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clutch not disengaging please help

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Pressure plate. 3 fingers are about 1/16" further in and 1 is 1/8" further. It's got a big burn spot right where these fingers are. The clutch springs are ok but it's worn halfway to the rivets because of all the slippage. What a POS. :thumbdown
 
they must of had a bad batch of pressure plate, I know for now on I will pay much more attention to the new parts before installing them.And I tried a longer rod as well before I found out it was the pp, I made one in my basement in 5 minutes. before you buy one just take a bolt about the same diameter cut it a little longer and round off the ends.I have since replaced the pp with another act and its working fine.

Bob
 
I recently installed an ACT clutch kit with their flywheel. Cluch engages as SOON as I begin to remove it from the floor. It has been adjusted to the last thread. I am replacing the clutch pedal with a new shaft/bushings. I will post. Mark
 
I'm still waiting for the linkage but am going t try replaing the master cylinder while I'm waiting. mark
 
Damn.. I just bougt a 2600 kit and im having the same damn problem as everyone else. so how many people bought these with in the last few months that are having this problem??? is there any way to get ACT to replace the PP?
 
I had the same problem with my zoom clutch. It would not engage and disengage. It was working before I put in the new clutch (zoom). I pulled out the tranny 8 times after replacing every thing except the fork and piviot ball. 9th time replaced the fork and the piviot ball and it worked. I now have no problems with it. It dosen't take very much of a bent fork to make them not disengage. Personally I would never lengthen the shaft 1/4 inch. Big troubles if you run it like that. I know that you don't want to take out the tranny again but if that is your problem you are going to have to. You might be surprized at the diffrence that it makes.
 
Well im getting a SS clutch line, so hopefuly that fixes it, mine was getting pretty bad looking. ive got almost a brand new fork and ball in there so i dont know why to would bend already... who knows.......
 
DBR GVR4 said:
Damn.. I just bougt a 2600 kit and im having the same damn problem as everyone else. so how many people bought these with in the last few months that are having this problem??? is there any way to get ACT to replace the PP?
Send them your old one and they will send you a new one.

Bob
 
nitroawdtalon said:
I had the same problem with my zoom clutch. It would not engage and disengage. It was working before I put in the new clutch (zoom). I pulled out the tranny 8 times after replacing every thing except the fork and piviot ball. 9th time replaced the fork and the piviot ball and it worked. I now have no problems with it. It dosen't take very much of a bent fork to make them not disengage. Personally I would never lengthen the shaft 1/4 inch. Big troubles if you run it like that. I know that you don't want to take out the tranny again but if that is your problem you are going to have to. You might be surprized at the diffrence that it makes.
I'm having the same problem with my zoom.The fork and ball is the only thing I havn't change.I hope to get them this weekend.I'll let yoiu know if it works.
 
Replaced the master with a $150. OEM, no positive results. What's the latest? I spoke to a guy at ACT and they said it must have been installed incorrectly. Will try the new braided line. Mark
 
Another thing to look for is how easily the disc slides on the input shaft splines. If it binds at all the disc will stay caught on the flywheel and cause disengagement problems. Use grease or high temp anti seize on the splines of the input shaft before installing and slide the disc across, then wipe off an excess. Also look for wear on the part of the housing that the TOB rides on. If it has ridges worn into it it could be binding and causing problems. That happened to me a couple years ago when I used a metal sleeved TOB. Never run those POS things, always get a resin sleeved one.
 
??? When you put the clutch in should the fingers be flush with the clutch?(flat,almost in )Or should they up a little?When I put the clutch in all the fingers ar flat. And it wont disengage.
 
I ordered a braided line and the longer slave cylinder rod and I think that will do the trick for me as all alse is new! I ordered from DSM parts. Unfortunatly the rod is on back order, has been for a couple of weeks so Chris at the place told me. I will post result when installed. Mark
 
Well my mechanic already add a bolt and washer into the cup the rod slips into and no change. It really seems like ACT made some bum pressure plates. Anybody?? Mark
 
I just put a new ACT 2600 and ACT flywheel in my car... I also had the disengagement problem. Pulled it all back apart, inspected everything, and talked to ACT. Everything was right, so I put it back together.

My problem was the pressure plate bolts weren't tight enough. The ACT guy said 25 ft lbs, but I wasn't gonna pull the tranny again so I gave them an extra tug even after the 25 lbs torque. Just be sure not to over do it, cause I've heard they will break.

Clutch works great now. :)
 
Well I have a new TRE-SPEC tranny and I went with an X-ACT flywheel. Also the ACT2100 cutch kit. It would grab as soon as I lifted off the floor and grind on occasion. I replaced the slightly leaking master with an OEM unt at $150.! No help. Mechanic shimmed the slave rod with a bolt in the cup the rod rests in. No help.
He removed the fluid accumulator and welded 2 nuts to the lever that the rod from the master srcews into and lengthened that throw. Ureka & "Praise my Lord". It works like new. Mark
 
Any body got there problem fixed????

I have a new TRE tranny, new everything, and I mean everything and I still can't get the clutch to disengage. This is making me nuts :cry: !!!!
 
Read mypost just before yours. I had a new TRE spec tranny, everything new.Gotit resolved. If you want call me to explainin more detail.Mark 315-253-6088.
 
I have the same problem, the shop that worked on my car said it's the ACT Flywheel. I used a centerforce clutch. They said the last 4 ACT flywheels had this problem.

"He removed the fluid accumulator and welded 2 nuts to the lever that the rod from the master srcews into and lengthened that throw"

sounds like what they did to my car, and it cost me another $150. I don't have any free play on the top of the clutch pedal, but my clutch works fine now.
 
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