2G Clutch dragging/slipping/chattering bad

[Brad Bell]

So i installed a used stage 2 southbend clutch in my 1999 eclipse GS 420a turbo (yes i turbo-ed a 420a and it is a beast), however I have this huge clutch problem which I hope can be fixed easily by adjustment and not having to replace the entire clutch assembly. So first of all the clutch drags like hell, by placing the car in first gear while holding down the clutch and revving the engine up to redline, the car begins to move around 6k rpm. The clutch also engages immediately off the floor, and when I say this I mean the instant I even begin to let my foot off the clutch pedal the clutch engages, maybe a 1/4 of a inch. It is very hard to get the car into 1st gear and especially reverse, it is almost like the clutch is not disengaging all the way, or not adjusted correctly. The other problem I am having is that if I go WOT or go over lets say 5psi of boost on light to medium throttle, the clutch chatters really hard. When it chatters it shakes the whole front end of the car, when it does chatter it typically happens around 2500 to 3500 rpm, the rpm's will jump around 500rpm and will catch and release over and over, like the clutch is banging against the flywheel. The whole problem seems to me like either the master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad or even both. I bled the clutch for hours with zero air in the system, I haven't found any leaks either as my fluid reservoir hasn't' dropped at all. I really do hope this isnt just the clutch going bad. Thanks for all the responses.
Brad

 

[livedsm4g63]

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[Brad Bell]

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I knew someone would post this video haha, the only thing I've tried is bringing out the clutch stopper so it has more throw, however the clutch is so loose for about and inch before I actually start feeling some pressure. I don't quite understand the other adjustment he is talking about in the video.

 

[livedsm4g63]

Ok, so you adjusted the rod to the max throw already? (Ran out of rod length? and it still feels sloppy?)

 

[Brad Bell]

Ok, so you adjusted the rod to the max throw already? (Ran out of rod length? and it still feels sloppy?)

What rod? the rod coming from the master cylinder into the pedal? I dont understand how you adjust it.

 

[livedsm4g63]

Yeah. So there is a locking nut. It works best to turn upside down and throw your feet up on your seat. I believe its a 12mm wrench that is needed to get up in there to unlock it. Once the locking nut is backed off you can then take (I believe) a 10mm wrench to the rod. There should be a hex on the rod to spin it with a wrench. In your case you need more travel, so the rod needs to go into the master cylinder. This means that you would then have less thread, where it threads into. (Less sticking out of the rear.) Make sense?

 

[AdR]

What rod? the rod coming from the master cylinder into the pedal? I dont understand how you adjust it.

Have you looked underneath for it? There is a clevis with a pin and behind the clevis there's a retaining nut. Remove pin, Loosen nut, rotate clevis to adjust in or out of the master cylinder rod. It's pretty self explanatory in that video. You can also rotate the rod itself and it will adjust without removing the clevis from the pedal.

 

[Brad Bell]

Have you looked underneath for it? There is a clevis with a pin and behind the clevis there's a retaining nut. Remove pin, Loosen nut, rotate clevis to adjust in or out of the master cylinder rod. It's pretty self explanatory in that video. You can also rotate the rod itself and it will adjust without removing the clevis from the pedal.

Okay so i turned the rod to the maximum point before the slave cylinder would still do its self adjusting function, just from that the pedal feels a lot better and will shift into gears way better than before. The car ever so slightly creeps forward though when doing the clutch drag test, although it started creeping just as I was hitting my rev limiter. Now I just hope this stops the clutch from chattering so bad when driving it. Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[livedsm4g63]

Glad to hear. I would suggest adjusting it a tad further as it sounds as if it is still dragging. Best of luck.

 

[AdR]

If after adjusting to the maximum you still drag there might be an issue with the step of the flywheel or a distortion of the clutch/pressure plate, which kinda sounds like it since you are chattering. Chatter is the clutch skipping on the engaging surfaces much like when you warp a rotor and your brake pedal vibrates. If there is a warping on any of the surfaces it will cause additional clutch drag as the vibrations at higher rpms will amplify that deflection. You can either bandaid fix it with a longer slave to fork rod or you'd need to change the problematic component (whichever it is). Also, if you have a balance shaft delete clutch drag will become more pronounced.

 

[Brad Bell]

If after adjusting to the maximum you still drag there might be an issue with the step of the flywheel or a distortion of the clutch/pressure plate, which kinda sounds like it since you are chattering. Chatter is the clutch skipping on the engaging surfaces much like when you warp a rotor and your brake pedal vibrates. If there is a warping on any of the surfaces it will cause additional clutch drag as the vibrations at higher rpms will amplify that deflection. You can either bandaid fix it with a longer slave to fork rod or you'd need to change the problematic component (whichever it is). Also, if you have a balance shaft delete clutch drag will become more pronounced.

Okay so my clutch pretty much destroyed itself last week, So I opened up my transmission from my 420a on my 1999 eclipse GS after my clutch went to hell, and found my throw out bearing completely destroyed along with the shaft that the throw out bearing rides on to be snapped off at the base where it meets the bell housing area. I have pictures. I have no idea what this part is even called exactly or how to fix it. Where can I buy a new one?Any advice would be great. Thanks!