Clutch dragging at hi rev

[JackM]

I know some people don't like this solution but the welded nut on the end gives you a little extra adjustment and if you don't need to thread it out that far then there is no damage done. I did not like the idea of only having a little bit of threading holding the rod in with as much pressure is seen there on those threads so I welded a nut on the end to help me sleep at night.

Smart man! That is exactly what I was thinking Ben needed. It looks to me like his arm isn't long enough, so he is unable to adjust the unit far enough to work properly. Ben, I can weld one up for you and send one if you don't have a way to weld it on your own. Let me know...

Jack

 

[Ben]

Unless this makes enough difference for the car not to move til about 7500, then I think it's time for a twin disk.

 

[4Motion4g63]

I have Revved up my car IN neutral and felt it move forward?
I dont think it was driving the wheels though but it did move forward....

If the clutch is dragging how do you adjust the drag?

 

[Ben]

You need to be in 1st gear, then see at what point the car starts moving foward. needs to be at least 7,000-7,500.

 

[havoc742]

Here check this out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...nly-missed-clutch-issue-1g.html#post151608324

Reading all these issues with the ACT 2600 I have noticed one common trend. The Fidanza flywheel. About 3 weeks ago I order my ACT 2100 thanks to the boys at R//RE instead of the 2600. They warn about using the 2600 mated with the Fidanza. This clutch just doesn't work well together.

I recommend saving the couple hundred buck on a new clutch and buy the lightened stock flywheel. Its the #1 recommendation from R//RE for the 2600.

 

[Ben]

I'll check out that thread, but I already switched to a stock flywheel. I have an RRE lightned flywheel, but I wanted full stock weight.

My clutch setup was machine matched at Jacks Transmissions.

And I'm not sure if the 2100 will hold a 60 trim.

 

[havoc742]

I don't know what the 2100 will hold but here is what Buschur says:

High-Performance Clutch
The stock clutch will allow much of the new power at the crank to slip past the flywheel and your car won't "feel" as fast as it really is. A new clutch will also improve your 60' times at the track since it transfers more power to the ground.

We prefer the ACT 2100 or 2600 lb clutches. An added benefit it that the clutch discs are replaceable without replacing the pressure plate.

The ACT 2100 will hold enough power to propel you car into the high 11's.

The ACT 2600 will hold as much power as a DSM can produce! There is a significant increase in pedal pressure over stock with this clutch.

Buschur Racing - Your source for Mitsubishi racing parts and accessories

 

[Ben]

I went ahead and ordered my twin disk from devotuning today.

Hopefully this will take care of my problems, if not, then i have a badass clutch. haha

 

[havoc742]

For any of you still having having clutch adjustment problems check out this vid on youtube from Jacks Transmission. This vid is addressing the 2G but I believe the same precautions apply to 1G's.

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

Pay close attention to what he says between 3:00 and 4:00 minutes.

 

[droppinbottom]

Good try at showing the video Jack made. It can help in some situations but unfortunatly not in the ones we are seeing in this thread.

My example is I am using the ACT 2600 sprung 6 puck with the act flywheel and no matter what we have done it still drags. I personally wonder if these clutches were designed to see the rpm's we are trying to get to. On a car that would shift at stock shift points I don't see a problem with the act clutches but anything over stock shift points and the dragging becomes a issue.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I just recently installed a ACT2600 PP with SB straight Kevlar disk recommended by DSMtuners wiseman member Twicks69. I have a thread on the topic in this section as well.

I was initially having troubles getting it to disengage far enough and I had new master/slave cylinders, ss braided line, and even tried extended slave/master and nothing worked until I realize autopart slave cylinders are shit, and just taking out the spring inside of it made it get enough pedal travel to not roll forward soon as you throw it in first gear. Kind of strange.

Well I havent actually done any pulls or taking the car beyond 4500 rpm yet due to break in, I just finally got 250 miles on it and was actually trying to make 300miles before making any real pulls, though it does feel broken in.

At first it was shifting funny when I first started driving with the clutch, but now everything has loosened up and feels normal when shifting at low rpm, but i did not do the rev to 7k in first gear test to see if it rolls forward. I actually cant because I have a 5500rpm step and I have a chipped ecu so I cant just turn it off. So Im just going to try a pull and see if it will shift correctly at higher rpms to see if I am having same troubles as you guys.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Smart man! That is exactly what I was thinking Ben needed. It looks to me like his arm isn't long enough, so he is unable to adjust the unit far enough to work properly. Ben, I can weld one up for you and send one if you don't have a way to weld it on your own. Let me know...

Jack

Jack

But welding a nut on the end of the master cylinder bracket would be contradictive to your video about pedal adjustment.

If you weld the nut on are you doing that to just get more thread behind it, or to actually extend the length of the throw? If you are extending the length of the throw it surely will block off that bleed hole you were talking about in your vid, thus making the clutch non adjustable since the fluid wont be able to move backwards.

How crucial is it to have the hydralic system be adjustable
(meaning not over extending master cylinder throw.)

What does this do for wear and tear? Right now mines must be over adjusted because I cannot push in on the clutch fork towards the direction of the slave cyl. with my finger.

My engagement point is a little low, I feel if I back off those threads to were its adjustable then it wont disengage enough. Maybe Ill just have to do that anyways and just extend the slave cylinder to make up for it?

 

[MidnightTSI]

I just recently installed a ACT2600 PP with SB straight Kevlar disk recommended by DSMtuners wiseman member Twicks69. I have a thread on the topic in this section as well.

I was initially having troubles getting it to disengage far enough and I had new master/slave cylinders, ss braided line, and even tried extended slave/master and nothing worked until I realize autopart slave cylinders are shit, and just taking out the spring inside of it made it get enough pedal travel to not roll forward soon as you throw it in first gear. Kind of strange.

Well I havent actually done any pulls or taking the car beyond 4500 rpm yet due to break in, I just finally got 250 miles on it and was actually trying to make 300miles before making any real pulls, though it does feel broken in.

At first it was shifting funny when I first started driving with the clutch, but now everything has loosened up and feels normal when shifting at low rpm, but i did not do the rev to 7k in first gear test to see if it rolls forward. I actually cant because I have a 5500rpm step and I have a chipped ecu so I cant just turn it off. So Im just going to try a pull and see if it will shift correctly at higher rpms to see if I am having same troubles as you guys.

I will be testing my setup in the same fashion once I get back to the states. I'm glad that I have been able to learn a lot from you guys on this subject. Before I left for Iraq I barely got my car running, didn't bleed my master cylinder properly, and I put 500 miles on my car driving it very conservatively (for break in). I think around the 500 mile mark I took it up to around 6000 RPM's and shifted with no dragging at all.

I will be going through everything when I return to make sure it is good to go. I have the ACT 2600 w/street disk, and the ACT XACT Flywheel, and Jacks value build. I will first bleed the system properly, then check my pedal assembly as you guys have talked about. I am still very much a noob so everything on this is helpful. I will be watching Jacks video soon also. Oh and I also have a slave cylinder extrension rod for the 2600. I think maybe this has been what has saved me from dragging so far. I will be happy with 7000 RPM's on the G50 with E85.

Black_Bullet, thanks for the information. I hope this thread helps you figure this out

Any more updates on anyone elses dragging situation?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Around the 350 mile mark on this new clutch I started doing pulls... Taking it to 7k and no dragging, or slipping so far so good. Now if I can only figure out how to launch it without spinning all fours since it engages so fast.

 

[MidnightTSI]

Around the 350 mile mark on this new clutch I started doing pulls... Taking it to 7k and no dragging, or slipping so far so good. Now if I can only figure out how to launch it without spinning all fours since it engages so fast.

Very nice Jay. As far as the launch goes are you preloading at all? I know that I will have to learn how to do that so that I don't break any axles or drivetrain parts besides the tranny. When I was on my Big 16G untuned I basically just dropped clutch at the track

Back on topic though I guess I have just been lucky as far as the dragging goes. I'm glad I caught this though because it has probably saved me from breaking stuff

 

[red_devil]

Back from the dead:

I just installed a 2600 with street disc. Has new tob, pivot ball, fork, slave cylinder and ss line. The flywheel was restepped slighly so I shimmed the pivot ball with one washer. The fork sits slighlty to the dr side where it should. System was bled five times. I adjusted the pedal as far back as possible without closing the bleed valve. The clutch engages very close to the floor and it drags at around 6500rpm. What can I do, or is it just the ACTpp?

The master cyl was not replaced but is not leaking.

 

[Ben]

I went through the same thing before I bought my twin disk. I sent my stock flywheel, m act 2600pp and a brand new act street disk to Jacks to have him machine everything to match and havethe correct step hieght. I also had a brand new(all bought from mitsu) master cyl, slave cyl, clutch fork, tob, pivot ball with one shim and braided clutch line(not form the dealer obviously). My car would still start moving even before 6500 RPM.

After getting my QM twin disk I could rev the the rev limiter at 7800 and the car didnt even think about moving. I LOVED launching after getting the twin disk(and some somewhat sticky tires).