Clutch dragging

[twicks69]

Hopefully you just have the front disk backwards.

Worst case scenario we use the conical TOB that is taller to remedy the situation. Like I said, there has only been 1 other person that needed the conical TOB; which was John (TSIAWD666).

 

[nicknorth11]

Yeah. That would be great. I'm anxious to get this thing apart! What are the odds that I've damaged something if it is in wrong? And will it be easy to tell if I have when I'm looking at it?

 

[nicknorth11]

Well, the first disc was installed correctly, as it is labeled "flywheel side." However, I couldn't check any subsequent discs since they had embedded themselves into the cover legs. I'm assuming this is abnormal, but I don't know what could have caused it. So some questions are raised:
1) Will the cover still work in its current condition? (If not, can I have the voids filled/welded, or will I need a new one?)
2) How did this happen?
3) Is this related to the clutch not engaging?
4) Is it ok to take a rubber mallet and tap the discs free?

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[twicks69]

Dude, you didn't assemble it correctly.

The pressure plate and floater plates are designed to engage the clutch cover, hence the 6 slots on them that match the shape of the cover legs, as well as that would be how I sent the clutch to you assembled correctly. Your cover is junk. Take it apart and see what else you wrecked.

 

[nicknorth11]

Figures. I had it for months before I installed it. It must have gotten mixed up when being moved around. Oh well, no use crying over it now. I'll take it apart when I get home tonight and see how the rest looks.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Figures. I had it for months before I installed it. It must have gotten mixed up when being moved around. Oh well, no use crying over it now. I'll take it apart when I get home tonight and see how the rest looks.

Good call removing it. Good thing it was removed before a cover leg or tooth broke off in the bell housing. At least you have an answer now. Pretty clear what the slipping was.

 

[nicknorth11]

Yeah, I just hope it doesn't cost me (another) arm and a leg to fix. This could end up being worse case scenario.

 

[nicknorth11]

I got everything taken apart without further damaging anything. Here are my findings. Other than the cover, everything looks pretty good to me, but that's not saying much.

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[twicks69]

Looks like you just need a new clutch cover.

 

[nicknorth11]

Cool. Lesson learned. Don't be a dumbass. I'll place the order soon. Thanks for the help guys, and a huge thanks to you, Tim!

 

[twicks69]

No problem dude, sorry you had to learn the hard way!

I stock the clutch covers, so its a fast ship-out.

Go to this link, then scroll down to replacement parts: QM 7.25" Rally V-Drive Clutch Cover
http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi QM Clutch Parts.html

 

[nicknorth11]

New clutch cover fixed the problem. I thought this clutch was nice before, but holy shit is it awesome now! Launching is easy and shifting at any RPM is like butter. For anyone interested in a great clutch, I can't recommend this thing enough. More importantly, though, Tim has not only helped me on this forum, but has sent many emails back and forth with me helping me out. He even continued helping me with another issue I had after my clutch was installed. Talk about above and beyond! Thank you very much, Tim.

 

[twicks69]

No problem dude, enjoy the clutch!

You will learn how to do idle-out starts from a stop on flat ground, it takes a bit of time to get used to it, but you can leave from a stop at 1000-1500rpm and there will be almost no chatter and it will extend the life of the clutch quite a bit. Even with the race friction disks, I was able to manage almost 30,000 miles out of them and they were only at 0.240" when I pulled them for a fresh disk pack even though the limits are 0.230-0.235".

The drawbacks to a twin are harmonics, and drivetrain wear. The harmonics can be dampened a bit with a Fluidampr crank harmonic damper, as well as reducing the amount of high rpm decel (engine braking). The harmonics as well as the solid hub disks do like to beat the crap out of your synchro keyways and break 3/4/5/R hub and slider springs, so the smoother the shifting and the less high rpm harmonics will help with longevity of these parts. Thankfully, hub and slider springs are cheap, and typically 3/4/5/R synchros take the most abuse from the aggressiveness of the twin disk during shifting. If you ever feel like out of nowhere you can't shift into 3/4/5/R (any of them) without a grind, but if you just jam the shifter into gear it goes in just fine, you know that you are dealing with broken springs and beat up keyways on the synchros.