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clutch install gone horribly wrong 1g nt talon fwd

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robbiejohnson666

Probationary Member
21
0
Oct 5, 2012
casper, Wyoming
Okay so I put a new clutch in my car today the stock clutch was still in it when I bought it a few months ago. So anyways oem clutch and pressure plate from autozone no problems whatsoever going in or taking the old one out. Now the car won't start I got a new starter and put it in and same thing wouldn't crank at all then I went to try to start it again after I got a new battery and still nothing I can hear the starter pop out and try to turn the flywheel but something isn't turning right. So I took out 1 bolt that was descustingly impossible to get to inbetween the starter an:banghead:d driverside cv and now it turns fine but still won't start I'm at a loss I am verry mechanicly inclined so any sugjestions would be so much appriciated. This is my daily driver so I need it horriby bad to run
 
I recently used the same clutch kit from autozone myself. You might want to check the throw out bearing they break very easy on that crap stock clutch from autozone trust me I went through 6 before I finally ordered a aftermarket one. It may suck but take the tranny back out and check the throw out bearing I can almost gaurentee you that the plastic clips that hold the throw out bearing on the fork are broken. Mine broke going down the road then 3 times on install. Check it out...
 
did you replace the flywheel? if you did.... did what did you use to stop it from turning to tighten the bolts. if you used a screwdriver in the cams like my idiot self did you could have jumped a tooth or two on the timing and bent your valves. its probably worst case scenario but i did it before so its possible... it need fuel spark and compression check them all if it has them all it will start.

i went through all the checks and found it had fuel and spark but every cylinder had bad compression when i made my mistake...

also, if you have been turning it over alot you will flood the engine with gas and or ruin your starter so remember that. when i went therough the trials i took plugs out cleaned them and cranked it with plugs out and rag over cylinders to clear out some gas/ see if there was gas.
 
I have the tranny on my desk right now in my garage but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the pilot bearing to stay still when I take the allignment tool out.
 
Yea don't think its suposed to have one I took it out and it maade a world of difference it was binding up on the flywheel keeping it from cranking fast enough. Now I'm putting it all back together and seeing if she starts
 
maybe he means the throw-out bearing. the thow bearing is attached to a yoke that is very important not to lose. if you lost the yoke this might be why you cant find a place for it. the yoke makes the fork move the bearing back and forth. neither 1g awd/fwd anything should have a piloy bearing at all. however some universal kits come with them. just toss it if thats the case. most likely the clutch area wont have anything to do with your car not starting. unless you disconnected some sensor or wire in the process or jumped timing. check maf/cas/starter wires/ and battery connections. maybe you grounded something out? check fuel pump fuse ect
 
maybe he means the throw-out bearing. the thow bearing is attached to a yoke that is very important not to lose. if you lost the yoke this might be why you cant find a place for it. the yoke makes the fork move the bearing back and forth. neither 1g awd/fwd anything should have a piloy bearing at all. however some universal kits come with them. just toss it if thats the case. most likely the clutch area wont have anything to do with your car not starting. unless you disconnected some sensor or wire in the process or jumped timing. check maf/cas/starter wires/ and battery connections. maybe you grounded something out? check fuel pump fuse ect

The release/throwout bearing resides and moves on the input shaft neck, is affixed to the fork via a retainer clip, pivots on a pivot ball threaded into the transmission, and the fork is pushed by the slave cylinder rod. What is this yoke you speak of, and how can you lose it?

If you don't have the clip, then you'd likely lose the release bearing off the fork with the first clutch press, and it would never go back in again because of the tangs on the bearing wouldn't align with the fork properly again.

Sounds like OP is investigating the inclusion of a pilot bearing. By the way, if it had that, it's certainly not an OEM clutch ;) Doubt Autozone carries anything "OEM" for a DSM. It's aftermarket, and possibly a suspect one at that.
 
It the engine is turning this has nothing to do with the clutch/flywheel. This is a fuel or spark issue. If you said you checked the spark, then it must be fuel.

Pull the connector off the ignition transistor pack. Then pull all you spark plugs and crank the engine (you will notice the engine is spinning really fast, this is normal). Take a whiff out of the top of the cylinders? Do you smell any fuel?
 
the yoke is a larger y shaped item. it mightbe what youre calling the retainer clip it connects to the throwout on each side hole. ya it might bea obvious neccessary part but kits dont come with a new yokethey make u reuse it so thats how it could be forgotten. but it likes he probably knows what hes doing. i dont think the problem is clutch/flywheel related though like others said
 
ummm...no yoke in the bell housing. If you're talking about the TOB retaining clip, it's just that, a clip. not a yoke.

and we've all pointed the OP in the right direction's to inspect the problem, waiting on the OP to resolve it and post back here.
 
No response for 2 days, he probably got it running again hopefully he responds with the results and the actual problem.
 
Okay sorry for the delayed post boys my phone shit the preverbial bed I did a lot of tinkering and it was exactlyy what I thought the pilot bearing that I was stupid enough to think I needed was binding up the fly wheel after bolting the pilot bearing to the roof of my garage and ligghting it on fire I put it back togetherand tryed it first try she rolled right over and started right up. However I forgot to plug in my o2 sensor and she was smoking like a mofo so my next ? Is if anyone knows if I could wire a 1g turbo maf up tp a n/t car because I can't get one for mine w/o lopping of a nut and sacrificing my first bornm
 
a turbo maf is probably not going to work, but you could always try if you have one.

i dont see how some wrecking yard around you doesnt have a 1g nt in it. several in the yards around here and a maf is only about 10-15 bux.
 
Pilot bearing is for the automatics, it slips into the crank.

The turbo maf will work, but you will either need to splice in the turbo maf pig tail since its a 8 pin connector, the non turbo is a 6 pin. Or use spade connectors on the engine harness to plug into the maf pins. Also its either going to make you run richer or leaner... not sure which. IF you had a wideband you could easily adjust the maf by plugging up the non metered air ducts in it....but only if you had a wideband to get it into spec.
 
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