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Clutch engagement problem

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97gst1126

10+ Year Contributor
140
0
Nov 23, 2008
murfreesboro, Tennessee
Today after driving around for 10 minutes are so my clutch pedal got stuck all the way down. I was able to limp it to a nearby parking lot and yank the pedal back up and pump it up. It worked for maybe 4-6 more pumps untill it would eventaully get stuck down again. I can do this everytime but it wont stay the way its supposed to. I had this happen before ,but ended up being a old line so i replaced it with a stainless line. Now a month later it has started again. I completely bleeded the line before and filled with a synthetic fluid instead. Any suggestions what it may be? I was told the master cyclinder was replaced before i bought it which was almost a year to date. Im at a total loss really.

No body have some good advice?
 
Ya i checked them both. It doesnt seem to be losing any fluid. I was told the masters was replaced about a year ago. It will slowly go to the floor without any pressure behind it and i cant disengage or engage it at all.
 
2 things to check. Look down at the slave cylinder and see if the boot is filling up with the fluid. If the seal is bad there you wont see it leaking till the boot fills up enough to finally pop off. Check by popping the boot off and making sure its dry.

If thats good, then the master cyl is the culprit. Theres a seal inside that often goes bad where it cause the fluid to just go around the cup seal on the shaft. You wont have any fluid leak because all the bypassed fluid just goes back to the resevoir.

A rebuild kit or rebuilt MC is pretty cheap, just make sure you measure the push rod cause some of the non-OEM kits will have the wrong rod. IIRC, it will be longer.
 
2 things to check. Look down at the slave cylinder and see if the boot is filling up with the fluid. If the seal is bad there you wont see it leaking till the boot fills up enough to finally pop off. Check by popping the boot off and making sure its dry.

If thats good, then the master cyl is the culprit. Theres a seal inside that often goes bad where it cause the fluid to just go around the cup seal on the shaft. You wont have any fluid leak because all the bypassed fluid just goes back to the resevoir.

A rebuild kit or rebuilt MC is pretty cheap, just make sure you measure the push rod cause some of the non-OEM kits will have the wrong rod. IIRC, it will be longer.

I have the same problem. But at times mines will go back to normal and happen again.
For the op. You have to be really sure if money is tight. I've tried many things on this site to no help. I've read threads on here where they change the master and slave with still problems.
I'm close to taking it to a mistu tech.
 
I as well am having the same problem. However it takes a few hrs. for the pressure to leave, but i can pump it back up and it will work for as long as i am driving the car. I rebuilt the master and slave as well and still I have this problem but now that the rebuild is done i just dont have any fluid leaking. :confused:
 
The way to check the internal seals on the MC is to put light pressure on the pedal, not enough to disengage the clutch but enough to over-come the spring. If the pedal slowly sinks to the floor then the seal is bad.

Its just a general pedal sink problem, and every car Ive ever owned eventually got this.
 
The way to check the internal seals on the MC is to put light pressure on the pedal, not enough to disengage the clutch but enough to over-come the spring. If the pedal slowly sinks to the floor then the seal is bad.

Its just a general pedal sink problem, and every car Ive ever owned eventually got this.



This is EXACTLY what happens. So went to a local parts store and was able to get a brand new oem for 30 bucks. Should install later today and ill post up the results. Thanks
 
check your master and slave cylinder you may have to replace even if it was said to be new it may have been installed wrong and caused more problems in turn.
 
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