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clutch engagement issue. or maybe not.

Posted by WhiteVoid, May 10, 2014

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  1. WhiteVoid

    WhiteVoid Proven Member

    Joined Dec 17, 2011
    joplin, Missouri
    I just recently had a southbend ss/tz clutch and act streetlite flywheel installed along with new master, new slave, oem throw out bearing, and stainless steel clutchline. The system was bled properly and I followed the jacks transmissions video to adjust the clutch pedal. Now when I let out of the clutch pedal I only have maybe a half to three quarters of an inch before the clutch is fully engaged. Is this how the clutch is supposed to feel? It's hard to slip the clutch and doesn't feel like the pedal has much throw to it. This is the first time I've had a new clutch in my dsm so I'm not sure how it is supposed to feel. If it is wrong what could it be?
  2. dskagr

    dskagr Proven Member

    Joined Feb 7, 2011
    209/408, California
    That's just how mine was/is. I was having the same issue, so I ended up replacing my auto parts slave & master with OEM ones and it helped a bit.

    Street Build 31K  29  24  24

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
  3. TurkF26

    TurkF26 Supporting VIP

    Joined Sep 6, 2003
    vacaville, California
    Do you have any slop in the pedal? Does the clutch disengage when you start pressing the pedal or does it only disengage almost to the floor?

    When I had my ACT2600 and Fidanza flywheel, It would engage literally right off the floor. I preferred it that way so I never messed with it.

    As long as the pedal is stiff and there is not slop in it, then you are all good.
  4. gearhead07

    gearhead07 Proven Member

    Joined Jan 4, 2011
    Auburn, Pennsylvania
    Dose it fully disengage when depressed?
  5. boostneverlies

    boostneverlies Proven Member

    Joined Mar 31, 2014
    mil, Wisconsin
    Is your master cylinder leaking? Are you running the stock rubber line or a stainless steel line?
  6. MindBlowin03

    MindBlowin03 Proven Member

    Joined Apr 11, 2002
    Peckville, Pennsylvania
    Definitely not correct IMO. You either...
    A) Pull the transmission and add a very small shim under the pivot ball, or
    B) Take the easy way out and just adjust your master rod in a little deeper. You will disengage earlier but will not have an 'open' system like in Jack's video.

    2K  5

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    3K  10

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    608 whp · 510 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  7. TurkF26

    TurkF26 Supporting VIP

    Joined Sep 6, 2003
    vacaville, California
    I have never had to add a shim to my pivot ball for the Fork on any clutch replacement. I have done ACT 2600's, 4 and 6 puck clutches, etc... I kept the factory line from the master cylinder to the frame rail and just replaced the factory small line with a stainless line. I have always just blend the crap out of the system and made sure my slave cylinder was always in top working order.

    I would just check everything from the pedal to the slave cylinder, bleed a quart or so of fluid through the system, etc... Last thing to do is to pull the tranny again, no one enjoys or likes to pull tranmissions, LOL.
  8. RSTurboFWD90

    RSTurboFWD90 Proven Member

    Joined May 9, 2006
    Atlanta, Georgia
    I just replaced the master and slave cylinders. After 24 years the slave finally started leaking. I never made any clutch adjustments and the disk and pressure plate are original at 66k miles. As long as I can remember, my clutch has had at least two inches of stoke at the top until it begins to disengage. Then, it is completely disengaged about 1 1/2 inches from the floor. It's still like that with the new cylinders. My master cylinder push rod is backed out of the clevis so the pedal is about as high as it can be. The factory master cylinder was setup the same. The clutch action on this car has been terrible since it was new. I've gotten used to it.

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