagine my surprise when I couldn't get the thing to shift. I took it apart, put it back together and the samething happened. I changed the fork and the ball it pivots on and ta da IT WORKS! I measured and there was almost a 1/4" difference between the old and the new. Go figure the wear and tear of 130,000 miles matters. Good luck!

 

[SFRacingGST]

Was wondering if there were any suggestions of what to do next. I just recently bought a 97 GSX., When I first got it, the car didn’t shift well and the clutch felt shot. So I went and replaced the clutch, flywheel, Master and slave and bleed the clutch line. After installing a new SBR 3500 and Fidanza Flywheel, My problem still occurs. When driving, when I go to down shift, there will be a very light pedal pressure and will not go into the gear. After releasing the clutch, waiting a second and pressing it back down, I can successfully put it into the gear I am trying to downshift into. I have adjust the master cylinder rod under the dash many times trying to find a spot that feels best, but I have adjusted it ¼ of a turn at ever point and still doesn’t change. Don’t know what my next step should be in trying to fix this on going annoying problem. The pedal pressure of the clutch is never consistent, feels lighter than suppose to be (even though slow boy made the clutch to be light pressure). When I first start it up, the pedal is firm and grabs about 3 inches down, but as I drive the pedal noticeably decreases in pressure and makes Launching, shifting, and downshifting feel bad.

 

[92jdmtsifwd]

i had the same problem & i replaced the clutch master, still doesn't work someone said a clutch spring could've popped out but he's a honda guy, does that happen alot w/ dsm's? it's a stock clutch & the car only has a few mods could it be the clutch or is it worth trying the slave cylinder & clutch fork?

 

[sweet97]

If the clutch master rod is adjusted right to the end you can try what I suggest above as it worked for me and I had replaced everything! mark

 

[Attack Eagle]

Was wondering if there were any suggestions of what to do next. I just recently bought a 97 GSX., When I first got it, the car didn’t shift well and the clutch felt shot. So I went and replaced the clutch, flywheel, Master and slave and bleed the clutch line. After installing a new SBR 3500 and Fidanza Flywheel, My problem still occurs. When driving, when I go to down shift, there will be a very light pedal pressure and will not go into the gear. After releasing the clutch, waiting a second and pressing it back down, I can successfully put it into the gear I am trying to downshift into. I have adjust the master cylinder rod under the dash many times trying to find a spot that feels best, but I have adjusted it ¼ of a turn at ever point and still doesn’t change. Don’t know what my next step should be in trying to fix this on going annoying problem. The pedal pressure of the clutch is never consistent, feels lighter than suppose to be (even though slow boy made the clutch to be light pressure). When I first start it up, the pedal is firm and grabs about 3 inches down, but as I drive the pedal noticeably decreases in pressure and makes Launching, shifting, and downshifting feel bad.

I had to go 2 turns down on mine, but I still havethe accumulator...

SF: sounds like you have a leaky master...

 

[SFRacingGST]

Got sick of trying to figure out the problem, Brought it to Pruven the opther day. They said that it soulds like i have a possible crankwalk issure... Thumbs down to that. Hopefully it will be able to fix rather than trashing the block