Clutch Chirp when pedal is not depressed. Cant get car into gear.

[Spunub]

Good evening all!

I have recently made the transition from a life of Subaru to my first Mitsubishi, an imported '93 Lancer Evolution. Lower mile vehicle, great service history, I have had it approximately 1k miles and now I can't get the car in gear unless forcing it (did once, will not do again). Grinds into reverse as well.

There is a loud chirping noise when the pedal is not depressed (upright). Ive been reading a ton of forums, a lotus group mentioned TOBs or release bearings, general interwebs says pivot ball. I live in a decently cold area (~20 degrees) and have seen DSM guys say the car must be allowed to fully warm up. Ive done that twice now and the chirp gets louder for a bit and then becomes intermittent. From here on, the car may or may not get into gear.

A buddy of mine helped me bleed the slave, we got a tiny bit of air, even compressed slave with bleeder open and pedal on the floor. The slave operates totally fine along the full length of travel.

We are confused as where to go next as we are both military with very little time off, we want to make sure we get our next month's weekend right by knowing the problem ahead of time. I also would need research time to find out which parts of this Evo are 1G/mirage and which are 2G. Thank you for any and all wisdom passed down!

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[pauleyman]

Good evening all!

I have recently made the transition from a life of Subaru to my first Mitsubishi, an imported '93 Lancer Evolution. Lower mile vehicle, great service history, I have had it approximately 1k miles and now I can't get the car in gear unless forcing it (did once, will not do again). Grinds into reverse as well.

There is a loud chirping noise when the pedal is not depressed (upright). Ive been reading a ton of forums, a lotus group mentioned TOBs or release bearings, general interwebs says pivot ball. I live in a decently cold area (~20 degrees) and have seen DSM guys say the car must be allowed to fully warm up. Ive done that twice now and the chirp gets louder for a bit and then becomes intermittent. From here on, the car may or may not get into gear.

A buddy of mine helped me bleed the slave, we got a tiny bit of air, even compressed slave with bleeder open and pedal on the floor. The slave operates totally fine along the full length of travel.

How do you know? Based on what measurement?
Has the car always done this or is it a new development? All of a sudden? gradual over time? Have you adjusted clutch at the master?
This thead might help. Not everything will apply to an evo vs a dsm but all the trans parts are the same as far as clutch is concerned.
clutch basics

We are confused as where to go next as we are both military with very little time off, we want to make sure we get our next month's weekend right by knowing the problem ahead of time. I also would need research time to find out which parts of this Evo are 1G/mirage and which are 2G. Thank you for any and all wisdom passed down!

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[Spunub]

We discussed adjusting the clutch but everything we knew combined came from reading these forums and I would prefer not to use an extending rod as there seems to be so much debate about usefulness / masking problems.

We definitely eyeballed the "full throw" but it does seem to be moving completely combined with the chirping makes me think more bearing related.

This issue started instantaneously, just came back from driving 6 hours from a show in SC and then drove it once more with no issues. Problem started occuring the next time I went to drive it, no indication of issues before.

 

[pauleyman]

typically that's a hydraulic failure or a clutch failure. If clutch can still actuate put it in first, clutch in, start it. If it lurches it's obviously not disengaging. Alternately if it doesn't lurch rev the piss out of it. If it starting moving the clutch isn't disengaging. i suspect if it's as bad as you say it will lurch. If you feel hydraulics are good that points to clutch failure.