1G Clutch Adjustment issues (adjustment rod length)

[Mifff]

I purchased a 93 Talon about a year ago and I have been catching up on years of neglected maintenance. I have now come into a problem where the car is notchy to shift. I know there are a lot of threads on this and I have tried to read them all first.

This is what I have done so far:
1. I rebuilt both master and slave cylinders (OEM rebuilds)
2. I rebuilt the pedal assembly (brand new parts from JNZ)
3. I replaced the line from the master-> slave with a SS braided line.
4. I bled the system 2-3 times and removed the restrictor in the slave as well.
- includes pushing in the clutch and slaves as much as possible and then using a vacuum to try and flush out bubbles.
- I picked up a speed bleeder for the slave to eliminate as much user error as possible.

I did step on the spring in the slave cylinder accidentally when I was reassembling it. It's slightly bent but I don't know if that really matters.

I cannot adjust the slave like in Jacks clutch adjustment video. Jack says that the slave will have fluid in it and it should be easy to push back into the cylinder. On my cylinder the slave always collapses fully when I release the clutch. I don't know if this means that the relief valve is staying open since no fluid stays in the slave or something else is the matter.

I started trying to adjust the clutch with the adjustment rod all the way in (pedal on the floor) and the clutch operates best with the rod almost out of the clevis. I saw this thread about putting a 2g adjustment rod in the master to get additional travel. I don't want to do this but i'm currently stumped on how to fix this one.

When I disassembled the old slave the slave rod was bent, so I replaced that with another from the junkyard of the same length, could the rod have also bent the fork? I would think not but i never rule anything out until I've replaced it or made sure it's within spec.

My observations are that it's hard to get into 1st, the rest of the gears aren't to bad but I can feel it hit (or what I assume to be) the synchro and stop for a fraction of a second before going in. I have replaced the shifter bushings with the Symborski ones. The ends going into the transmission are still rubber.

I will be going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up a 2g adjustment rod because I would really like to drive this car a bit before it gets unbearably cold but if I could get some suggestions on what I might have missed I am open to suggestions as I would prefer to do it right over fast.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Next time you get a chance, have someone push the clutch pedal to the floor while you lay under the car. With the clutch fork boot removed, watch the movement of the fork itself, specifically at the full stroke of the slave.

It is possible that your clutch for could be hitting the the bell housing. It can be a little difficult to see sometimes so make sure you have a good flash light. If the clutch fork is hitting the bell housing, then you are likely not fully disengaging the clutch, which would cause notchy shifting.

Slave cylinder rods don't just bend for the hell of it, something at some point was/still is binding

 

[Mifff]

It finally started warming up and I was able to get the transmission off. Here is what I found:

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I think the culprit might have been: 1. Input shaft had zero grease. The new clutch instructions said you really need to grease the input shaft or it could stick and 2. Its really hard to see and I didn't get a picture of it when I cleaned it out but the pivot fork was scored/gouged where the ball goes in. I think these two things might be the root of my issue. Does that seem plausible?

I picked up a new fork and clutch just to be on the safe side but I did want opinions on whether I need to machine the flywheel. To me it looks almost new.

 

[93AWDDSM]

one thing to remember - Any, ANY play in the Clutch pedal assembly is no good and will cause an engagement/disengagement issue.

eclipse/talon/lasers weren't sent out from the factory with "a little bit of clutch pedal assembly play" please make sure you have ZERO.

I went through this whole process before my '93 CW'd a week ago.

replaced my clutch pedal assembly so there was NO wear.
replaced master/slave
replaced TOB
replaced clutch kit ($100 stock)
replaced clutch fork
1 small washer shim behind pivot ball
flywheel resurfaced to correct Spec.

-once this was all done it was great, shifted smooth and the clutch fork sat slightly towards the driver side and had zero drag till rev limiter!

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I picked up a new fork and clutch just to be on the safe side but I did want opinions on whether I need to machine the flywheel. To me it looks almost new.

please take it and get the flywheel resurfaced.

 

[Mifff]

one thing to remember - Any, ANY play in the Clutch pedal assembly is no good and will cause an engagement/disengagement issue.

eclipse/talon/lasers weren't sent out from the factory with "a little bit of clutch pedal assembly play" please make sure you have ZERO.

I can appreciate this attitude and as you can see when I found the pedal play the assembly came apart and new parts went in. My friends like to say I go looking for things to make problems out of but I have replaced everything to the transmission with new parts because I hate having some wacky mystery variable that I always need to account for that is constantly making my car behave strangely.

replaced my clutch pedal assembly so there was NO wear.
replaced master/slave
replaced TOB
replaced clutch kit ($100 stock)
replaced clutch fork
1 small washer shim behind pivot ball
flywheel resurfaced to correct Spec.

I picked up a new fork and ball just to be on the safe side but I have replaced the assembly, rebuilt master/slave with OEM parts.

please take it and get the flywheel resurfaced.

Is this from an abundance of caution or does it look particularly nasty? The face just looks slightly discolored to me because the friction surface didn't move for a year.

 

[93AWDDSM]

do you know the depth spec. of the flywheel currently? if not best to take it off and get it resurfaced to the correct spec.

-are you going to shim your pivot ball?

EDIT: what year is your 1G? has to be 93-94 I see 7 bolts on the crank. check the crank end-play or EVEN just try to pull/push the flywheel towards the driver side if it moves that's a no no..

, one thing you might not like to hear is the "mystery variable" could be beginning signs of CW (mine were)

 

[Mifff]

do you know the depth spec. of the flywheel currently? if not best to take it off and get it resurfaced to the correct spec.

Good point.

-are you going to shim your pivot ball?

EDIT: what year is your 1G? has to be 93-94 I see 7 bolts on the crank.

I am under perhaps the incorrect impression that you don't need the shim the pivot if you have a brand new ball.

My 1g is a 93.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Good point.


I am under perhaps the incorrect impression that you don't need the shim the pivot if you have a brand new ball.

My 1g is a 93.

you shouldn't have to. I did just for piece of mind with a thin washer which put it leaning slight towards the driver side which was great for me.

please watch this video. this is my video that happened to me and I would like you to check as well since your a 1993 1G 7 bolt.

crankwalking my 1993 1g 7 bolt <- that is what caused most of my clutch issues , might as well check since your at the flywheel...

 

[Mifff]

Status Update/Close to this tread in case anyone else has the same problem: pivot ball was torn up and the clutch for was wallowed out. I replaced these two items and it shifted like a dream.

 

[Jdevil187]

Install a 2g slave cylinder!

Worked for us, we replaced everything with new parts and couldn't get rid of that last play in the pedal, swapped the slave cylinder to a 2g and bam! Problem solved

 

[bastarddsm]

No. The 2g slave has a larger bore than a 1g, and will decrease the TOB travel, and cause issues.

 

[Jdevil187]

It may have been only the rod that we used, but it worked for us. We replaced the clutch pedal assembly, throw out bearing, fork, ball, even tried a different pressure plate and no luck. Everything in was replaced with new parts and nothing, than we tried the 2g and bam!